superbuickguy
Explorer
you have a newborn and you're flat scooting on getting your rig operational - I'm such a slacker comparatively...
Last edited:
All-Purpose Scout 80 build
- Thread starter MotoDave
- Start date
MotoDave
Explorer
thanks, I'm trying to fit in time when I can. Why'd you take down the pic? I'm curious how you did the coils in the rear, got any closer picutres? What coils did you use?
Sweet, the truck already has race car (support) parts that are Baja proven! You'll have to stop by and check it out soon.
Thanks guys!
superbuickguy
Explorer
No need to muck up your thread with mine.
I've got JK coils under it... I think they're front coils at the moment... I have 2 complete sets - a rubicon set and a 4" lift set... the 4" lift ones may, in a shorter version, end up being the permanent springs. I want to keep the ride height as short as is possible - means 4" up travel, 10" down... but that also means balancing and test fitting a lot.
I cut my frame and used schedule 80 pipe to make spring pockets... starts(ish) at post 548 http://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/shipwreck.818420/page-28
​build is here
http://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/shipwreck.818420/
jscusmcvet
Explorer
Wow... I panicked just looking at the wiring loom! Amazed at what you guys can do. My first 4wd experience was in my brother's scout back in the early 80's. Don't remember the year, but it looked the same as yours. What a beast. Heavy as a tank... he was rear ended by a VW beetle and... nothing happened to the scout. Beetle was totaled... Scout rear bumper, meet Beetle A pillar... now play nicely... hahaha. Great work on your build.
ntsqd
Heretic Car Camper
heh, just a little late......
Ratio is 10:1, so wrench handle pivot to lifting tab length is ten times the distance from the beam's pivot to the lifting tab. So 100 lbs indicated "torque" is 1000 lbs. corner weight. This unit has an adjustable ratio beam, but 10:1 is the easiest on my head so I never change it. The height is adjustable because you want the beam to be level with the tire *barely* off the ground. How to detect this easily is a piece of paper slid under the tire. One person pushes down on the wrench while another gently tries to pull the paper out from under the tire. As soon as the paper moves easily take a reading on the beam.
SolidWorks model showing the different parts:
superbuickguy
Explorer
thanks, we finally figured out the weight - 3500# - the original thought was 6k... uh, no. I told the spring builder that he didn't factor in the special, helium alloy metal I used when he calculated. He retorted that he did and calculated the bricks in my head as well... we hate each other, but it works well, especially since he's the one who made the mistake this time :bike_rider: some say that a sign of growing up is not rubbing anothers' face in their mistakes. I say "what's the fun in that?"
MotoDave
Explorer
I'll just leave this here ...
https://youtu.be/uR1v-d3Q7_Q
https://youtu.be/uR1v-d3Q7_Q
superbuickguy
Explorer
very cool! great job
Happykamper
Explorer
Holy crap ! Just picked up an XJ TO ADD TO JEEP collection . Can I just drop it off at your place for a month or so?
You have the greatest shop and every tool one could imagine. Nice job
You have the greatest shop and every tool one could imagine. Nice job
MotoDave
Explorer
Thanks, but I think you'd be sorely disappointed with how little I get done in a month!
MotoDave
Explorer
Some info on the electrical work to get the engine running:
I laid out the electrical panel on a piece of wood just to make moving things around easier - eventually this will be replaced with a piece of aluminum. Mounting everything to the firewall will let me keep the inner fenders removable for access to the engine (thanks for the idea Brennan).
Everything needed for the engine to run is handled by this small fuse/relay block (LINK). It uses Metripack 280 series terminals just like the Bussman RMTR, but packages nice for the few circuits I need for the engine to run. I'm still debating keeping this fully separated from the rest of the truck's wiring system or integrating it into one of the two RMTR's you see mounted there.
I documented the fuse block here if anyone's interested. Its a little different from other 'standalone LS engine fuse block' schematics I've found since i'm using a separate relay for switched power, rather than building it into the engine fuse block, but in case its useful to anyone else here it is: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B7rHOs9SMik3Um5DNnQ1SHRPeTQ
Main switched relay is a Bussman 37702 (LINK) which feeds the two bus bars at the top (one is Constant hot, one is ignition switched).
All of the wiring passing through the firewall will run through a weatherpack bulkhead connector (LINK) next to the electrical panel, to the back side of the dash. The dash wiring will all be terminated into connectors so that its not a rats nest of spade plugs and everything is easy to remove and replace.
Other minor work done was fitting the transfer case shifters so that I can figure out where to cut the opening in the transmission tunnel cover.
Next step is getting the cooling system sorted - I need to order the radiator i plan to use (Griffin Direct Fit Radiators 8-00009-LS), build some mounting/shrouding for it and get hoses sorted out. A friend found the above LS swap radiator from Griffin that's similar size to the popular 26x19 universal radiator, except about $100 cheaper and with a year warranty instead of 30 days! Good find!
I'm also patching up the header clearance holes in the firewall, then I'll pull the motor back out, clean up, paint and insulate the firewall, and get the clutch sorted out so that the engine can go back in for good.
I laid out the electrical panel on a piece of wood just to make moving things around easier - eventually this will be replaced with a piece of aluminum. Mounting everything to the firewall will let me keep the inner fenders removable for access to the engine (thanks for the idea Brennan).
Everything needed for the engine to run is handled by this small fuse/relay block (LINK). It uses Metripack 280 series terminals just like the Bussman RMTR, but packages nice for the few circuits I need for the engine to run. I'm still debating keeping this fully separated from the rest of the truck's wiring system or integrating it into one of the two RMTR's you see mounted there.
I documented the fuse block here if anyone's interested. Its a little different from other 'standalone LS engine fuse block' schematics I've found since i'm using a separate relay for switched power, rather than building it into the engine fuse block, but in case its useful to anyone else here it is: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B7rHOs9SMik3Um5DNnQ1SHRPeTQ
Main switched relay is a Bussman 37702 (LINK) which feeds the two bus bars at the top (one is Constant hot, one is ignition switched).
All of the wiring passing through the firewall will run through a weatherpack bulkhead connector (LINK) next to the electrical panel, to the back side of the dash. The dash wiring will all be terminated into connectors so that its not a rats nest of spade plugs and everything is easy to remove and replace.
Other minor work done was fitting the transfer case shifters so that I can figure out where to cut the opening in the transmission tunnel cover.
Next step is getting the cooling system sorted - I need to order the radiator i plan to use (Griffin Direct Fit Radiators 8-00009-LS), build some mounting/shrouding for it and get hoses sorted out. A friend found the above LS swap radiator from Griffin that's similar size to the popular 26x19 universal radiator, except about $100 cheaper and with a year warranty instead of 30 days! Good find!
I'm also patching up the header clearance holes in the firewall, then I'll pull the motor back out, clean up, paint and insulate the firewall, and get the clutch sorted out so that the engine can go back in for good.