bryceon44
New member
Thank you guys I appreciate it
Ambulance Camper/ Expedition Rig Conversion FAQ
- Thread starter flightcancled
- Start date
bryceon44
New member
Repair manual help?
How are you all?
Hey is there a repair manual for these ambulances at least for the front half of coach like an e-350 diesel Chilton manual etc. I have a 1997 ford e-350 7.3 wheeled coach. I have not been able to find one for diesel though. I want to see a maintenance schedule for all the fluids and filters etc and how to do the maintenance with pics and explanations?
Thank you,
How are you all?
Hey is there a repair manual for these ambulances at least for the front half of coach like an e-350 diesel Chilton manual etc. I have a 1997 ford e-350 7.3 wheeled coach. I have not been able to find one for diesel though. I want to see a maintenance schedule for all the fluids and filters etc and how to do the maintenance with pics and explanations?
Thank you,
Attachments
Ozrockrat
Expedition Leader
Just hit eBay and grab a PDF disk of the Ford service and repair manuals. The Clinton ones are a POS I think. You may even be able to find them online for free these days.
bryceon44
New member
Ok thank you. Anyone else have experience with repair manuals for the ford e-350 ambulance?
turbodiesel
Active member
The Ford workshop manuals are the best. I'd find a set on ebay rather than getting Clinton or the like.
turbodiesel
Active member
I have a set of 1997 workshop manuals that I'll give you, just pay the shipping. They are heavy but media mail shouldn't been too bad.
Hi all, I am checking out a quigley coil lifted Horton full ambulance, it is going to need tires before I drive it home. Does anyone know what size tires I can get away with on a quigley life without too much rubbing or highway driving concerns? I’m not looking to make an off-road beast but if I’m shelling out money for 6 new tires I’d rather only buy once.
Thank you! Good to know!
iggi
Ian
A couple notes for people with battery and electrical issues.
1. If you are using the factory charger/inverter then make sure to review the settings to make sure it's setup correctly for your use.
For example. The Xantrex Fleetpower 1000 (which is common in Canadian ambulances) has dip switches for AGM vs Lead Acid, Temp settings, Power output, etc.
Also the battery maintenance / desulfation mode is manually triggered. If it's been switched to turn on in that mode all the time you'll be seeing over 16 volts on charge and it'll mess things up.
Here's the copy of the older Fleetpower 1000 manual.
2. A common source of parasitic power loss is the power connect switch. Look yours up to see if it's zero draw when on, or as is common for solenoid switches it consumes power all the time that it's on. Mine had the Albright SW180 and it sucks more power than my fridge when it's on. I'm replacing with the BlueSea 7700. Will post up once I've installed it.
1. If you are using the factory charger/inverter then make sure to review the settings to make sure it's setup correctly for your use.
For example. The Xantrex Fleetpower 1000 (which is common in Canadian ambulances) has dip switches for AGM vs Lead Acid, Temp settings, Power output, etc.
Also the battery maintenance / desulfation mode is manually triggered. If it's been switched to turn on in that mode all the time you'll be seeing over 16 volts on charge and it'll mess things up.
Here's the copy of the older Fleetpower 1000 manual.
2. A common source of parasitic power loss is the power connect switch. Look yours up to see if it's zero draw when on, or as is common for solenoid switches it consumes power all the time that it's on. Mine had the Albright SW180 and it sucks more power than my fridge when it's on. I'm replacing with the BlueSea 7700. Will post up once I've installed it.
Sportsmans_Safari
New member
1993 FORD E350 Type 3 7.3L AMBULANCE ELECTRICAL - HELP!
I have the above-referenced ambulance with the rear converted to a camper.
Additional Question?
So hard to crank it runs the batteries down over half the time. Have two new batteries, and thinking about installing a new fuel pump (can't find it though), Glow Plugs and Fuel Injectors. Although easily accessible on the F350, how difficult is to get to the fuel injectors on the E350 Van? That is, can I do it myself? Seems very tight from under the hood and interior cover. JD
I have the above-referenced ambulance with the rear converted to a camper.
