4d34 turbo advice needed

[canter tourer]

Thats what i was going to have a go at, i can weld (not trade qualified though haha) but just wanted to know how you got it started - did you just use an exhaust gasket as template to cut flange and then just weld pipes on to that or did you start with a cut down stock manifold?
Any pics ?

I uaed the original manifold and clamped it to 12mm plate, scribed the mounting holes and measured scribed etc the outlets with help of exhaust gasket, they are individual gaskets per cylinder so not as easy as a complete gasket to do a template, then chain drilled it out and cleaned it up with a file and burr. I dont know CAD and old school worked for me, if a bit tedious...then welded the bends and ground shaped etc to suit, then had both faces milled at the end as it still warped even though it was 12 mm thick flanges and i clamped them when welding.
Dave.

 

[SkiFreak]

There's absolutely nothing wrong with "old school" methods, but CAD and laser cutting is definitely easier and less time consuming.
Having used both methods for many different projects, I speak with first hand experience.

 

[Spoony]

Hey guys, hijacking this very helpful thread, turbo is going on my 4D31 this weekend and wondered if anyone could point out the fuel screw for me please. I'm guessing it's the one on the top with lock nut and wired?
Also I figure the pumps on your originally non turbos don't have any boost compensation ability either, not really an issue the?
Cheers Dan

 

[Fugly]

That is the one.....
Second pic......

 

[canter tourer]

Agreed second pic is it. No boost compensation, its old school all the way. I think it was 10mm spanner, undo the end nut and make sure the washer/ seal doesnt get lost, then crack the inner nut just a little to allow you to turn the fuel screw with I think was 3mm allen key, retighten the lock nut and replace the outer nut. I've left mine at 1 3/4 turns in and it goes well, but still yet to have it tuned properly, as i know theres more available as it still is very safe on the pyro temp wise. Have you fitted one to your manifold? pyro that is....

Dave

 

[Spoony]

Thanks guys, I thought it was that one.
I have a pyro and guage installed ready go go, and boost guage to. On the A Pillar non the less, looks pretty ricerboy spec for an old FG434 haha

 

[canter tourer]

Very nicely placed, now 10% tuffer
Interested to hear your thoughts (and some pics of your install) once you add some fuel and crank the boost, enjoy the transformation.
Dave

 

[Spoony]

Cheers Dave, here's to hopefully holding speed on a more than 1deg inclinem
The wastegate is set to 12psi so will run with that at first. Is 1990 truck, don't wanna kill it just yet.

 

[Spoony]

Update on the 3.3l 4D31 FG434 turbo project:

Turbo conversion is done, we worked big time for a massive weekend effort.
Fitting turbo including customising manifold + flange, customised turbo outlet, all associated fittings, all cooler and intake piping, dump and exhaust, fitting of larger 3inch exhaust brake etc etc.

Things are really tight on the 434 which gave us plenty of challenges.

A few pics are attached.

We turned the fuel screw 1.5 turns, it'll soot with a hit form idle (neutral) and will soot a tiny bit at revs when given a stab (neutral) but other than that it's clean.
Max boost is about 14psi peak.

It wasn't a hot day nor evening for it's maiden 250km drive home straight after been put back together (was a tad nervous).
Heat does seem to be an issue though, not engine water temps but EGTs and the cooler struggles. The idea to put it between the body and cab with fans probably not the best.
It wasn't until test driving and sticking ones hand out the window and around one can feel just how hot the air is back there. The camper body has only an arm thickness width gap and the front wall then steps back, so has a lip on the front edge each side and the top. I think hot air just gets trapped. The body was moved back a bit at one stage, so maybe a heat issue.

EGT's are directly behind the turbo.
EGTs at constant are about 300DegC (572f) , at 90km/hr (55ish mph) and 2800rpm they are up to 320.
On a hill the push up to 400DegC (752f) and would creep up more but I've backed off to be safe

What is acceptable EGT's on these old motors? Can it go to 500c safely?

Useful boost you can feel pulling comes on about about 1300-1400rpm. One can drive it and short shift at just past two and keep accelerating up hills and with traffic(ish).
A previous hill that saw a shift back to 2nd could be hit from 1300rpm in 3rd and accelerate up the hill.

I am a bit concerned about the top end though, at cruise speed of 90km/hr at 2800rpm it holds about 11psi which seems fine, but after 2500rpm power does seem to taper off a bit, well probably more torque than power?
I'm hoping the TD04L isn't too small, the bottom end is great and I think is something that'll be needed navigating the bush.
(TD04L 14Tcomp 5cm rear, remember this is just a 3.3l not a 4.2 etc)

I think a fair part of it is the climbing temps especially at those speeds/rpm/boost, and largely the intake temp as the cooler cooks.

