i have a 4x4 99 burb for a family ride. its a 5.7 vortec with 269k on the vehicle. i di replace the motor about three months ago. if i were going to built it for basic trailing id do a 2 inch suspension lift and a 2 inch body lift. with 285's. it should come with a factory rear locker, mine did. if it were not for the wife not being on board with it id built this for sure. oh and id add a winch. but even stock this thing has surprised me several time in what it was capable of. 4lo and let it crawl. maybe if i wheeled it more i would consider a front locker.
99 Suburban Slow Build
- Thread starter jimed43
- Start date
Buliwyf
Viking with a Hammer
Nice find!
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Fresh battery/starter/alternator is what I do to all used trucks I buy. I just have them rebuilt. Mod's: I'd just remove the running boards. Then a mild 2" lift kit for 285/75 r17 size tires. Paint the wheels gloss matte black. Then have a body shop remove the rubber body stuff next time you have it in for paint or ding repair.
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Fresh battery/starter/alternator is what I do to all used trucks I buy. I just have them rebuilt. Mod's: I'd just remove the running boards. Then a mild 2" lift kit for 285/75 r17 size tires. Paint the wheels gloss matte black. Then have a body shop remove the rubber body stuff next time you have it in for paint or ding repair.
98dango
Expedition Leader
It's 2" of your choice there is no great way to lift 2" and 285 on the proper wheel will fit with out a lift. Usually a torsion bar crank will get you level. Different keys allow you to go past level. Many ppl don't like this method it has been the argument on the back porch many times. How ever my cranked and beat suburban with 345k has stock ball joints my father in law has 105 on his and on his 3rd set of ball joints.
I say do the typical lof and check over. Then load the fam up and go out in the wood. No one hear can tell you what works for you. The most important thing is use it see what you need for what you do. I have a ton of miss on a truck that has not left the yard. I use a almost stock superduty now for every thing.
I say do the typical lof and check over. Then load the fam up and go out in the wood. No one hear can tell you what works for you. The most important thing is use it see what you need for what you do. I have a ton of miss on a truck that has not left the yard. I use a almost stock superduty now for every thing.
Buliwyf
Viking with a Hammer
Well I'd go after a purpose built kit for that truck. Just cranking the torsion bars kinda stinks. There are kits that fix what that does wrong to a burb. Shouldn't break the bank either. Body lifts are the debil in the fullsize world. I save those for trail beaters. I'd use Bushwacker cutout fender flares for big tires long before body lifting.
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I'd use this 2.5" kit:
http://www.superlift.com/Catalog.asp?P=3250&V=46
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Your choice of 1.5", 2" rear blocks, or a rear add a leaf.
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I'd use this 2.5" kit:
http://www.superlift.com/Catalog.asp?P=3250&V=46
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Your choice of 1.5", 2" rear blocks, or a rear add a leaf.
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cowboy63645
Adventurer
Your best bet for the visors is a local salvage yard such as you wrench it, or go online to LMC and they will carry most of what your looking for at good prices.
Sent from my RM-820_nam_att_100 using Board Express
Sent from my RM-820_nam_att_100 using Board Express
colierar
Observer
Congrats on the new Suburban. I also just bought a 1997 about a month ago. Here is what you need for your aux input. Easy to install.
http://www.amazon.com/AUX-INPUT-FOR-GM-PIN/dp/B001EAWOE0/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000V0G2C4/ref=oh_details_o08_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Only tools you need are a small screwdriver to pop the connectors off the back of the radio and a drill to mount the toggle switch. The dash ring should just pop off and the radio just slides out. I will say that you have to be playing a cd or a tape and flip the switch to make your phone or mp3 player work. It works as a slave off of one of those components on your stock stereo.
Honestly I just put 265 Duratracs on mine and for the amount of offroading I will be doing its plenty. I didn't want to lose the ride quality or cut anything to go any bigger.
Some nice speakers that fit in the passenger doors too. You have to cut and splice the wires though.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000230LC2/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/AUX-INPUT-FOR-GM-PIN/dp/B001EAWOE0/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000V0G2C4/ref=oh_details_o08_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Only tools you need are a small screwdriver to pop the connectors off the back of the radio and a drill to mount the toggle switch. The dash ring should just pop off and the radio just slides out. I will say that you have to be playing a cd or a tape and flip the switch to make your phone or mp3 player work. It works as a slave off of one of those components on your stock stereo.
