Adding an intercooler to a 1995 7.3 Diesel Van!

[broncobowsher]

Ever consider an air to water intercooler off a 6.7? The resulting water to air radiator is much easier to package. Yes, it adds complexity in adding water as the thermal transfer media. But may gain you simplicity in routing the air ducting. Something to consider.

 

[TomsBeast]

I hadn't considered that at all. In fact, before doing a little internet research on OEM air to water intercoolers in OEM applications, I didn't know much about them, I wasn't aware that Ford started using them. Pretty cool stuff; My only 'hands on' experience has been with really high efficiency race intercoolers that circulate ice water. The video I saw on the Hellcat had a guy adding 5lbs of ice to a tank in the trunk, before making a couple hits at the local drag strip, I figured it was some aftermarket deal, but not so it seems..

Having said that, it seems like air-to-air is a fairly simple and time tested solution for my application, they've already has been used on the 7.3's. The challenge is adding it, and 3" tubes to my van, that never came with an intercooler. I'm also a fan of 'drop dead reliable' on my van that sees desert and long road trips, which is hard enough with a a 20yr old rig that's already somewhat bastardized.

The other thing is, I'm not looking to add more 300hp and 300ft/lbs more torque, I can't take on yet another 'little project that turns big'. Rather, I'm just looking for a low-cost bump in power, the same one that a lot of 1995-1998 7.3 truck guys have done (get a used 1999 spider, and an intercooler and tubes, done. Or just buy a Banks or similar kit and bolt it onto their truck). I'm into the intercooler and spider $250 I think, I figure I'll spend maybe another $250 on 3" tube, boots, clamps, air filter mods by the time I'm finished. That is palatable for me.

I 'get' the compactness and smaller intake tract volume as advantages of air to water heat exchangers for the street, but man, the price is both $$, additional failure points, and complication! Let's see, an air-to-water heat exchanger, a water pump and plumbing w/tep sensors and relays, a water tank, a way to keep the water from freezing and a way to handle over temp, and you still have to find a location for the air to air heat exchanger up in the grill! Oh wait, a guy could mount that heat exchange under that van, just add dual electric fans, see, simple. LOL!

 

[TomsBeast]

Doing more research on this, I'm finding myself following this complicated "rabbit hole". (the only things I've purchased so far is a used 1998 spider and used aftermarket intercooler)

Clearing out the lifter valley of the oem Ford stuff, mechanical lift pump, fuel bowl (and it's integral regulator), is really involved and expensive.

Am I correct in saying that moving the filters and pump down to the frame rail requires an aftermarket return regulator set up?

I need to retain my dual tanks and selector valve, which doesn't seem to accommodate the aftermarket regulator system fuel/air return. It can all be fixed with $$$ I guess, like $1500-$1800 to re-do the entire fuel system (Swamps, AirDogII, others), rig up a tank-to-tank transfer pump.

I've read about removing the entrained air bubbles, quieting down the idle, make the fuel pressure adjustable, all of the benefits from aftermaket systems, but a guy could really get carried away.

But I'm not after 450hp, just a modest intercooler upgrade.

My 95 has a mechanical lift pump, which might be in the way of the using oem 1998 spider (I think Ford changed to the Bosche electric pump when they intercooled the 7.3) .

Can the stock 1995 mechanical lift pump be used with the 1998-1999 oem spider?

If not, I'm hoping to buy a block off plate, and use a Bosch electric fuel pump from a 1999 and later 7.3 truck.

Do I really have to delete the fuel bowl?

What if I leave most of my 1995 fuel system stock, only replacing the 'in the way' mechanical lift pump with an electric one?

Do I need to add a return leg in order to use the Bosch electric pump?

 

[CaulkinsCo.]

All the good points you made about the fuel system hold true, throw all the factory stuff in the trash. As for the cost mine was under $150 to build, was already a electric pump though. All very cheap stuff at a hydraulic supply shop. Your duel tank system should not know the difference so it probably won't hold you back.

Frame mount the regulator and dump the fuel rail returns down the bell housing.

 

[CaulkinsCo.]

Make sure to add a pre pump filter/water separator, at that point you can also throw away the in tank fuel pickup Ford used.

 

[b. rock]

Related question, does the 6.0 intercooler fit in the 08+ front clip for the 6.0 motors? Edit: dumb question, they come with one from the factory.

Cooler boost is better boost.

 

[djbonsu]

Doing more research on this, I'm finding myself following this complicated "rabbit hole". (the only things I've purchased so far is a used 1998 spider and used aftermarket intercooler)

Clearing out the lifter valley of the oem Ford stuff, mechanical lift pump, fuel bowl (and it's integral regulator), is really involved and expensive.

