Alaskan Camper Build Up
- Thread starter Carlyle
- Start date
DiploStrat
Expedition Leader
Talking Past Each Other a Bit
Truck campers, like the Alaskan, have no subframe; they use the truck bed to hold the camper and distribute the weight. Thus your "stack" is Camper-pickup bed-chassis. Carl removed the pickup bed and replaced it with a flat bed, but the stack is the same. But the issue remains; you still need something between the chassis and the camper; you can't bolt a conventional truck camper directly to the chassis.
This "something" has a couple of goals:
-- Protect the camper from an unacceptably high degree of twist. Obviously, the "stronger" your camper, the less protection needed. Hence my musing that you could design a camper with an integrated base frame that was ready to mount directly to the chassis.
-- Reinforce the chassis or or at least distribute the weight so as not to act as a stress concentrator. As noted in many posts, some pivot designs, while protecting the camper from twist, have had the unfortunate side effect of concentrating all of the weight on only three or four mounting points and thus breaking the frame.
In the process, of course, you seek to add as little extra cost, weight, complexity, or height.
I asked the question as it appeared that the flat bed that Carl is using has been stiff enough on a one ton pickup to accomplish the mission. I would expect that it would work even better on a larger truck. I was thus interested that Carl would propose using a pivot frame on a larger truck when I would guessed that it would have been even less necessary than on the one ton truck. Especially if he goes to a simpler, rectangular camper without the suspended weight of the cabover.
Offered for consideration. Fortunately I still have my day job and don't have to bet my paycheck on this!
Truck campers, like the Alaskan, have no subframe; they use the truck bed to hold the camper and distribute the weight. Thus your "stack" is Camper-pickup bed-chassis. Carl removed the pickup bed and replaced it with a flat bed, but the stack is the same. But the issue remains; you still need something between the chassis and the camper; you can't bolt a conventional truck camper directly to the chassis.
This "something" has a couple of goals:
-- Protect the camper from an unacceptably high degree of twist. Obviously, the "stronger" your camper, the less protection needed. Hence my musing that you could design a camper with an integrated base frame that was ready to mount directly to the chassis.
-- Reinforce the chassis or or at least distribute the weight so as not to act as a stress concentrator. As noted in many posts, some pivot designs, while protecting the camper from twist, have had the unfortunate side effect of concentrating all of the weight on only three or four mounting points and thus breaking the frame.
In the process, of course, you seek to add as little extra cost, weight, complexity, or height.
I asked the question as it appeared that the flat bed that Carl is using has been stiff enough on a one ton pickup to accomplish the mission. I would expect that it would work even better on a larger truck. I was thus interested that Carl would propose using a pivot frame on a larger truck when I would guessed that it would have been even less necessary than on the one ton truck. Especially if he goes to a simpler, rectangular camper without the suspended weight of the cabover.
Offered for consideration. Fortunately I still have my day job and don't have to bet my paycheck on this!
Carlyle
Explorer
An Alaskan w/o a cab over is a more sealed unit in the winter. In addition, there is X amount of junk, stuff that we take on all our trips eg. the barbecue comes along always. We can either have it off the back and change our departure angle and add extra time to set up, which we do. On the other hand, you could integrate it and probably expand the water tank at the same time. The 30 gallon tank at this point is our biggest limiting factor when headed to the boonies. Bus, I doubt it. Just a different approach I would do if I were to start all over.
tlbrewer
Observer
Carl
Excellent article. Always love reading your updates and evaluations. Nothing like having a testbed so the rest of us don't have to learn from our own mistakes. HaHa. Funny that you mention not having a cabover if you were to do it again. I was just thinking about that the other day...
Tom
Excellent article. Always love reading your updates and evaluations. Nothing like having a testbed so the rest of us don't have to learn from our own mistakes. HaHa. Funny that you mention not having a cabover if you were to do it again. I was just thinking about that the other day...
Tom
KU9L
New member
Overcab vs. not
My wife and I find the overcab options tough to deal with since we have 25 year-old motorcycle injuries, probably why we never purchased a TC over the years. We have a 2008 Chevy Silverado 3500HD w/dually and 11' flatbed that we pull our 30' 5W with these days (full-time workampers). I was trying to decide how to make a TC work with our 11' flatbed and headache rack, but we are limited to about 4000 pounds total W/TC to meet our current hauler 12K GVWR. We went with our current hauler because it was half the price of a cowboy Cadillac, but think that for me to do it right with a TC that will do us justice I need to go to a MDT to start with. I'll see if I can dig up an image of our hauler ...
Dave
My wife and I find the overcab options tough to deal with since we have 25 year-old motorcycle injuries, probably why we never purchased a TC over the years. We have a 2008 Chevy Silverado 3500HD w/dually and 11' flatbed that we pull our 30' 5W with these days (full-time workampers). I was trying to decide how to make a TC work with our 11' flatbed and headache rack, but we are limited to about 4000 pounds total W/TC to meet our current hauler 12K GVWR. We went with our current hauler because it was half the price of a cowboy Cadillac, but think that for me to do it right with a TC that will do us justice I need to go to a MDT to start with. I'll see if I can dig up an image of our hauler ...
Dave
Carlyle
Explorer
I haven't had any issues with overhang as of this time. As I stated before, I don't off road, just back road. Though some of the back roads can be pretty gnarly. I've backed the new hitch extension into some dirt and snow a few times, but that's about it. As far as going longer, I think I would want to get a chassis stretch and a mild lift before I went to more overhang. I really don't know what's involved in a stretch, but it looks like a better solution for a longer camper. That's one reason I kept this camper to this length.
The rub rail is nice and keeps prying eyes away from tank valves.
How's BC these days? I miss my old stomping grounds.
The rub rail is nice and keeps prying eyes away from tank valves.
How's BC these days? I miss my old stomping grounds.
78Bronco
Explorer
"Beverage" opener on side of flat bed
This is the most important part of the build:drool:
Nice camper!:coffeedrink:
Funrover
Expedition Leader
That would most likely get me in trouble. but OK! LOL :wings:
Carlyle
Explorer
We've been camping all over Colorado this summer, Most good and one bad. We also made a few small add on's to the camper to make things a little easier.
Propane quick release fittings on passenger side for outside stove and barbecue, in addition to the existing compressed air quick release:
Propane quick release fitting on driver's side for generator use, in addition to the existing compressed air quick release:
Storage pod by Let's Go Aero is tipped slightly so that it is even when loaded and pulled out for door access:
Alaskan camper convention!
Propane quick release fittings on passenger side for outside stove and barbecue, in addition to the existing compressed air quick release:
Propane quick release fitting on driver's side for generator use, in addition to the existing compressed air quick release:
Storage pod by Let's Go Aero is tipped slightly so that it is even when loaded and pulled out for door access:
Alaskan camper convention!
