Another LR in the works!

[David Harris]

I'm going to check into getting a new floor welded in-it's pretty ugly.

I wish I could weld and want to learn but this would be way beyond a beginer.

Here are a few links I've collected on Disco cargo floor replacement. There are possibilities for replacing it with a factory style piece or a substitute. They can either be welded in or bolted. I think the bolts would be best, because the reason the floors rust in the first place are the dozens of spot welds that hold it to the cross members. It's impossible to rustproof these in the long run.

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/stage1v8/TechnicalDIBootFloorReplacement.htm

http://www.plcuk.co.uk/showthread.php?t=8692

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f31/recommendations-discovery-rear-floor-replacement-390.html

http://reviews.ebay.co.uk/LAND-ROVE...-FLOOR-REPLACEMENT_W0QQugidZ10000000010504860

David

 

[Wander]

Thanks for the links-bolting a section of flat aluminum is looking like it might work better than I though-better than factory even. I'll need to add some sort of layer or seal between the floor and the sides and see if the support bars are in tact or not but it's an option that I could do myself rather than paying a shop.

 

[David Harris]

Thanks for the links-bolting a section of flat aluminum is looking like it might work better than I though-better than factory even. I'll need to add some sort of layer or seal between the floor and the sides and see if the support bars are in tact or not but it's an option that I could do myself rather than paying a shop.

One of mine needs a floor eventually, and I think I'm going the aluminum diamond plate route using bolts. Another advantage of this method is that you can periodically unbolt the floor panel to clean and recoat the other areas underneath. If the cross members are too rusted to bolt to, pieces of steel box tubing can be welded in to replace them. It's also a good time to check out the straps holding the fuel tank in as well.

David

 

[Viggen]

I'm going to check into getting a new floor welded in-it's pretty ugly.

I wish I could weld and want to learn but this would be way beyond a beginer.

Was this the "rust free" one from Rovertrader? I surely hope you didnt pay him the $3900 that he wanted for it. Im not trying to bad mouth him or anything but non working windows, leaking injectors and now a rusted out rear floor? That shouldve been a $1500 truck. Can you get some money back? Kind of glad you were first in line on it now

http://forum.landrovernet.com/showt...s-rotten!!!!?highlight=the rear floors rotten

Some good reading there with pictures. I found a little bit on mine. Sanding, seal and a small fiberglass patch was enough for me.

 

[Wander]

That's a bit strong don't you think? From underneath you could not see any evidence of the rust-you had to take up the pad covering the cargo floor. From what I've seen I would think the majority of the DI's have this-the pad material just holds any moisture and lets it sit until rust forms-poor material choice.

The usual trouble areas on DI's from my research are free of problems so this is an odd situation that was caused by a blocked drain tube for the rear sunroof I suspect. The pad was still stuck to the steel by the adhesive applied at the factory so I was the first to open it up.

The undercarriage is very clean. His statement was more to the frame, body mounts and other structural areas that are a much bigger problem if corroded.

Sure it's disappointing to find but I don't blame Dale, he didn't know either and the IIa I bought from him was everything he said and more.

Thanks for the link, good information on the fix.

 

[Viggen]

That's a bit strong don't you think? From underneath you could not see any evidence of the rust-you had to take up the pad covering the cargo floor. From what I've seen I would think the majority of the DI's have this-the pad material just holds any moisture and lets it sit until rust forms-poor material choice.

The usual trouble areas on DI's from my research are free of problems so this is an odd situation that was caused by a blocked drain tube for the rear sunroof I suspect. The pad was still stuck to the steel by the adhesive applied at the factory so I was the first to open it up.

The undercarriage is very clean. His statement was more to the frame, body mounts and other structural areas that are a much bigger problem if corroded.

Sure it's disappointing to find but I don't blame Dale, he didn't know either and the IIa I bought from him was everything he said and more.

Thanks for the link, good information on the fix.

No, like I said, I wasnt trying to bad mouth him as there are plenty of trucks out there that he has sold that are fantastic but the rust areas on a D1 are well known and common and to claim that a truck is "rust free" is a tall one and if youre going to make that claim, and ask a high price for it, I would hope its 100% accurate. What brought me to the same truck was the rust free claim. Its easy to keep rust from developing if starting with a clean truck, which is what I was interested in doing. To claim that something is truly rust free but not pull the inch thick sound deadening up and check the actual floor (super easy to do in less than 10 minutes time) I would have issues with, but that could just be me. Ive been an MG guy for decades. I have bought and sold numerous ones and have worked on just as many. Rust areas on the MG are well known and checks are as easy as with a Disco. You cant sell one as rust free unless you have gone over it from underneath, poked your hands up into the fenders and felt the shelf and then pulled carpets on the rockers/ sills and toe boards/ floorboards. Then you move to the trunk and tear it apart. Extra 30 mins, tops. A rusted rear floor is a common problem from either leaking sunroof or alpine windows (most common area). The one place that the original RRCs dont rust is the rear load floor as it is made of aluminum from the factory. Common thing in England is to go to the scrap yard and drill the aluminum floor out and placing it into a newer RRC or Disco as a replacement.

I would also now look at the floors in the front from where the windshield seal has allowed water to leak in and be trapped under the sound deadening. I bet youre going to find something there too. Mine had NOTHING from underneath but once the seat was pulled and the carpet/ deadening material was removed completely, there it was. The factory rubber coating on the underside of the truck hid a lot (mine was still glued down also). I ended up throwing the deadening material away, patching, sealing and rubberized undercoating the drivers floor inside and under the panel. There is almost no difference between deadening and non deadening in terms of noise or heat really. I would suggest doing the same thing. These things are going to leak or see water crossings (or at least mine does) and not having the deadening to trap moisture is a pretty great thing and water can be taken care of with a shop vac.

