5v lighting.. NiCd power, small solar panels, and LED's.. anyone else doing this?

[calicamper]

In box on front trailer plate.


Led strip sewn into the privacy flap in the tent. Switch is down at the bottom all of it sewn in.

I used small water resistant automotive style two prong connectors. I simply plug them into the power feed from the box when we set up. I dont leave the box lid locked tite given I pass the power feeds out of the open lid when in use. When in road mode the power leads are stowed in the box and the lid is locked down tight. The controller is tipped slightly angled up in the box so I can read the LCD read out, shows, battery status, charge status, float, flood etc, shows power load off the load side, and Solar generation volts and amps. The output side of the controller can be set to on 24/7 or turned off or et to go on at dusk etc. Its use is typically in a off grid parking lot lighting box. It also has temp shut off if the battery box gets too hot, so mounting close to the battery is ideal. Lots of features in a little cheap controller. Mine is max 20amps in or out. They make a 30amp in or out model also.

 

[dman93]

Lots of good ideas here but not so much on 12v vs 5v. It does seem that 5v/USB output batteries are cost effective considering their compact packaging and integrated quick disconnect input and output connections (USB). They can be used for lighting, device power/charging etc. it seems this is what the OP was interested and it makes sense to me. I found "USB" lights on flexible stalks at IKEA for about $2 a few years ago and bought a handful ; they're very useful and the light+stalk+connector pre-assembled at this price was a great value compared to any DIY solution. Similarly, USB flashlights are common now, and again these USB power packs are compatible.

 

[plh]

Lots of good ideas here but not so much on 12v vs 5v. It does seem that 5v/USB output batteries are cost effective considering their compact packaging and integrated quick disconnect input and output connections (USB). They can be used for lighting, device power/charging etc. it seems this is what the OP was interested and it makes sense to me. I found "USB" lights on flexible stalks at IKEA for about $2 a few years ago and bought a handful ; they're very useful and the light+stalk+connector pre-assembled at this price was a great value compared to any DIY solution. Similarly, USB flashlights are common now, and again these USB power packs are compatible.

I use both 12V and 5V solar. Lighting is all on 5V (and phone charging) Fridge is on 12V. My 12V solar controller also has 5V USB port out that seams to run my lights and charge my phone just fine also. So basically if I don't bring the fridge I stick to 5V stuff.

 

[Itsavanman]

well I'm glad there's a few folks screwing around with 5v stuff.. I decided to stick with 5v as its only lights, im still under $150 for the whole project and well under the weight of a lead acid battery, but I still need wire, switches, and a few assorted pieces, all the important gizmos are bought.. there all white cold lights, but I am going to try and tint the lenses goldish to hopefully warm it up a bit...

 

[Itsavanman]

so been a busy bee for the last month or so, can't believe its almost camping / riding season here in the northeast! time flies when your working your can off... I wanted these things to be sealed for durability, but also serviceable in case I knock one off going to set up. I used Grote "trailer porch" lights (PN 61641) removed the 19th century incandescent 1156 bulb and bracket. and installed some 5v piranha 5v LED boards.

there is going to be a total of 4 lights, 2 on each end, so we can unload the atv's at night, and one on the front, to illuminate the awning area. Since I'm using 2 7800 mah allstart battery packs to run this I had to configure those as well, I wanted to bury the battery charge controllers, but because they have this nice indicator system for charging and charge remaining, I decided to put both charge controllers in one box, which with 2 main power switches, will also serve as the main on box. I also didn't want a bunch of boxes cluttering up the wall, so after some "careful" cutting, I had both controllers inside one case.

basically, since the board doesn't have enough output to charge 2 sets of battery's is also why I had to use them both, now that leaves the batteries, and the USB step up converter for solar. basically to bump up to 5v when solar panel output drops below 5v. which since I had run out of room inside the original case, had to live with the batteries.

now i just need to build the solar panel frame, they make nice panel holders on eBay, but I'm too cheap for that. so the plan is to find an aluminum picture frame that's the right size for a few dollars, back it with some abs plastic, and glue the panels to that.