AmbuLand build thread

Bikersmurf

Expedition Leader
If you could lift the bed as one piece (or suspend from top) you could have headroom without breaking down the bed as often.

I'm not sure how you plan to secure the top rather than latches, but you could use cables routed to a convenient location and then lock them at the central location to keep it closed.
 

Abitibi

Explorer
Now that I have the tent handy I should be good to look into my options. I'll do my best to keep it simple, probably the hardest part, hahaha!
 

Bikersmurf

Expedition Leader
If you want to over complicate it, look no further... I have that problem also.

K.I.S.S.

I'll be watching closely, I may do the same one day. I'd likely keep a smaller access panel for the kids to climb up to the upper bunk through.
 

Coachgeo

Explorer
Yeah if it is just for sleeping and not so one can stand up.... I say a small porthole to climb thru instead of a big hole. I suspect your looking for standing room though. IMHO it is a MAJOR project. You're structural integrity of the aluminum box is going out the window. It is liable to twist and flex in many ways it was not intended too with alot of structural supports cut out..... assuming from your pic you've got alluminum framing 12" or 16" on center across the roof. with all that twist and flex your looking at cracking of other structural supports, cabinets, doors etc.

But you may have a plan for all that in mind though.

His pic from earlier showing structural supports.

5f678410095725ea891294ed0f05ae7f.jpg
 
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FDM2012

Adventurer
I am sure that he will end up with a VERY reinforced top frame, having already mentioned that he is welding in braces.

I don't know David personally, but he is obviously an Extremist!

It will be nothing short of The KatsAzz, once he is finished!
 
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Ozrockrat

Expedition Leader
Looking forward to seeing how this works out. One thing to keep an eye out for is that some ambo's have a peaked roof. The ones on both of my Freighliners (American La France Medic Master) have about a 3" (75 mm Canadian) rise that tapers from all 4 sides. Center line and about 3' (1 meter) inward from the front and back. Makes putting racks and solar on a PITA.
 

patoz

Expedition Leader
Looking forward to seeing how this works out. One thing to keep an eye out for is that some ambo's have a peaked roof. The ones on both of my Freighliners (American La France Medic Master) have about a 3" (75 mm Canadian) rise that tapers from all 4 sides. Center line and about 3' (1 meter) inward from the front and back. Makes putting racks and solar on a PITA.

Mine does too, which is why I've decided to install a rack at least over the areas where the solar panels will go and any other mounts like antennas, etc. It will probably end up being the support for my awning also.
 

Abitibi

Explorer
Yes, flat as a pancake but thanks for the heads up. Wouldn't wanna find out once the opening is done!

Thanks Coachgeo, the concern was there as I'll be putting this ambo to work in the years to come but I'm not concerned with loosing integrity. The aluminum framing is overkilled and once braced together it will still be way stronger than the typical Sportsmobile. If vans with thin wall and small braces can withstand the can opener mode then can't see how it would hurt these ambulances!

My biggest concern right now is all that rain and snow coming down as in one way or nether I'll have to drive back home from the shopwith that giant hole, Hahaha!





Cheers
David

"Another great day ruined by responsibilities"
 

Bikersmurf

Expedition Leader
A sheet of plywood would cover most of the hole... ;)

Seeing what you've done I'm sure you can figure it out.
 

patoz

Expedition Leader
I know you're going to save the piece you cut out, so just drop it back in the hole suspended by some pegs or brackets on each side, and run some duct tape around the cut line.

Unless you go rock hopping with it, that should get you back home in the worst weather. :smiley_drive:
 

java

Expedition Leader
I know you're going to save the piece you cut out, so just drop it back in the hole suspended by some pegs or brackets on each side, and run some duct tape around the cut line.

Unless you go rock hopping with it, that should get you back home in the worst weather. :smiley_drive:

Exactly what I was thinking! Scrap screwed across the cut line should hold it. No need to even drop it out.

Look into stucco tape. Holds REALLY well on flat surfaces.
 

Bikersmurf

Expedition Leader
The problem with that is he is going to cut up the scrap for the material to brace the hole up with. ;)



David, if you create a vertical lip around the hole it would reduce the chances of water leaking in. With the right weatherstripping over the edge, you could create a seal with the floor of the RTT. Or have the hole in the RTT a bit larger and seal the RTT floor directly to roof with weatherstripping (or butyl) under the edge of the RTT. Throwing ideas out there... I'm sure you've already got a plan.
 
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patoz

Expedition Leader
The problem with that is he is going to cut up the scrap for the material to brace the hole up with. ;)


I figured that, but I thought he was going to do all of that when he got back home with it. So in that case, I guess it's the old plywood, blue tarp, and tape trick! :)
 

Abitibi

Explorer
I'll just drive home very very fast, problem solved, Hahaha!

John, no need for a lip as I'm gluing (and bolting) the bottom of the tent directly to the roof. Here's a quick drawing for what I'm thinking for the sleeping platform...
df03fd7b8f1e40e6b1d8b0e3293fe62a.jpg


And two other drawings (small and large scale) for the roof cut-off (looking from the front or rear so that radius curve is the side wall). Not sure that drawings make sense to you guys but in my head it's all good, lol.
920b0fca48529115533f1ae4923d8e80.jpg


Cheers
David

"Another great day ruined by responsibilities"
 
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