Im guessing youre going to do the Ford injectors then? Do you have emissions inspections in your area. I was reading a thread and PT was saying that the 14 CUX ecu doesnt have the ability to fine tune bigger flow injectors so Im curious as to whether or not that will effect the AFR reading for smog readings. Im not leaking but do have to pass emissions testing so Im always skeptical of using bigger parts on a smaller motor.

 

[Wander]

We do have inspecitions but I think a 94 is exempt-I will check to be sure before I install the 19# injectors.

I am also going to pull the front carpets and pads-just ran out of time this weekend. What did you use to get the front seats out-I found that the bolt under the clamp was blocked just enough by the riser rail to get a socket in.

I just found some scrap from a sheet of aluminum at the office that I used for a work related project earlier this year. I need to measure it out but I think it will be large enough to bolt in the back after I cut out the old floor. I'm kind of bummed about it as I wanted to take my wife and daughter camping this year before it gets too cold/damp. I could not get the pictures to load off my mac this weekend so here they are.

 

[Dendy Jarrett]

Matt: That looks superficial to me. I think I would simply wire wheel that ... spray it with extend rust prohibitor, prime and paint.
OR

Wire wheel, spray with rust inhibitor, and have it rhino lined (or a do it yourself bed liner material. That will protect it and add sound deadening.
It could be a sunday project and you'd be back to camping in a week.

Also, that could simply have been caused by condensation from hot and cold changes in the truck. The carpet trapped the moisture.

Dendy

 

[Wander]

That's what I was hoping Dendy, untill I wire wheeled it. More photos attached.
I just checked the scrap aluminum sheet I have-it's 4x3"3' which should be just about right. Any ideas on a barrier material to put between the Al and the Steel? Should I use some type of rubber or something like a silicone sealent?

 

[ExpoScout]

That's what I was hoping Dendy, untill I wire wheeled it. More photos attached.
I just checked the scrap aluminum sheet I have-it's 4x3"3' which should be just about right. Any ideas on a barrier material to put between the Al and the Steel? Should I use some type of rubber or something like a silicone sealent?

Matt, whatever you do, do not use silicone sealant (RTV) on any of your gaps. It will actually cause the metal to rust even further.

If you need to do any sealing of gaps or what have you, use black window urethane. Comes in a caulk tube and is kind of expensive per tube...but it's made by 3M and it will work wonders. Advance Auto and Napa both sell it I know for a fact.

If you need anymore help don't hesitate to ask. I am like the rust king...the scouts gave me that title. :ylsmoke:

 

[Wander]

Thanks for the suggestion, anything to prevent further rust is very appreciated!

 

[Rovertrader]

Matt- hate to see the rust, but as you said neither you nor I looked under the carpets. I did check from underneath and found no indication, but am human and could have missed it. Anyway, if you feel it in any way was intentional, full refund awaits.

However, as far as Viggen is concerned- just a sad example. Matt found the rust, and you jump to finger pointing, reduced price, etc. Your attitude is very negative. Matt even says you are offbase, and you give it another go. Quite honestly, I am not surprised and Matt did pay less, primarily because you started finger pointing about who got first dibs, and I didn't want any dealings with you. Why not try getting all the facts first, then ask yourself do you even have a dog in the fight before raising cain? This is a build thread for Matt's new truck- address that topic, or refrain or start another appropriate thread. I am here as it is where you started throwing rocks. Am I perfect- absolutely not. Are my trucks- absolutely not. Do I try to do what is right- absolutely, hence MANY repeat customers and most transition to friends. I doubt this will in no affect your perspective, and that is your perogative. But quit being accusatory when it doesn't concern you, and you don't have the facts. Like a $1500 D-I this is supposed to be: 45k motor, tranny service, new headliner, additional set of cloth manual seats, rust free until the bed was discovered. Here is the funny part- the rusty bed is minutia. It has solid doors, bulkhead/firewall, frame, etc- all the expensive & difficult to fix issues. And the rear door inner radius are starting to discolor, but was pointed out as well. Point being, get the data, then make an opinion, then keep it to yourself until solicitted. Lastly, try being responsible instead of always playing the victim. Matt looked at the truck, went home, came back and bought it. I will stand behind it, but in all reality- the buyer is responsible. If our society would take such an aproach and take responsibility instead of crying at every issue they get themselves into, the country would have way fewer problems.

Matt- my apologies for the rant, but felt it applicable given the situation, sorry. Good luck with the truck, and please let me know if I can be of any help- and keep me posted on the rear door card, as I am ready to replace mine.

Jonathon- pm me or give me a call and let's get a day over at Uwharrie- quickly

 

[Wander]

Well let's move on....thanks for the words Dale. I don't think you did anything intentionally and don't hold anything over you. I took the DI to a body guy today to get a quote on having the bed cut out and weld in another. I also have a 4 x 3"3' sheet of aluminum that he is looking at to possibly bolt in. We'll see what he says and I'll go from there. I doubt this will be an expensive repair and I would do it myself but I've got a lot of work travel coming up and I want to get it out before the trails close!

No hard feelings from here Dale. I'm afraid this got me sidetracked on the door panel.

 

[AxeAngel]

Matt, got any more aluminum sheet? I need a 4'by3' piece for my LR on a different project.

Thanks
Sam

 

[Wander]

I don't but I could possibly find some, your in Raleigh right?