allochris´s bc journey continues...

[allochris]

Two days ago I left camp in Princeton thru a backroad from Merrit to Falkland,

and went up to Roger Pass with Damien to climb Uto Peak 2927m (5.1) via SW Ridge.

This ridge is just opposite of the famous long version NW Ridge Sir Donald from the Uto-Sir Donald Col.

We left parking lot at 0715,

 

[allochris]

So we got to the col around 1230,

 

[allochris]

and finally summit my 1st summer alpine trad climb @ 1700. From the summit we can see all high mtns in the Rockies and Selkirks (Mt Columbia, Mt Alberta, Mt Assiniboine, etc.)

With no overnight gear/bivy and only 4hrs of daylight left, we hurried as much as we could in hope to get back down to the col @ 2535m b4 darkness.

Nevertheless, with 400m of descent from the summit to the col, thru a series of downclimbing/10-15x 30m rappels (in the darkness eventually after sunset), we finally got down to the col about 6hrs later around midlight!

(this is me rapping the last 25m with awkward overhangs and side hills...in the dark Pretty much like caving i guess!


Never in my life I felt so relieved at that moment just being able stand on ground with no 1000ft cliff hairy exposure below me!

From the col, we bootpacked down the steep slope on the snowfield for about an hour until we retraced the end of the Sir Donald hiking trail.

From there, we hiked back down to the car under a bright moon (no headlamp required) 20hrs later at 0330 in the morning & drove back to revelstoke at 0430 as sun was just about to come out again from behind....

To top it off, my buddy damien only slept 2hrs until 7am for the next work day!

It's one thing that we have spent countless ski touring days in the mountains at roger pass in the winter time, but never have we travelled on the high mountains after sunset in the darkness! Man was I glad it IS July right now and it was above freezing in the alpine!

Definetely an epic to remember! :rappel: And please don't forget to tie knots at the end of the ropes.

P.S. Nobody fell asleep at the wheel and crashed on the way home.


Next mission, drive south from revelstoke for a soak in the some natural hot springs!!

 

[flyingwil]

Wow! Thanks for sharing all that! :wings:

 

[kcowyo]

What a huge adventure this summer is for you!

Glad to hear the camper is working out so well. I think you did a great job getting it all put together in time.

Fantastic photos from your climb. I hope you keep having a great summer full of adventures.

:beer:

 

[Schattenjager]

SpecFrekinTabular! Thanks for taking the time to upload those! Looks like you had a great time!