AEV Brute Expedition Build in Dubai

[Oman4x4]

So now we start getting interesting

Got the frame 3D scanned - still need to scan the original Jeep's drivetrain and drop that into place in CAD and then will have everything I need to design the control arm placements and the auxiliary fuel tanks and battery mounts. Also later will overlay the cabin data and can keep the body mounts in mind when doing the roll cage.

Full frame... Optima battery in upright position.

MetalCloak's control arm ends with Ruff Stuff weld in threaded inserts.

Optima mounted on it's side. Better clearance, no danger of grounding out if it shifts in an accident.

 

[moxnix]

I'm speechless.

I guess this proves what can happen when you say 'money is no object' and mean it.

Good luck with the rest of the build, I anxiously await every update. :bowdown

Chris

 

[nwoods]

Got the frame 3D scanned - still need to scan the original Jeep's drivetrain and drop that into place in CAD and then will have everything I need to design the control arm placements and the auxiliary fuel tanks and battery mounts.

I thought you bought the AEV kit....if so, I am not understanding why you need to do the engineering for all the mounting points and so forth. I'm fascinated that you know how to do all this, and are capable of it, but I don't understand the need to do it.

 

[Oman4x4]

I thought you bought the AEV kit....if so, I am not understanding why you need to do the engineering for all the mounting points and so forth. I'm fascinated that you know how to do all this, and are capable of it, but I don't understand the need to do it.

If you wanted to have the stock control arm lengths then you don't need to do anything. Put the AEV Brute kit on and be done with it. The goal here is to take it above and beyond, using some special shock absorbers and control arm ends that will give a ridiculous amount of wheel travel and articulation.

The problem is I couldn't find a suspension kit that I liked. Unfortunately AEV no longer offers the Nth Degree line of suspension for the TJ. Some essential spare parts are available but full kits are not.

Everyone else just had something about them that I don't like. None of them had the joints that I want as standard, but more importantly most of them have a triangulated 4-link rear suspension setup such as this:

Now that works great for articulation and keeping the axle centred - but those control arms crossing each other makes that space between the transfer case and rear axle fully occupied. Keeping a more factory 5-link set up - just scaled up - will mean that I have two large open spaces on either side of the driveshaft. One I can use for a secondary fuel tank, one for exhaust muffler / muffler bypass, and air tanks...

So... none of this is needed just to do the Brute built. It's just part of taking it to the level that I want as well as working around other needs that might not be everyone's concerns on a mass-market kit.

There's certainly not many TJ Wranglers on the planet that will have over 40 gallons of fuel between the frame rails AND long-arm suspension.

 

[Oman4x4]

A bit of progress...

Tonight I scanned the undercarriage of the Jeep and also quick scans of the frame at maximum compression of the shocks. Overlaying the two then I can make sure my axle truss / arm mounts / arms themselves won't hit anything at full compression. Also finished placing the axles in the correct stock-ride-height-location on the frame.

 

[nwoods]

Thanks for the detailed answer. I get it now. I hope you realize your dreams with this rig. It seems like you are well on your way thats for sure!

 

[Yudda]

Incredible stuff... Subscribed !

 

[Dayriesw]

So, you are willing to give up the next level suspension of a 4 link (more flex/articulation) so you can store more fuel and muffler under the bed? That just doesnt make since to me. I mean, you are going to add the much larger open air storage of the pick up bed, but you want to store stuff under it? I guess I could understand the weight of the fuel and wanting it that low on the chassis for a lower center of gravity but I could not justify it for what you are giving up. And the muffler, that can go basically anywhere. Think about it, your jeep just grew 20% (guess). You could even route the pipe to clear going over your axle (like a regular bro truck) and have the muffler behind the axle, just in front of it, mounted about the tranny skid or even before it depending on how your front suspension is set up. I still think you arent giving up to much by putting a fuel storage in the bed in the form of a second tank (anywhere for best weight distribution) and still not loosing that much room out of the bed. Oh, and stacks would look sweet on the brute...

 

[Oman4x4]

So, you are willing to give up the next level suspension of a 4 link (more flex/articulation) so you can store more fuel and muffler under the bed? That just doesnt make since to me. I mean, you are going to add the much larger open air storage of the pick up bed, but you want to store stuff under it? I guess I could understand the weight of the fuel and wanting it that low on the chassis for a lower center of gravity but I could not justify it for what you are giving up. And the muffler, that can go basically anywhere. Think about it, your jeep just grew 20% (guess). You could even route the pipe to clear going over your axle (like a regular bro truck) and have the muffler behind the axle, just in front of it, mounted about the tranny skid or even before it depending on how your front suspension is set up. I still think you arent giving up to much by putting a fuel storage in the bed in the form of a second tank (anywhere for best weight distribution) and still not loosing that much room out of the bed. Oh, and stacks would look sweet on the brute...

It's a matter of priorities... and when you're really setting out to go far from the city - fuel is a priority. The bed is only 5 ft 8 in and the width almost matches a Ford Ranger flareside, and yes it's a huge improvement over a stock Jeep but the plan is to use that space. The front will have the box that the tonnau cover retracts into, and below that will be a water tank for on-board shower making for a flush front wall level with the tonnau box. The sides will be enclosed up to the wheel arches with access panels making storage spaces for loose items, and areas for extinguishers etc. to be accessible, recessed into the box area. Those boxes are also what will give me my Ford Ranger bed width at the top. Then inside that bed area will be a Waeco fridge unit, and all of our gear. Camp chairs, photography equipment, cooking equipment etc etc etc. I expect to fill it up fast if were going away for a week long trip.

(rough idea - when the bed is mounted on the frame with the cab closeout and everything I'll be doing a scan of those details and start doing proper designs for everything.)

I just don't see a 4 link being a worthwhile improvement over a 5-link plus at least 20 gallons of additional fuel with the lowest possible COG, and no additional cargo space lost.

The thing is despite the extra length it is still a Wrangler and a lot smaller than a Bro truck



But I do agree - smoke stacks WOULD be sweet

 

[Oman4x4]

Just a cellphone pic - but - teardown in progress

That ARB back bumper sure came off quicker than it went on

 

[Dayriesw]

You are loosing some of the "lcog" with the water tank in the bed. Is there any way you could move the extra fuel tanks to the rear and possibly move the water tanks to underneath the bed or something? Now that I understand the goal, maybe there is other ways to get there? Are you looking at custom tanks for the fuel and water?

I mean, I know the space under a TJ and an LJ is small and you would thing you are gaining about 20% of that area due to the new wheel base and stretch.....

 

[Oman4x4]

Losing some of the LCOG advantage - but still the front lower part of the bed is still the next lowest, most stable part of the rig if the area under the frame is all used.

The fuel being under the car just makes the most sense to me... will have dual factory filler necks on the bed side for easy filling... The bed will be closed with the tonnau cover and would have food and clothing and gear in there so if there was a leak of fuel fumes I would rather that not be in a closed space that is opened by an electric motor. ;-)

The water in the bed just seems safer.

The Jeep is getting a long-range GenRight 24.5 gallon factory-replacement tank and then a spare set of all the parts they normally use for fabricating the tank to build my second tank here. Both will have TJ factory pumps in and a switch to disable one and activate the other.

 

[Oman4x4]

point of no return coming right up...

And a preview on the suspension parts / front axle truss...

 

[Oman4x4]

The tub doesn't quite fit the new chassis... think it will need some minor modifications to get it to sit right... ;-) Can see how much longer the Jeep will be though as the front edge of the tub is lined up! Now to support it, and cut the back end off, and drop it down into the correct position!

 

[Yulli]

I saw your updates on OT. Looking good.