Honestly I just put 265 Duratracs on mine and for the amount of offroading I will be doing its plenty. I didn't want to lose the ride quality or cut anything to go any bigger.
Some nice speakers that fit in the passenger doors too. You have to cut and splice the wires though.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000230LC2/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
jimed43
Adventurer
Ok so I have owned it almost 2 weeks, still a huge smile on my face.
A few notes
The drivers side door lock actuator fell off 2 nights ago. So we removed the door panel, drilled the rivets, and screwed it back into place. I was lucky enough to not brake any clips removing the door panel.
I just ordered the Husky Classic Floor mats for the front. I like the diamond plate look.
I am doing a oil change on Friday and switching to synthetic.
It will be a slow build, since the holidays are coming.
A few notes
The drivers side door lock actuator fell off 2 nights ago. So we removed the door panel, drilled the rivets, and screwed it back into place. I was lucky enough to not brake any clips removing the door panel.
I just ordered the Husky Classic Floor mats for the front. I like the diamond plate look.
I am doing a oil change on Friday and switching to synthetic.
It will be a slow build, since the holidays are coming.
BigTex
Observer
Jim-
Ever since cash for clunkers, the wrecking yards over off of Jefferson and Loop 12 are full of your body style 'burbs. There are several U-Pull it style ones. Last time I was there, there had to have been 30 '92-'98 burbs and tahoes.
Don't worry about the door clips. Here's my source...........................
http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/GM_Push_Type_Retainer_p/a18353.htm
With a little research, I've found almost EVERY clip needed for everything from jeeps to imports on that site. Without the dealer pricing. Box of 50 for $11 break all you want.
I did the 4 beam high beam mod on mine (99 Tahoe) and it works great. I used a factory underdash brake controller harness for a 99+ truck, took it apart and inserted the wires into a blank relay spot in my fuse box. Added on fuse holder and tied the wires into the headlight harness right next to the fuse box. Looks COMPLETELY factory, uses a factory relay and works great. It took a little work getting into the fuse box, and a little planning to get everything right the first try. I can't be happier. I removed the factory DRL modual as I hate DRL's. I also went with an Alpine radio with Bluetooth phone interface. I disconnected the rear most speakers and removed the little BS underdash amp for them. Cut it up and used the plug from the amp to loop the back seat door speakers correctly to the radio. After the oil change make sure you change the fuel filter. Also, if you want the fuel pump to really last you, try to keep at least half a tank of fuel or more in it to keep it cool. If your A/C starts not switching floor/dash/vents, don't sweat it. The links are most likely gummed up, right above the gas pedal is the actuator. The little white arms with springs need to be cleaned and then lubed with silicon spray lube.
That's about it off the top of my head, I'm sure there is more rattling around up in my head.
http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/GM_Push_Type_Retainer_p/a18353.htm
With a little research, I've found almost EVERY clip needed for everything from jeeps to imports on that site. Without the dealer pricing. Box of 50 for $11 break all you want.
I did the 4 beam high beam mod on mine (99 Tahoe) and it works great. I used a factory underdash brake controller harness for a 99+ truck, took it apart and inserted the wires into a blank relay spot in my fuse box. Added on fuse holder and tied the wires into the headlight harness right next to the fuse box. Looks COMPLETELY factory, uses a factory relay and works great. It took a little work getting into the fuse box, and a little planning to get everything right the first try. I can't be happier. I removed the factory DRL modual as I hate DRL's. I also went with an Alpine radio with Bluetooth phone interface. I disconnected the rear most speakers and removed the little BS underdash amp for them. Cut it up and used the plug from the amp to loop the back seat door speakers correctly to the radio. After the oil change make sure you change the fuel filter. Also, if you want the fuel pump to really last you, try to keep at least half a tank of fuel or more in it to keep it cool. If your A/C starts not switching floor/dash/vents, don't sweat it. The links are most likely gummed up, right above the gas pedal is the actuator. The little white arms with springs need to be cleaned and then lubed with silicon spray lube.
That's about it off the top of my head, I'm sure there is more rattling around up in my head.
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i also have a 99 burb, stock, however i thought ask a question here and see if some one could answer this for me and well as the original poster. i recently purchased a roof top tent and want to put it on the burb. will the factory rack handle the weight of the two man tent plus a person. i know the cross bars are crap but what about the main rails. can they handle it?
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