I feel like all of these Ram build threads have really turned into a repository of super valuable conversation and information about upfitting these trucks for travel the way we do. This isn't my thread, but I definitely welcome these frequent side bars about specific topics.
Another Ram 3500 build...
- Thread starter blackdmax15
- Start date
I feel like all of these Ram build threads have really turned into a repository of super valuable conversation and information about upfitting these trucks for travel the way we do. This isn't my thread, but I definitely welcome these frequent side bars about specific topics.
So I guess that's my question. Using your Puma Compressor as an example, how do you plan on powering that? Did you connect the aux switch to a bigger fuse as you mentioned previously?
Kingsize24
Well-known member
I will say, I have the aux switches, and upfitter package. Although I do have many options avaliable, the factory options will not carry more than a 30amp load. And even then there are only two positions for a 30amp load.
I will be using my S-Pod for the heavy loads like compressors, refrigerators, inverters, etc. The other items like lights, etc that don't require a heavy load over 30 amps will be used through my aux switches.
I will be using my S-Pod for the heavy loads like compressors, refrigerators, inverters, etc. The other items like lights, etc that don't require a heavy load over 30 amps will be used through my aux switches.
I left on a trip today and didn’t have time to mountit so I have 15ft of 8awg connected to the passenger side battery under the hood with an Anderson connector in the mix. Actually with the dual Cummins battery setup, I can remove all 4 wheels with the impact gun and then reinforce the two low tires from the rotation without affecting the battery voltage any as measured from a voltmeter with a hundredths of a volt measurement. That’s with the engine off. Impressive from the Advance Auto AGMs I have installed.
What fridge requires over 30 amps? Mine is connected directly to my aux battery with 10awg and an SAE connector. I just unplug it if I want it off. There is never a scenario when I’d need to turn it off from the cabin. And if I want to turn it on, I need to verify the temp setting anyway.
Kingsize24
Well-known member
Well I don't have room left after lights on the AUX switches, so it is basically going there by default. And the SPod will kill it if my amperage gets too low to still allow the truck to start. So it is going there for protection more than amperage; correct.
blackdmax15
Observer
Bayou, i’m all about passing information so it’s value added and not a derail. Thanks guys i’m pretty sure that the OnX6 light bar is a 15A total, so if I get the dual control it should cut that power into 5A for the spot and 10A for the floods on the outside. That should be well under 25/30A limit of the six switches.
blackdmax15
Observer
So waiting to pull the trigger on lighting. I am very underwhelmed by headlights. Options are as follows: 1) Headlight revolution LED hi/lows (+400$) and maybe do a LED bar, 2) Retro Shop full HID projector replacements (+1800$) and no aux bar/pods, 3) Keep factory lights and add a BD light bar 30” OnX6 dual control (+1300$), 4) Keep factory headlights and do a pair of BD Squadron Pro wide driving lights and a 20” OnX6 high output bar on the 4x4 fabworks mount (1500$).
I like the idea of just the headlights from retro shop because of the useable light and ability to upgrade later “if” I need more lighting off-road plus less lights keeping the truck looking factory. Option 4 keeps simplicity and adds insane light for same price as retro shop lights. Option 1 may solve all of my lighting issues for less money, and Option 3 is still somewhat simple with Amber and white combo lights, but still have ************ factory lows (highs are descent).
First truck is my current front end next to my buddies Ford he just had the Carli back country put on and 35” Toyo RTs. Other truck is Austin at CJC. He has projectors, 30” curved BD bar and the squadron pro Fogs in Amber.
I like the idea of just the headlights from retro shop because of the useable light and ability to upgrade later “if” I need more lighting off-road plus less lights keeping the truck looking factory. Option 4 keeps simplicity and adds insane light for same price as retro shop lights. Option 1 may solve all of my lighting issues for less money, and Option 3 is still somewhat simple with Amber and white combo lights, but still have ************ factory lows (highs are descent).
First truck is my current front end next to my buddies Ford he just had the Carli back country put on and 35” Toyo RTs. Other truck is Austin at CJC. He has projectors, 30” curved BD bar and the squadron pro Fogs in Amber.
Attachments
blackdmax15
Observer
So have a few items still left to go on. “Working” all weekend so won’t be able to finish all the items at hand. Mounted the factory LED bed lights. Super easy as wiring was already done. Put black quad head lights on and the Supernova V3 LED lights in as well. I got them from Headlight Revolution. I really wanted the full HID projector retrofit kit from Retro Source, but they were more than double the price of what I did instead. Lights seem to be pretty descent and a good upgrade. The Black oem headlights were purely for looks, and maybe I can sell the other ones to recoup some cash. 
blackdmax15
Observer
First photo is factory low beams. Second is upgraded high beams, third is upgraded low beams only.
blackdmax15
Observer
First pic is Bed lighting from the new LED cargo lights. Second is the cargo lights from behind and third is the new black headlamps. I’ll get more daytime pics tomorrow.
blackdmax15
Observer
Little progress done. Put the 1”block in the rear yesterday and dropped the truck off at Loose Cannon Customs in Santee, CA to have them install the badges. After seeing all of the “how to” YouTube vids I decided to just pay. They gave me an unbelievable price on the install of the 6 badges and then discounted it without me asking. Also attached is the black quad headlight housings. Very happy with the new stance and look.
blackdmax15
Observer
All, long time with no updates. Truck is still running strong. Due to my job I'm often extremely busy and haven't been able to explore as much of SoCal as I would have liked. Working on trying to find an electronic front locker. I'm about to pull the trigger on 4.30 gears and figured I'd do a front locker while I was in there to augment the rear LSD. My gear vendor says he can't find one and only knows of the ARB after I tasked him out to search. I know some guys had used the power wagon locker in the past, but apparently they don't have any in the system even though there is still a part number. I know ARBs are solid, I just really don't want to deal with the complexity of air lines and having to get a compressor as I already have CO2 in the bed for my air requirements. It wouldn't hurt to have a back up if required, but I don't see needing it other than to just run the front locker (that I probably honestly don't need either). Any thoughts or opinions?
I've also sold the diamondback HD and got a backflip MX4 tonneau cover. So far it's good I just need to fix the leaking rail but that's on me not the product. Attached are some photos so you reading my diatribe is worthwhile.
I've also sold the diamondback HD and got a backflip MX4 tonneau cover. So far it's good I just need to fix the leaking rail but that's on me not the product. Attached are some photos so you reading my diatribe is worthwhile.