Am I correct in saying that moving the filters and pump down to the frame rail requires an aftermarket return regulator set up?

I need to retain my dual tanks and selector valve, which doesn't seem to accommodate the aftermarket regulator system fuel/air return. It can all be fixed with $$$ I guess, like $1500-$1800 to re-do the entire fuel system (Swamps, AirDogII, others), rig up a tank-to-tank transfer pump.

I've read about removing the entrained air bubbles, quieting down the idle, make the fuel pressure adjustable, all of the benefits from aftermaket systems, but a guy could really get carried away.

But I'm not after 450hp, just a modest intercooler upgrade.

My 95 has a mechanical lift pump, which might be in the way of the using oem 1998 spider (I think Ford changed to the Bosche electric pump when they intercooled the 7.3) .

Can the stock 1995 mechanical lift pump be used with the 1998-1999 oem spider?

If not, I'm hoping to buy a block off plate, and use a Bosch electric fuel pump from a 1999 and later 7.3 truck.

Do I really have to delete the fuel bowl?

What if I leave most of my 1995 fuel system stock, only replacing the 'in the way' mechanical lift pump with an electric one?

Do I need to add a return leg in order to use the Bosch electric pump?

By dumping the mechanical lift pump and adding the electric pump, you may be able to keep the fuel bowl by using this:

https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/fuel-rail-crossover-frx/

I use it but my 7.3 is a 2000 and thought it maybe a little pricey, its simple and effective.

 

[b dkw1]

Where there's a will, there's a way...

LOLzzzzz

 

[TomsBeast]

What? No 2x4's used in the swap? LOL!

Surely I can do better than that

 

[TomsBeast]

In the process of chasing fuel and oil leaks, I found myself stripping the turbo and fuel system out of the valley last weekend.

I mocked up the e99 spider and the pump, it looks like the stock lift pump, fuel bowl, and it's internal regulator can stay after all!

-The bad news is the stock impeller took a hit last year, dogeared the vanes, but the inside of the compressor housing is fine.

So before I spend any more time on the intercooler scheme, I've got to clean up the Exxon Valdez's valley mess, repair the turbo, then I can move forward.

 

[ujoint]

LOLzzzzz

Now THIS is awesome! Ha. When I 1st started researching intercoolers in 7.3 vans a supplier told me that knew of a guy that did it. Sweet, want to speak to him. Where did he have the intercooler? Where the pass side seat was. Ok thanks!

 

[RVflyfish]

I've got to clean up the Exxon Valdez's valley mess,

Ha, my '99 7.3's nickname is Valdez. A quart of oil every 200 miles on its journey from FL to CA earned it that moniker. On the plus side, at least I know the oil is clean...

 

[TomsBeast]

I sourced a few more parts yesterday, But before I add that intercooler, I've got to repair the existing stuff.

The impeller pic shows the dogeared vanes of the stock impeller, likely damaged from sucking in silt last year in DV when I buried the van up the axles in dry lake bed, and my intake hose came loose from the air cleaner.



Leaking Exhaust Back Pressure Valves (EBPV) are common in high mileage 7.3's like mine. It uses engine oil pressure as 'the force' to open and close the flapper valve as exhaust exits the turbo, headed to the muffler. When the cylinder goes bad, they leak oil into the valley. That valve closes during cold weather start ups, and is supposed to help the engine warm up faster from what I've read. The problem with fixing it, is the repair kit is $135 not including the electric solinoid, and it's only a matter of time before it starts leaking again. The flapper valve is on a huge shaft, and the flapper doesn't fully get out of the way when not in use. Some guys think the 15% obstruction robs power.



Most guys just buy a "EBPV delete turbo pedestal" and be done with it. There's a dongle that you can also buy, that fools the ECM into thinking it's still there, keeps the CEL from coming on.

 

[TomsBeast]

I picked up a pr. of '99-'04 intercooler tubes, and have another pair coming. I should be able to start laying out my routing this week.

Wicked Wheel 2 on a rebuilt center section, Garrett 360deg thrust, new bearing kit, balanced. If not for a broken off 12pt M8 x 1.25 hardened bolt in the hot side housing, I would've had the turbo back together yesterday.

Instead, I spent half a day driving to a buddy's shop to remove the remains of that broken off bolt. Those bolts are harder than Chinese algebra, but a carbide endmill and a milling machine is your best friend. Well, beside Dave with the mill and lathe, who's a pretty good friend, too.




e99 spider and craigslist intercooler

 

[b dkw1]

You will love that WW2.

I kept the EBV as I'm using it as an exhaust brake. If I upgrade to 05+ axles with the bigger brakes I may consider taking it off but for now I need it. Power is not my issue, stopping kinda is.