54" Roof Mounted LED Light Bar BLUNDER - Why I went with a hidden LED light bar

rayra

Expedition Leader
i have a 40" bar under my roof rack. its approximately above my head in my seated position so the roof blocks the glare and still gets plenty of light down the road. zero wind noise

IMG_4652_zps523344ac.jpg

'You, Sir, are a Man of Science.'


I'm planning to put a 44" between the forward footings of my Z71 roof rack. Might actually be TOO far back. We shall see.
And planning to fab a front shield that pivots down and acts as a lower glare shield. The mount will be right behind and above the trailing edge of my sunroof. Easy to reach up and unmask the light bar.
 
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kojackJKU

Autism Family Travellers!
That reminds me... last winter I saw a Wrangler Unlimited, totally decked out with an exoskeleton rack, huge lift, monster mud tires, winches, bumpers, fenders, hi-lifts, All of it done to the 9's. Feeling his way down the road in heavy-ish snow on the expressway at 4mph with not one, but TWO 48" led bars, one on the rack, one on the Hood, blasting ahead. As I came up behind him, I was blinded by the glare coming back off the snow. Finally was able to pass him. As I passed, I looked over, and he had SUNGLASSES on to fight the glare. Once I was passed, I had to move all my mirrors so as not to be blinded from behind. Once my eyes adjusted back, I was able to comfortably do 35 MPH with my low beams and yellow halogen fogs leading the way.

Yep. I have a set of hella 450 yellow fogs with 100w bulbs in them. Fantastic in rain, fog and snow. You would think 100w would be to much, but its not. It gives the light enough punch to cut through the snow and fog, where as with the 55w bulbs in there, the stock fogs would over power them. Now it just punches through. I would never attempt my HID hellas in snow, its a nightmare.
 

kojackJKU

Autism Family Travellers!
'You, Sir, are a Man of Science.'


I'm planning to put a 44" between the forward footings of my Z71 roof rack. Might actually be TOO far back. We shall see.
And planning to fab a front shield that pivots down and acts as a lower glare shield. The mount will be right behind and above the trailing edge of my sunroof. Easy to reach up and unmask the light bar.

have a look at how far back a roof rack on an expedition EL is, my bro has his bar mounted back there, so I think your safe.
 

Highway Camper

New member
The light bars need a flip down shield that would protect the bar from bugs and objects when not in use and act as a light shield for the hood when lowered.
 

rayra

Expedition Leader
That's what I've been doodling. Trying to figure out a sort of angle-iron shape that pivots on the end mounting bolts that will swing clear and down, but not so far far down that it doesn't also act as a low-side glare shield. Something with enough friction that it stays where it's put. I really want the light covered until I'm using it, don't need the ticket, don't need people thinking my black Suburban is something it isn't (and drivign even slower in front of me)


roofrackplotmedium_zpsrqd7ht6i.jpg
 

bigwapitijohnny

Adventurer
My LEDs are mounted on...

I have two places where my bars are mounted. The fairing on the roof rack and in between the hoop of my Expedition One bumper...
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I have noticed a definitive howl when my light bar above is misaligned, but I have not had any issues since I adjusted it. There is some glare off the hood, however, since it is set further back, it is not a problem. Here is an example of the light bar day and night. Tree line is about 150 yards away. One caveat, I had two Firelyts when these pictures were taken. I have since replaced them with a 30" LED light bar...
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As you can see, roof glare is pretty bad, but the hood glare is manageable. I have since put a matte black hood graphic to address hood glare...It's all good now.
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Hope this helps.
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Regards,
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BWJ
 
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M35A2

Tinkerer
I know LED lighting is the future (will get better, cheaper, and more prevalent).

However, while I use LEDS for low-power applications like dash and interior lights I am a recidivist on using them for high-power lighting.

I use auxiliary light housings that accept old-fashioned sealed beam bulbs. A few H3, but mostly sealed beam.

Why? Inexpensive, universally available, decent output, excellent color, and good patterns.
 

kojackJKU

Autism Family Travellers!
having a big reflector for light is the only way to get long range lighting. I have not seen a LED bar out distance my HIDs. Or a 130w halogen for that matter. There are the light cannons, they could do it. I never saw them personally. And now the new IPF which look pretty good too. I am very reluctant to change anything on my rig for lighting as it works great together.
 

anickode

Adventurer
I use auxiliary light housings that accept old-fashioned sealed beam bulbs.

Yup, nothing beats a silvered glass reflector. I also really prefer a beam pattern that's achieved through a refracting lens instead of a free form reflector. Don't know why. "They" say free form reflectors are better, but my eyes say otherwise.

Sealed beams are also totally submersible, and in fact are the industry standard for lighting pools, ponds, fountains, etc. Never have to worry about water intrusion, and you don't have to rely on seals and gaskets. I've had a set of hella 500s and a set of Hella 1000s ruined when water crept in around the bulb and corroded the reflector. No matter what I tried, I couldn't get them dry inside. No worry with a sealed beam.
 

kojackJKU

Autism Family Travellers!
Yup, nothing beats a silvered glass reflector. I also really prefer a beam pattern that's achieved through a refracting lens instead of a free form reflector. Don't know why. "They" say free form reflectors are better, but my eyes say otherwise.

Sealed beams are also totally submersible, and in fact are the industry standard for lighting pools, ponds, fountains, etc. Never have to worry about water intrusion, and you don't have to rely on seals and gaskets. I've had a set of hella 500s and a set of Hella 1000s ruined when water crept in around the bulb and corroded the reflector. No matter what I tried, I couldn't get them dry inside. No worry with a sealed beam.

I agree with the lens comments as well. I never had any water issues with my 500s.
 

anickode

Adventurer
No, the lens and reflector were bonded together like a sealed beam unit, and held into the housing with screw-on plastic tabs top and bottom. The H3 bulb was held in with a spring clip as they usually are, but no gasket or seal or cap over the bulb. Once water got in through the bulb, there was no way for it to get out, due to the shape of the FF reflector. I ended up drilling a tiny hole in the bottom of the reflector to drain it, but the damage was done... over the next couple months, the reflectors turned gray and cloudy.
 

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