- PROBLEM: I have no rear interior lights or AC/Heat.
- The Invertor is working.
- The interior 120-V outlets do provide power.
- All emergency lights have been disabled (by someone else)
- All fuses under the dash are working.
- The AC/Heat and Lighting Control Panel in the rear is lite-up.
- I'm am the village-idiot of mechanical any-thing, but I'm a quick study.
Additional Question?
So hard to crank it runs the batteries down over half the time. Have two new batteries, and thinking about installing a new fuel pump (can't find it though), Glow Plugs and Fuel Injectors. Although easily accessible on the F350, how difficult is to get to the fuel injectors on the E350 Van? That is, can I do it myself? Seems very tight from under the hood and interior cover. JD
Coachgeo
Explorer
Start cheking for air leaks. Hard to start a rig that is sucking air. (assuming you have changed all fuel filters) Last ford van I dealt with the pump was back ways on inside of chassis rail drivers side.. but it was a gasser. Some diesels the fuel pump is the IP itself........ there is no extra pump. 7.3 maybe be one of them
I would suggest though add an aux diesel fuel pump on a switch as close to the tank as you can. This will then push fuel thru the system and not suck it..... pushed fuel does not pull air into the cracks in the lines and fittings. Keeps you going when you get an air leak. Esp. if your buying time for chasing and fixing the leak. It also helps you find the air leak.... cause fuel "may" leak out of crack or loose fitting. If the pump helps a ton... then start replacing fuel lines etc. If you no longer need the pump then you finally found the fuel line or fitting that was leaking. Then you only need the pump for priming the system when you change fuel filters. Makes priming way easier too.
after that go with new glow plugs and/or and glow plug relay if they check out weak. IMHO
Bikersmurf
Expedition Leader
I think you have two likely unrelated problems.
1) The box power is usually only powered on when there is oil pressure and the ambulance connect is turned on. During the conversion process, I rewired the ambulance connect so that the "house" electrical can be powered on while the engine is powered down. It could be a fuse, relay, or connection that's causing your problems.
2) The low pressure pump is a mechanical pump located in the valley on the top of the engine. Air leaks can lead to hard starting.
Is is harder to start when cold? (Glow plugs not working well)
Does it restart easily?
iggi
Ian
Only a guess based on my own experience.
There are typically two sets of batteries.
One set for starting, one set for the ambulance box.
Also, the fuses under the dash are likely only for the cab/engine.
If you have the original wiring in place then the ambulance box should have its own set of fuses.
There are typically two sets of batteries.
One set for starting, one set for the ambulance box.
Also, the fuses under the dash are likely only for the cab/engine.
If you have the original wiring in place then the ambulance box should have its own set of fuses.
LowTech
Dirt Track Traveler
Air intrusion doesn't necessarily result in hard starts, it more often starts and then dies, and then won't start again.
If you put an e-pump on it needs to be before the mech pump or T'd in after (yes there is one) w/ a check valve preventing fuel from being pushed back through it. Not doing this can result in the diaphragm of the mech pump being compromise and fuel leaking into the crankcase. Another option is to remove the mech pump and plate it over.
Hard starting w/ no firing when cold sounds like glowplugs to me. Does it change if you cycle them a few times?
A great site for these engines is Oilburners.net. The guys are there are the best when it comes to the IDI diesels like we have.
If you put an e-pump on it needs to be before the mech pump or T'd in after (yes there is one) w/ a check valve preventing fuel from being pushed back through it. Not doing this can result in the diaphragm of the mech pump being compromise and fuel leaking into the crankcase. Another option is to remove the mech pump and plate it over.
Hard starting w/ no firing when cold sounds like glowplugs to me. Does it change if you cycle them a few times?
A great site for these engines is Oilburners.net. The guys are there are the best when it comes to the IDI diesels like we have.