Another Ram 3500 build...

Bayou Boy

Adventurer
I do already have the upfitter switches, but the 30”bar from BD is 175 watts/15A and I can just wire it separately.

I'm pretty sure the upfitter relays are 25A each so you can definitely use them for anything up to a decent size compressor. I couldn't imagine a 12v light that would be above 25 amps.
 

blackdmax15

Observer
That’s good news as I really want everything to look clean. Waiting for about 9k back the gov’t currently owes me and then the thread will pick up. Next step will be headlights hi/lows, lux monster rock lights and I believe i’m Going to go with CJC/BD curved 30” bar. Just can’t decide which bar. It’ll be the OnX6 arc but I don’t know if I should grab the dual control bar or the regular one. I like having the amber wide lights and white spot, but running more wires is always a pain. Plus I only have 5 upfitter switches. Planning on 1) Light bar, 2) rock lights, 3) electric front locker, 4) air compressor and leaving one open for future. He dual bar will take up last open spot.

Has anyone used the Amp bed step? I’m a short dude and it may help getting in/out of back.
 

Dalko43

Explorer
I'm pretty sure the upfitter relays are 25A each so you can definitely use them for anything up to a decent size compressor. I couldn't imagine a 12v light that would be above 25 amps.

Where do you get that info for the upfitter switches? I've wondered what their limitation was, but never could find that info.

FWIW, I think the ARB Twin air compressor will draw 56A at max air flow: ARB Twin Air Compressor

Accessories, like winches, would obviously draw a lot more than that. But I don't know if you'd necessarily need a dedicated switch for a winch.
 

Bayou Boy

Adventurer
Where do you get that info for the upfitter switches? I've wondered what their limitation was, but never could find that info.

FWIW, I think the ARB Twin air compressor will draw 56A at max air flow: ARB Twin Air Compressor

Accessories, like winches, would obviously draw a lot more than that. But I don't know if you'd necessarily need a dedicated switch for a winch.

I think it was either in the instructions that were in the bag with the wiring for the relays or I found it in the Ram body builders up fitter website.
 

Kingsize24

Well-known member
This link will take you to everything you need for the upfitter guide. Simply select your vehicle type.

https://www.ramtrucks.com/ram-commercial/body-builders-guide.html


Where do you get that info for the upfitter switches? I've wondered what their limitation was, but never could find that info.

FWIW, I think the ARB Twin air compressor will draw 56A at max air flow: ARB Twin Air Compressor

Accessories, like winches, would obviously draw a lot more than that. But I don't know if you'd necessarily need a dedicated switch for a winch.
 

Bayou Boy

Adventurer
Some of the images on that link are dead so you end up having to google the title of the section and the year of your truck to get an actual PDF. Just a tip.
 

plainjaneFJC

Deplorable
I would be extremely careful tapping anything for a signal with the Rams with the Canbus system. It is extremely sensitive to voltage and amperage and will light up the dash in a second if anything is out of spec. I ordered my truck with the factory aux switches which came with built in 25 amp relays just because I didn't want to have to tap stuff. If someone is buying a new Ram, I'd urge them to do the same. Your heated/cooled seats and steering wheel get moved to the screen but it's only 1 additional button press to activate them. No big deal.
Been there done that. I shorted out a wire on my trailer and it fried the ram system.
 

blackdmax15

Observer
Thanks for that link. I realized I was calling my aux switch panel the upfitter switches. Whoops. Still somewhat confused reading the limitations on amperage. I’ll keep reading though and figure it out. Got the Jeep sold so trying to figure out if i’ll bank the money that I had to spend on my rental houses AC and be back to where I was, or finish the truck completely with “phase one”.
 

Bayou Boy

Adventurer
Yes, rereading that PDF, it is more confusing than not. I say just run it until you blow a fuse, then fix it if necessary.
 

Dalko43

Explorer
Yes, rereading that PDF, it is more confusing than not. I say just run it until you blow a fuse, then fix it if necessary.

So, I don't want to side-track this thread too much but in regards to the aux switches: if you do blow a fuse, can you upgrade or change it out so that you won't have the same problem when trying to turn on an accessory with a high amperage?

I'm just trying to get a feel if the aux switches are suitable for something like an ARB compressor or if the aftermarket SPOD switches give you more flexibility for that type of accessory.
 

ttengineer

Adventurer
Yes, rereading that PDF, it is more confusing than not. I say just run it until you blow a fuse, then fix it if necessary.

So, I don't want to side-track this thread too much but in regards to the aux switches: if you do blow a fuse, can you upgrade or change it out so that you won't have the same problem when trying to turn on an accessory with a high amperage?

I'm just trying to get a feel if the aux switches are suitable for something like an ARB compressor or if the aftermarket SPOD switches give you more flexibility for that type of accessory.

I would think you could swap the fuse out to a larger fuse, as long as it’s reasonable. But if you can’t, the way around it would probably be to have an air tank in the system. That way the compressor isn’t running at full tilt until the tank is drained which should give you a cushion before it draws full amperage.

I don’t know squat about electrical design though. Concrete, framing, dirt work, foundation and structures, I’m your huckleberry. But electricity has always been my foe.

According to this chart the single compressor ckma12, and the dual compressor ckmta12 both draw a fair amount of amperage at max load.

b7a93189464421f63d9fa4b6a9722ee6.png



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
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Bayou Boy

Adventurer
So, I don't want to side-track this thread too much but in regards to the aux switches: if you do blow a fuse, can you upgrade or change it out so that you won't have the same problem when trying to turn on an accessory with a high amperage?

I'm just trying to get a feel if the aux switches are suitable for something like an ARB compressor or if the aftermarket SPOD switches give you more flexibility for that type of accessory.

In my opinion, I like the factory switches because they are factory. They look 100% right because they aren't added on. If I add anything that won't run through the factory relay, I'll just use the aux switch to switch a larger relay and fuse that can handle the load. Every added on switch setup, no matter how clean the install, still looks added on and not factory to me. I like a factory look.
 

Bayou Boy

Adventurer
On another note, there is no way they are large enough to handle my Puma Compressor. It needed a 60 amp fuse. But then I can run an impact gun with it. I don't know about the ARB.
 

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