A fabricators 80 series build. Starting with the front bumper

RDC76

Adventurer
my goal was to make something that was clean and complimented the truck. Be light weight for a winch bumper and offer as much clearance without cutting anything on the truck. And utilize the factory mounting. The main box or center winch bay is all 1/4 inch plate steel. And the wings a 10 gauge steel fully tig welded on the outside and stitch welded with mig on the inside. So far I am very happy with how it is coming along. I run synthetic cable so I needed to spec out a fairlead. I was going to make one but it was one of those things were for the price I'll just buy it and save the time. I believe Factor 55 makes some of the best stuff available. So that is what I chose. I also bought their Prolink.
Another objective was to keep the winch as low as possible and not block the radiator as I've read some people have had overheating issues with to much in front of the radiator. I also wanted to run a light bar and not round lights as I think they look cleaner and also will not interfere to much with airflow. So the bumper was designed for that too.
So some other food for thought. And feel free to give input. With wanting my winch low but my fairlead as high as possible. It brought forth a challenge? The line spools from the bottom. As we all know. And I've always had it. I wondered and couldn't find a definitive answer as to why it couldn't feed from the top? And not by respooling and reversing the connections but by simply turning it from left to right. Backwards if you will. Other than increasing the load and stress on the winch feet ( not worried about my base plate) I wouldn't be changing anything? The brake and clutch should function as it should and the controller buttons still work the same. To double check I called and spoke to two people at WARN and they said after some thought that it is fine to run it that way! They said their industrial line and some other models feed that way. So I'm gonna try it! Now my winch is low and my fairlead is where I want it. It's centered between the empty top part of the drum and where the last wrap would be. And about 5 inches higher than where it would have been if I had to go from the bottom. I also recessed the fairlead area back so only about a 1/4 protrudes from the bumper to clear on full side pulls. But doesn't stick out far. I went with Factor55's 1.5" fairlead as well.image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg
 
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RDC76

Adventurer
So now I'm thinking about recovery points. I don't just wanna throw big D-Ring mounts on and call it a day. I want some thing that would be good not only front pulls but full 90 degree pulls. I was thinking of those swivel shackles but the ones rated for anything safe are huge and huge money! I also want to keep weight down and keep it a clean package. So I was looking and found the Gator jaw soft shackle by bubba rope. I called the company to ask a bunch of questions and let him know what I was looking to do. And he said I could definitely use it how I wanted and also that he knows the owner of Factor55 and that the soft shackle was designed to be used on the factor55 Prolink I will be using. He was actually interested in seeing the bumper so I sent him some pics and he's sending me a free soft shackle to try out. Great service!
So my plan or intent is to cut 2 pockets into the front of the bumper on both sides. Of the center section. That will have large pins that drop through to capture the soft shackle or any strap with a loop at the end. And if I'm running line out and through a snatch block I can capture the Prolink in there as well with no additional shackles! Or if I'm doing a side pull I can run the soft shackle to connect the Prolink to the recovery pin. He also gave me the minimum radius that he would recommend for the pocket corners to not damage the shackle. These are what I have to create next. I just need to run some stress numbers on the computer to figure out the proper pin diameter and pocket size.
Please let me know any thoughts. Constructive input is appreciated.
 

RDC76

Adventurer
After I finish the front bumper I will be building the rear bumper, sliders, a roof rack. ( I love the one on boxrockets! Very innovative). Mounting my factory snorkel that I got off a great member on mud. Fabbing up an aluminum auxiliary fuel tank as I don't wanna carry jerry cans on this truck. Adding water and oil storage (custom). And rear cargo barrier maybe? And also rear storage and a stove in the tailgate(been working on that idea for a while!) and last but not least a different way to sleep on the roof.
 

RDC76

Adventurer
Pics of the bottom of the wings to show detail.
 

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RDC76

Adventurer
Also. Before mounting the hoop , led bar and fairlead the bumper weighed 76lbs. Not too bad... Trying to keep as light as I can with out sacrificing to much strength. The mid section Is plenty strong. I'm gonna test the wings to see how strong they are in vertical load. I still have to box out the back of them which will help a lot. And finish some welding.
 

RDC76

Adventurer
Nice bumper, if you make them to sell you may have a future customer!

Thank you. I'm a full time fabricator/welder. Everything I make is potentially for sale. And based on the positive feed back I've been getting on it That could be an option. But I want to get the design fully worked out on my truck first.
 

RDC76

Adventurer
Looks awesome, can't wait to see it finish and in black!:wings:

Thanks ! And me too!! I've been busy with finishing up some customer projects. Haven't had time to finish mine. And I had to order a new welder this week. Hopefully it comes in tomorrow or Thursday. The sample soft shackle did come in though and I was able to cut the pieces for the recovery points. So once I get those done and welded up it should be about ready for paint. Also sourcing out a good texture paint for the top surfaces of the bumper wings. Once the bumper is done its on to the roof rack. I decided that was next before the rear bumper because I want to mount my factory snorkel. And I think snorkels look better with roof racks. Lol. Thanks again..

Rich
 

RDC76

Adventurer
Recovery points sectioned in

My new welder came in and I was able to mock up and weld in the recovery points . They are made from 3/8" and 1/2" plate with 1/8" washer as well.
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RDC76

Adventurer
The recovery pockets. The holes for the quick release ball lock pins are 7/8" diameter.
And there in reverse order......
 

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RDC76

Adventurer
The recovery points on the bumper

With the Prolink and soft shackle.
 

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