4d34 turbo advice needed

[Spoony]

Thanks Dan, nice work on your conversion. It sound like you're still dropping turbo size to get more air early yeah? Big capacity difference with the 4.2 vs my 3.3. I've based my turbo sizing on what people do for the 2.8 and 3.2l 4x4's and TD04L's are the go there when the upgrade. I've only a 5cm housing but I need boost early, the 3.3l has nothing. Has a 14T front which should keep up ok with the rev's this is a bit bigger than a 13T on a forester/wrx 2.0 but the rear 5cm hopefully should still spool it up fine.

I'll have another look tomorrow but I couldn't for the life of me work out how cooler pipes would fit past. Having to remove the A/C condensor is a bit meh though. Have you found one that will fit?
I'm thinking of going a 550 x 180 x 63mm core horizontal behind the cab with some 6-7inch thermo's on it. Mount on the passenger side I think. Could be a bit loud though...............not that the old thing is in anyway quiet
What core size is you're front mount?

 

[Aussie Iron]

I'll see if I get time tomorrow to take some more pics and I'll measure the core on my intercooler. It is all fairly tight in there.
Removing the Aircon condenser was a no brainer for me as I do all my own aircon work anyway and yes the new one is in front of the passenger side front wheel as later Canters but not the same style condenser so it is larger capacity and mounted higher.
My next turbo is actually going to have a larger exhaust side back to TDO6 8cm and we are going to try the big16G compressor hoping that the bigger exhaust wheel will spin up earlier.

Dan.

 

[Spoony]

That's be awesome. I spent part of today climbing around under the cab, opening and closing it, measuring bits and trying to jam what hose I had through (bigger than the 2.5 planned though). Leaving the stock condenser in (assuming my 4 series is still the same as yours) certainly restricts the core size. No mater what the receiver drier would need relocating I think. Any A/C work i'd need a shop to do so need to factor that.
On the LHS I think a 2.5inch pipe can squeeze next to the radiator if the heater hoses are moved a bit, on the RHS the hose would have to go between and A/C hose and the hose out of the vac pump but forward of that it looks like the frame on the cab closes down to close.
It really seems easier just to mount it horizontal behind the cab, the core area won't be much different, will have at least 2 fans so constant air flow, and won't impact the A/C and radiator.

Interesting that you're going a bigger housing. I would have thought would reduce your ability to turn the 16G until high rpm.
This calculator seems to align pretty close to what a mate who'll be doing the fab bits I need for my setup has recommended.
https://www.dieselperformance.com/page/turbo-match-calculator

 

[Aussie Iron]

Intercooler measures 475x300x70mm. If I remember it came out of a FE82P? Anyway turbo is 50mm out so we ran a 50mm line to the intercooler (it was 50mm in) and intercooler out is 63mm so that is what I ran to the intake manifold where we fitted the elbow goes up from 63 to I believe it is 75mm, which is the intake size,

Some more pics.




Candy's intercooler is a universal one and it sits in front of her condenser but the lines from the turbo run in the same place as mine. Just a few more bends and an intercooler that fits between the rails.

All turbo calculator that we have worked with don't take into account that we are trying to get boost at just above idle.

Dan.

 

[SkiFreak]

So Dan... does the prop help with lateral stabilisation of the truck on those deep river crossings?

 

[Spoony]

Cheers for sharing those pics. It certainly is tight. It looks like the 6 series perhaps has more clearance than the 4 series. Some of the engine aux gear is in different spots too, probably more to do with the different engine.

I did a video up for the bloke who'll be helping me with this, his response was that he doesn't like horror films, haha

 

[Amesz00]

Try the borgwarner matchbot calculator. Much more in depth, has calculations for heat energy to give you an idea of potential spool.

http://www.turbos.bwauto.com/aftermarket/matchbot/index.html

 

[Aussie Iron]

So Dan... does the prop help with lateral stabilisation of the truck on those deep river crossings?

Not quite but good thought, we are actually loading for our next adventure (6 days and counting down) so the outboard and boat are already loaded .

You can take 75mm ally pipe and give it a squeeze in a press to oval it out so it can fit through a narrower gap. you also find it easier if you take heater hoses and wiring away first then run your airlines which are more fixed. The rest will then fit in the gaps. Aircon dryer will need to be moved but fitting to the tray is an option. I've also seen them laying down flat in front of the radiator and with electric fans.
It certainly is a tight fit but it would go.

Dan.

 

[BradK]

Hi Dan

After looking at the video, putting the intercooler at the rear seems heaps easier. Shorter pipes, less things in the way, safer from rocks, less interference to the A/C and engine radiator. It’s just like a top mount. A couple of fans and some sort of fresh air duct from underneath for the highway?

Cheers

Brad

 

[Spoony]

Cheers Dan, it certainly is a tricky one, who'd have thought such a big vehicle (vs a car) would be so tricky in comparison. Going 2.25inch pipework would make more sense if front mounting, even that is over kill really for the power output.

Brad, yeah that was my thinking, no need to worry about extra heat loading on the engine and A/C system from the IC heat and reduce flow, plus easier install and simple plumbing. Doesn't mater if it's 2.5inch pipe work (more common I think) then either. The tricky part is finding 6 inch 24v thermo fans, 7 inch yes, but will be too wide. At worse 6inch 12v with some step down units ?

 

[Spoony]

A quick one, where does your turbo oil drain return feed back into the engine? I don't have my truck at the moment but can't remember seeing a provision for it. 4D31's did come in turbo so there must be something. I figure the return feed from the vacuum pump off the back of the alternator could probably be used, should be lower than the turbo on stock manifold.

 

[canter tourer]

A good link below I've used for my turbo install, just modified to suit my engine, I'm going with the plug in the sump for ease of installation.
Not sure that there's enough fall to use the vac pump drain?

http://www.safarisnorkel.com/turbo/guides/sthzj70n/sthzj70n_guide.html

Or this is how a mate did his, just punched a hole and welded it straight to the sump.
Dave.

 

[Spoony]

Cheers for the link. Seems simple enough. Punching and tapping carefully should be ok...ish.

Re using vac pump return I wouldn't think much inital fall would be needed as the fall continues/increases within the block/sump. As long as it's lower should be ok.

 

[canter tourer]

I must be blind, I'm looking for the fuel screw on the 4d34 non electronic pump so i can start having a crack at getting more grunt out of the turbo, can someone point me in the right direction? and when found, does it turn clockwise or anticlockwise to advance or decrease the fuel?
Thanks in advance..
Dave

 

[Aussie Iron]

Mine (4D33) is on the back of the pump up towards the top. It has a safety cap over it that needs to be pried off, then 10mm spanner on lock nut and allen key to screw the centre screw in. I went 1.5 turns.

This is on mine,
Dan.