97 E350 Crestline Ambo Build/Mod
- Thread starter Bikersmurf
- Start date
Bikersmurf
Expedition Leader
As far as I can tell. It started out like a hitch similar to one of these:
https://www.etrailer.com/question-133722.html
https://www.rcpw.com/truck-accessories/class-5-hitch-receivers/1801050.html
The plus side is that they seem to be an overkill hitch... the down side is that they require someone with welding skill.
Bikersmurf
Expedition Leader
Picked up a set of v-bar tire chains. Looks like they were never used.
They were for 235/85R16 tires... I shortened them with the angle grinder to fit 225/75R16. They'll only only chain up the outer dual, but they'll add about an inch to the tire height so they'll still bite into the ice.
They were for 235/85R16 tires... I shortened them with the angle grinder to fit 225/75R16. They'll only only chain up the outer dual, but they'll add about an inch to the tire height so they'll still bite into the ice.
Bikersmurf
Expedition Leader
Chain Pics
They'll need to be tightened up a bit more, but even as is they'd sure help on ice.
Two options I'm considering:
1) move a cross chain so I can shorten it up another link on the side chains.
2) shorten all of the cross chains by one link.
Thoughts?
They'll need to be tightened up a bit more, but even as is they'd sure help on ice.
Two options I'm considering:
1) move a cross chain so I can shorten it up another link on the side chains.
2) shorten all of the cross chains by one link.
Thoughts?
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Bikersmurf
Expedition Leader
I found I was able to shorten the inner side one more link without moving the cross chain. I've not driven yet (since no sow), but it seems the extra link will be enough. I'd rather not shorten further since I want some leeway for a slightly larger 225/75R16 once these are worn down. The fronts are slightly taller even though they share the same specs.
Bikersmurf
Expedition Leader
Time for a routine oil change... no problems with the oil.
The air filters, however, were black and so plugged that the Turbo was sucking them from flat to being concave. So, don't forget to check your air filters.
The air filters, however, were black and so plugged that the Turbo was sucking them from flat to being concave. So, don't forget to check your air filters.
Bikersmurf
Expedition Leader
7610 Blue Sea ACR Arrived today. Online Supplier had it on Sale so I got it for $107 (CAD) shipped to my door (about $80 USD).
https://ca.binnacle.com/product_info.php?products_id=6760 (Sale is Over now).
It's a bit on the lighter side for a 215 amp alternator. At 120 Amps it should be plenty to charge/protect the starting batteries. It is also rated for 210 Amps for 5 minutes which is the longest I've seen the Alternator putting 200 Amps out for... and thats for both banks (not just the starting batteries).
Now Seeing 14.5 to 15.0 V at the battery most of the time vs 14.0-14.6. With the Diode Isolator the batteries haven't been getting enough juice to get fully charged. I'm hoping they'll now last longer than 12-18 months... been getting tired of replacing them even though it has been under warranty.
https://ca.binnacle.com/product_info.php?products_id=6760 (Sale is Over now).
It's a bit on the lighter side for a 215 amp alternator. At 120 Amps it should be plenty to charge/protect the starting batteries. It is also rated for 210 Amps for 5 minutes which is the longest I've seen the Alternator putting 200 Amps out for... and thats for both banks (not just the starting batteries).
Now Seeing 14.5 to 15.0 V at the battery most of the time vs 14.0-14.6. With the Diode Isolator the batteries haven't been getting enough juice to get fully charged. I'm hoping they'll now last longer than 12-18 months... been getting tired of replacing them even though it has been under warranty.
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Bikersmurf
Expedition Leader
Hindsight being 20-20, I should've gone with the 7620.
The 7610 will be adequate, but Voltage Regulator doesn't sense the Alternator output until the ACR closes. This leads to a momentary spike up to 15.2 V which shuts down the Inverter.
Long story short, the problem is solved by moving the Alternator output to the Starting bank.
The 7610 will be adequate, but Voltage Regulator doesn't sense the Alternator output until the ACR closes. This leads to a momentary spike up to 15.2 V which shuts down the Inverter.
Long story short, the problem is solved by moving the Alternator output to the Starting bank.
Bikersmurf
Expedition Leader
Returned the latest pair of batteries to Costco. This time they gave me grief that their batteries don't last. It occurs to me that I've never had so many problems with batteries before. It makes me think Kirkland batteries aren't made to the same standards as their Interstate counterparts sold south of the border.
In my 40, the 25+ year old, '89 Caprice Classic, 120A 'core' alternator I bought from a wrecker for $50 will keep a cheap battery alive for 8+ years... even if I rarely start the truck.... in fact I have left if for 6 months, started the high compression 350, then ran the battery flat by leaving the lights on for 3 hours, and then have enough juice left to start it again. It'll last 8+ years.
In contrast the Kirkland batteries x4, starting from new Mitsubishi 215A alternator, 14.1-14.6v running, 13.8v max shore 'float' charger, plugged in every night, never killed, dual batteries minimum have lasted a maximum of 18 months... and the norm of about 13 months before they fail to perform as they should.
Are they just crappy batteries? Is it because it's a 7.3? Thoughts or suggestions?
