95 2 Door Tahoe SAS project

[wrench-head]

It was the best swap I have done in a long time. It was 2 days total minus exhaust and new driveshaft. The exhaust has been a pain though. I went with a donut style connection at the shorty headers and they do nothing but leak and fall into my cats. I am about to just order some more long tubes with the flat flange. Ironically i have never had them leak on me like everyone else. These donuts are killing my patience. Next is the new front 60 and the new 14 bolt rear. Both are geared at 4.88 with ARBs. That will kill the big things on my list then just smaller stuff. Possible some suspension updates, but I'm trying to stay with leaf springs even though I have this overpowering urge to do a link and coil front end. Biggest concern is that if I get the geometry a little off the trucks awesome driveability will be lost. Plus complexity and maintenance go through the roof. I know what is the smartest path, but I'm really stupid on the leave well enough alone parts.

-Alex

 

[wrench-head]

1K on new engine

Well I have put just over a thousand miles on the new drivetrain and it is very nice. The power from the 489 is great, cruising is a breeze and grades are no problem. The rebuilt NV4500 is silent and very smooth. The doubler is hooked up and the full low range is kind of nuts with granny gear. So far very happy with the transplant. I have been fighting power steering pump issues, but nothing serious enough to keep it off the road. I do have a PTO cover leaking on the 205 as well. That is the sum of my issues.

The dana 60 I built over a year ago will go in soon I hope with the new 14 bolt. I grafted late model disc brakes onto the 14 bolt to keep the ebrake functional. After this I am building a rear bumper with a tire carrier. So far no iminent plans on suspension changes but I'm dying to link the front, but don't want to ruin a perfectly good truck.

The only thing I really want to accomplish this year is to get out and go camping. I get so wrapped up in building the thing that I lose all time to enjoy using it.

Well that is it for now, any questions let me know.

-Alex

 

[wrench-head]

Well just crossed the mountains with the new motor this past weekend and she did great on all the passes. It averaged about 14 MPG which isn't great, but impressive for what it is. I calculated that with GPS since the Speedo is close but not dead on.

-Alex

 

[TheOtherSide]

Wow... nice engine swap!! Looks show-clean under that hood!! Nice work!

 

[rabbiporkchop]

your sway bar

Do you have part numbers for all your sway bar components? My 95 Tahoe needs one, and I figured I could just buy the same parts you used.

 

[rabbiporkchop]

your sway bar components

Actually, sway bar length and diameter plus arm length would be nice to know also. My Tahoe is missing the factory sway bar mounting location, so mine will have to be fabricated from scratch.
I am also curious how your Tahoe handles around corners. Mine kinda sucks without a sway bar.

 

[rabbiporkchop]

I guess all I need is sway bar length and arm length.

 

[Tiki]

Inspirational build. I've seen pictures of this Tahoe floating around the internet... glad to finally find your project thread! Let me know if you ever need someone to take it off your hands

 

[wrench-head]

The sway bar is a 39" from speedway engineering. The arms are their bent steel arms you cut to length. The bar is 1 1/4 solid. You can find most of the mounting parts and such from them.

As far as handling around corners the thing has next to no lean. The big solid bar does it's job especially with only 13" long arms. The bad is it will not flex with it on. I have contemplated going to a softer rate bar (i.e. smaller diameter) to allow flex and not have to be disconnected. On the street it is amazing connected, but spongy with out it and leans. It will lean offroad too, which is why I'd like to find a softer bar that I can leave on 100% to help offroad stability as well. Ideally I could use two softer bars, one front and rear to balance the truck and keep the stability.

In short if you don't mind disconnecting a bar, the 1 1/4 will give you everything you want on the street. The kit from offroad unlimited is the same bar and arms FYI. Theres is meant to tie into the spring plates like mine is. Anything else let me know.

-Alex

 

[darrenf]

I just had to register and post what a great job you're doing and what a nice looking rig. Although, it is a little like looking in the mirror.

 

[chilliwak]

You certainly have built a very nice sas Tahoe :Wow1:Wrench-head! Still curious to know about your leaf spring choice for the front and rear. As far as I can see the front springs have 10 leafs, and the rears have 5 or maybe 6? Can you tell me about the considerations involved for your choice? I am really curious to hear about how the truck handles, as I will be upgrading front springs at some point too. Congrats on some very nicely done work!:drool:

 

[boellis87]

Resist the urge my friend. That thing is perfect the way it is. If it handles and rides the way you want it, then just stick with the leafs. The simplicity and low maintenance aren't worth trading for the wow factor of links/coils. The slight improvements in ride and off-road performance take a lot more tuning to achieve and the way your rig flexes, I'm not sure there would be all that much improvement anyway. Spend that money on something else. If you ever wanna sell...

 

[timsbroncs]

Axels for the swap

I am also in CO and I was curious where you sourced your axels for the swap. I have a 1998 K1500 and I am planning a SAS.
Tim

 

[Northman]

Wow !! What a great Truck !! :drool:

 

[tip]

AWESOME build!!!

Makes me miss my '99!