All-Purpose Scout 80 build

[KMW-NW]

Same here. I just read this whole thread. This is almost exactly what I have planned for my 80. Awesome build!

 

[MotoDave]

That's guys, glad you are still following along. I'm hoping to motivate people to fix up more of these old scouts, showing that just because there isn't a lot of bolt on stuff available doesn't mean you can't still build something cool.

I am looking I to making the inner fenders removable. It's not particularly easy since the inner fender pieces are integrated into the firewall. I can work around them if it's too much of a pain to do.

 

[KMW-NW]

That sounds like a cool idea. I'll be going with the same kind of concept as you with using common parts. I have a whole drivetrain from a '78 GMC heavy duty 3 / 4 ton. 400 small block, turbo 400, NP 203, and 14 bolt rear and dana 44 front.

 

[98dango]

We have 2 67 scout 800 a.

 

[superbuickguy]

That's guys, glad you are still following along. I'm hoping to motivate people to fix up more of these old scouts, showing that just because there isn't a lot of bolt on stuff available doesn't mean you can't still build something cool.

I am looking I to making the inner fenders removable. It's not particularly easy since the inner fender pieces are integrated into the firewall. I can work around them if it's too much of a pain to do.

If you do, take a page out of the drag racer's handbook. Make a framework and hang the fenders from it. If you really want to be clever, use Dzus fasteners to put it on. Do fasten the hood to the firewall, I did the "pin it" on a former drag car (67 Camaro) and utterly hated it... e.g. you have to pull the hood to check the oil, find out that "funny" smell - and in either case, you do it beside the road an inevitably a truck blows by and blows your nicely painted hood off the roof and onto the ground (scratching the heck out of both)... I don't listen to the person who suggested that anymore (sorry dad, that's why).

With that said, on a 4x4 that gets wet, you want to put removable rubber liners to keep water out of the engine compartment.... trust me on this.

 

[98dango]

If you do, take a page out of the drag racer's handbook. Make a framework and hang the fenders from it. If you really want to be clever, use Dzus fasteners to put it on. Do fasten the hood to the firewall, I did the "pin it" on a former drag car (67 Camaro) and utterly hated it... e.g. you have to pull the hood to check the oil, find out that "funny" smell - and in either case, you do it beside the road an inevitably a truck blows by and blows your nicely painted hood off the roof and onto the ground (scratching the heck out of both)... I don't listen to the person who suggested that anymore (sorry dad, that's why).

With that said, on a 4x4 that gets wet, you want to put removable rubber liners to keep water out of the engine compartment.... trust me on this.

I second this all of it

 

[MotoDave]

Success! As of Saturday its finally back to being a roller!

Felt like it took me forever, but I got the second shock tower fab'ed and welded up, then took a deep breath and did this:

Tacked the shock towers back on and checked clearances once again. At full droop on the passenger side and full stuff on the drivers I've still got a very technical 'finger width' of clearance between the notched area and the coil, which I'm happy with. Picture makes it look like the back of the shock is closer to the shock tower than it really is, this is with the axle beyond full droop, basically hanging off the shocks.

Got some springs put on the coilovers and everything bolted up, and got to set the scout on all 4 tires for the first time in about 2 years:

In my moment of triumph I thought i'd at least roll the truck around a little, but no joy, the back tire was bound up against the back edge of the fender, so I made the cut along the lines I'd laid out to match up with the EB flares.

So that's where it sits now. Feels like its taken an awful long time to get to this point, but I am overall pretty happy with how the end product has matched up with the design I came up with in SolidWorks.

I tinkered around a bit more, got most of the TBI bits off my storage shelf and onto the motor. I was concerned the big old OEM brackets for the AC and alternator/PS pump wouldn't play nice with the inner fenders or what's left of the core support, but it looks alright. I did remove the duct that was through the hole on the passenger side to make room for the AC compressor.

I think I'll still cut out most of the existing structure and build out a new bolt on support for a radiator once I sort out which one I'm going with.

 

[KMW-NW]

That's awesome! That really got to feel great. Looks good.

 

[MotoDave]

If you do, take a page out of the drag racer's handbook. Make a framework and hang the fenders from it. If you really want to be clever, use Dzus fasteners to put it on. Do fasten the hood to the firewall, I did the "pin it" on a former drag car (67 Camaro) and utterly hated it... e.g. you have to pull the hood to check the oil, find out that "funny" smell - and in either case, you do it beside the road an inevitably a truck blows by and blows your nicely painted hood off the roof and onto the ground (scratching the heck out of both)... I don't listen to the person who suggested that anymore (sorry dad, that's why).

With that said, on a 4x4 that gets wet, you want to put removable rubber liners to keep water out of the engine compartment.... trust me on this.

Hehe, I can picture the sequence of events perfectly!

The hood will stay hinged normally at the firewall. I am not sure if the latch hasn't worked in a while or what, but the truck came to me with some awesome looking old school latches that my dad thinks remind him of an International tractor they had when growing up, so they are staying put for sure!

Can kind of see them at the front edge of the hood here:

It looks like the inner fenders can stay put, and I'll just make a new core support to pick up the radiator, so I shouldn't need much more monkeying with the inner fenders. Yes, it'd be easier to work on the motor if they were removable, but its also a project I can tackle another day.

 

[superbuickguy]

another option for you. Rather than going with the whole Dzus fastened route.... it is a lot of work.... is making the front end more easily removeable. It requires a few moments of thought because you can't fasten any wires, tubes, or containers to the fender wells. as your inner fenders are welded on, cut the fenders, then put a strip over (or under) the cut so you can bolt them back on. It means you'd have to unbolt a few bolts; but then getting to the motor is soooo much easier. I had a C4 Corvette, with the fully openable hood and it was so nice to be able to take a tire off and literally stand in the engine compartment.... of course, you needed a hoist to get out of the depths of the car... but at least working on the engine was easy.

Another option is to put a winch bumper on it so you can stand on the bumper to work on the motor.

 

[MotoDave]

Inner fenders are staying where they are for now. Current solution is (with the outer fender off) to stand on the tire to work on the motor. Its amusing for now, but I have a feeling it'll get old quick. Climbing up and down 35" tires is a good quad workout though.

I'm mocking up the rear shock mounting, should have the shock hoops today and may get them on over the weekend. Need to get as much of the major fab work done, then pull the drivetrain out, separate body and frame (somehow) and finish weld everything. then some paint and back together it can go. Sounds way easier than I know it will be.

 

[superbuickguy]

saw horses and 4x4s are your friend (for body removal). Hardest part is always getting it safely to the ground.

 

[blazinid]

Looks great, good work

 

[MotoDave]

So this happened ...

I told myself its so that I could finally get the LeBlond lathe into place along the wall:

But I also just wanted an excuse to see it outside in the sun now that its a roller!

Still sitting high in the front, I'm going to wait till I have more of the heavy bits in place, then figure out my corner weights and get the right springs ordered.

 

[superbuickguy]

or lift the back
looks good, the lathe too.