Is there any further adjustments to fueling one can do? Or a diesel shop? I'm thinking of trying to either get air to flow out from behind the cab and getting cooler working or maybe moving cooler. Up to the camper roof maybe
I figure if I can get those temps to stay down, get it setup properly (if possible) it should be pretty good all round.

The cool thing is the 'jap gap' (3rd to 4th) is basically non existent now, it just drops rpm and keeps pulling, saves me reving to 3100rpm on any sort of incline.


I'll have to start my own build thread, there's just lots of good info on this.

 

[Aussie Iron]

Sounding fairly good. Get that intercooler into cold air is what I would look at but as you lengthen pipe work you get more lag. It's not a speed machine anyway so probably not a real problem. I.d be looking at putting it in front of the radiator, yes it is a tight fit but certainly possible even with the aircon condenser in place.
Temp sounds all right and being taken post turbo. I'm no expert on temps but 500°C I think would be safe.

Good to see it done,
Dan.

 

[Amesz00]

Sounds pretty good. Fueling sounds about spot on. First thing I'd look at is getting the cooler working properly. Hot air going over the motor goes straight up behind the cab (as a low pressure zone) so it's not real good for a cooler. I definitely would not want to run charge piping to the roof and back. Nah it's no speed machine but that's exactly why you want quickest boost response possible. Longer charge piping also induces heaps more drag. Like dan said, try get it to the front of the truck. If not and there's nowhere else good to put it maybe look at a liquid to air? Or you can potentially keep it behind the cab but make up an Ali intake over the cab, feeding ducting that runs directly over the core? Then a electric fan for slow work.

If you want it to run as good as it can then for sure take it to a diesel tuner, but there's no use doing that till you've got the cooler sorted out.
500 post turbo should be safe enough

 

[Spoony]

Cheers guys, yeah don't want to introduce more lag (not that it's got that now) on the little 3.3, so roof mount probably not a good idea then. I should have done some temp testing prior, but It is what it is now so will work with it.
Going forward is probably tricky due to the turbo outlet (now customised due to lack of room). I could maybe duct from the roof and mount the fans under and add a 3rd. They 'apparently' are 1050cfm each so that's 3150cfm with 3. With fresh air is that enough ? Though hot air rises so ducting from the bottom up makes more sense, the lack of room makes it hard though. The space everwhere seems less than the 6 series, just routing through the water lines and other things was tight, never mind cooler hoses. Water to Air is an option I have considered.
If I leave it where it is, duct air and also add a water spray system that might be enough.

Glad I was playing it safe with the EGT's, what sort of temps do you guys get a low speed cruise, at highway cruise, at idle and during a climb (before or after turbo too), just for a guide and to see if my gauge is in the ball park.
A diesel mechanic friend in the army said 600 max, 550c for no more than 5min.

 

[kerry]

When I used to drive a Wanderlodge bus with a Cat 3208 with a retrofitted turbo and no oil squirters on the pistons, I'd get nervous if the EGT's got above about 1100F. If memory serves me right, the melting point of the pistons was around 1250f. I generally tried to keep the EGT's no higher than 900f. In my very limited experience I'd say you are perfectly fine and could even go a little hotter.

 

[canter tourer]

Been a while since I've done anything with the turbo setup on mine. It has been running fine but seemed to choke out from about 3000rpm onward and boost would drop off dramatically, almost like hitting a wall.

Now i have never had it tuned professionally and have been running it pretty much as i first set it. Further web reading suggested a 3" exhaust is the go on this size engine.

Given my intention at the start was to upgrade from the standard 2 1/4" exhaust it was about time i did something to see if it would improve things, whats 2 years between tasks

So the past 2 days have been spent doing just that, now it goes from 2 1/2" at the turbo outlet, to 3" all the way through with a straight through muffler in the middle.

Did it make any improvement? In a word, transformed. Boost is coming on much earlier, now pulling strong and peaking at 15psi, up from 12-13 before, the wall has moved further up the rev range to about 3300-3400rpm and even then boost drop off is barely there which is perfect given redline is 3500rpm anyway.

It is just better to drive and has a noticable increase in 'pull' from idle to redline, i should have done it from the start, but happy i have finally gotten around to it now total cost $680 including brand new 3" exhaust brake and obviously my time to fab it all up

Dave

 

[canter tourer]

For anyone interested in the parts list I've attached the invoice, the only part i ordered and didn't end up needing was the 'donut' pipe and i needed one additional exhaust clamp. I also should have ordered 2 of the 90 degree pipes and not the 45 degree pipe, but ive made it work anyway, exhaust exits just in front of rear wheel.

The exhaust brake p/n was T06-3T0601 off a FM 515 mitsubishi, $353.33 inc GST from HIM spares, apparently they've gone up a fair whack since all the canter owners are upgrading their exhausts to 3" so they've jacked the price.

Dave.