In my 40, the 25+ year old, '89 Caprice Classic, 120A 'core' alternator I bought from a wrecker for $50 will keep a cheap battery alive for 8+ years... even if I rarely start the truck.... in fact I have left if for 6 months, started the high compression 350, then ran the battery flat by leaving the lights on for 3 hours, and then have enough juice left to start it again. It'll last 8+ years.
In contrast the Kirkland batteries x4, starting from new Mitsubishi 215A alternator, 14.1-14.6v running, 13.8v max shore 'float' charger, plugged in every night, never killed, dual batteries minimum have lasted a maximum of 18 months... and the norm of about 13 months before they fail to perform as they should.
Are they just crappy batteries? Is it because it's a 7.3? Thoughts or suggestions?
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Bikersmurf
Expedition Leader
They aren't branded Interstate. I've had excellent results from Interstate.
From a thread I have in the electrical forum, the conclusion is pointing towards the diode isolator not allowing high enough voltage through. Having switched to an ACR now will help. I've also picked up a 3 stage charger to ensure they reach 100% regularly.
I'm sure better charging will help. Unfortunately it's something that will take a long time to test if it solves the issue. If they still don't last, I'll switch to a different brand. The 3 year free replacement Warranty is hard to beat... until they refuse to honour the warranty. If they try, they'll could loose all my business... which wouldn't make their manager happy since we buy most of our groceries and supplies for all our offices there.
From a thread I have in the electrical forum, the conclusion is pointing towards the diode isolator not allowing high enough voltage through. Having switched to an ACR now will help. I've also picked up a 3 stage charger to ensure they reach 100% regularly.
I'm sure better charging will help. Unfortunately it's something that will take a long time to test if it solves the issue. If they still don't last, I'll switch to a different brand. The 3 year free replacement Warranty is hard to beat... until they refuse to honour the warranty. If they try, they'll could loose all my business... which wouldn't make their manager happy since we buy most of our groceries and supplies for all our offices there.
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Mat Mobile
Adventurer
Costco has a policy of always having a product that is unique. It can be as simple as the color or adding bonus stuff. With a battery, there's not much to change so it's quite possible they are compromising on quality to offer a lower cost product.
Personally, I always go with Motomaster Eliminators from good old Canadian Tire and I've never had to change one. I always end up selling the car/truck before the battery dies on me.
Personally, I always go with Motomaster Eliminators from good old Canadian Tire and I've never had to change one. I always end up selling the car/truck before the battery dies on me.
Bikersmurf
Expedition Leader
I've had to replace Motomaster Eliminators... but I don't like to sell my rigs. I've had my 40 for almost 27 years,
I'm finding that the 7610 ACR is very worthwhile. Even plugging in every night the batteries were never getting to full charge. The house charger (converter) was designed to ensure the batteries didn't cook... but they also never fully charged. Now having 14.5 when running has meant that when I park, the batteries are starting at 100%.
So... If you're considering a relay type isolator, don't wait any longer, Just do it.
I'm finding that the 7610 ACR is very worthwhile. Even plugging in every night the batteries were never getting to full charge. The house charger (converter) was designed to ensure the batteries didn't cook... but they also never fully charged. Now having 14.5 when running has meant that when I park, the batteries are starting at 100%.
So... If you're considering a relay type isolator, don't wait any longer, Just do it.
Bikersmurf
Expedition Leader
If anyone has these black grommet lights they'll know how poorly they were designed. Firstly I cut an aluminum dollar store spray bottle down the middle to make a reflector. Then I've found extra bright LED 1156 bulbs that sold in a pack of 4. Lastly I replaced the flasher, because I found the voltage coming through it dropped too much when the hazards were on. Previously I'd always thought flasher units either worked or didn't... LEDs seem a bit pickier.
Its been overcast so I've not seen them in full sun... but so far they look promising. The spray bottles took a few minutes to cut up... but $6 to improve 8 lights was worthwhile. At first the LEDs wouldn't work for hazards until I'd put in all 4, that's when I concluded the relay in the flasher couldn't handle the full load of the incandescent bulbs without voltage drop... bringing the LEDs in the circuit below their minimum voltage. The flasher worked once all 4 LEDs were in, but I still replaced the flasher for good measure.
Its been overcast so I've not seen them in full sun... but so far they look promising. The spray bottles took a few minutes to cut up... but $6 to improve 8 lights was worthwhile. At first the LEDs wouldn't work for hazards until I'd put in all 4, that's when I concluded the relay in the flasher couldn't handle the full load of the incandescent bulbs without voltage drop... bringing the LEDs in the circuit below their minimum voltage. The flasher worked once all 4 LEDs were in, but I still replaced the flasher for good measure.
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Bikersmurf
Expedition Leader
Bought some Red 1157 LEDs from Amazon... quality was good. Running lights worked well... but it turns out I’ve not had brake lights for a while.
Traced some wires and found the lights worked if I connected 12+ to th Brake circuit of the box. Also found the brake switch and fuse 11 were good. Pulled apart the dash and found a stray wire #122 not connected to the OEM brake circuit. Spliced them back together and the Brake lights are now working well.