Any 12V power packs like this in the US?

[saburai]

Good work

I dont know how... but...i (no electrical experience) actually understand that diagram ! Excellent work !

I would love a list as well. Thats a great idea.

rob

Yeah Rob I agree! I have a bit of electrical know how (a little bit can be dangerous! LOL). Very nice write up!

Gene, if you keep making post like this you will be a popular guy around here:sombrero:

 

[rugbier]

Wrangler NW is exactly that set up and you can purchase everything you need to install a Dual Battery Management Kit

Of course no afiliation with WNW

 

[saburai]

Wrangler NW is exactly that set up and you can purchase everything you need to install a Dual Battery Management Kit

Of course no afiliation with WNW

Linkage?

 

[tremors834]

Wrangler North West
Many of the electrical components can be purchased from them.
Or as follows-
The Box is made by MTM its the sportsmans SPUD2 dry box. It can be found here http://www.northwestshootersupply.com/mtmsportsmanplusdryboxspud-1-11forestgreen-2-1.aspx

The 200 amp solenoid

Manual Reset Circuit Breaker

Disconnects

Power Point

I cant remember exactly where I got the voltmeter. I'm sure you can find one by googling it.
The switch and LEDS are seperate pieces and were purchased locally at Radio Shack.
Hope this all helps.
Gene

 

[saburai]

Gene - many thanks:wings:

I'll be taking a look at the links later...

Thanks again!

 

[ldivinag]

tremors...

killer setup. couple questions though.

1. how is the battery box mounted? is it secured? or just sitting there?

2. your 3 position switch. i take the it position 1, is wired when the key ignition switch is on the ON position? i guess the only diff between #1 and #3 is that if #3, it immediately connects the 2 batts together, no matter if the key is on or not?

 

[tremors834]

1. how is the battery box mounted? is it secured? or just sitting there?

In that picture it is just sitting there. I started using "E track" and clip to strap it down. I've since removed the "E" track and am starting to fabricate a cargo shelf/drawer system.

2. your 3 position switch. i take the it position 1, is wired when the key ignition switch is on the ON position? i guess the only diff between #1 and #3 is that if #3, it immediately connects the 2 batts together, no matter if the key is on or not?

Thats correct. Position 1 would normal operating position. 2 would be where the batteries are isolated from each other, regardless of the ignition switch position. 3 is basically an emergency jump start. It take power directly from the aux battery to power the solenoid.

 

[bobholthaus]

Tremors- awesome diagram. Thank you for taking the time to do that. Two questions: 1. I thought the relay/solenoid was a "one way" deal. That doesn't seem to be the case here. So if one battery is lower than the other, they will both equalize when the switch is on. 2. Why do you need a fuse b/w the auxbattery and inverter? I thought you could wire that directly. Thanks Again. I'm starting my portable build this week.

 

[tremors834]

Tremors- awesome diagram. Thank you for taking the time to do that. Two questions: 1. I thought the relay/solenoid was a "one way" deal. That doesn't seem to be the case here. So if one battery is lower than the other, they will both equalize when the switch is on.

That's why it's designed so that in normal "ON- Switch up" operation the solenoid is only energized (contacts closed) when the ignition is on (engine running) and the alternator can charge the batteries. Equalization of the batteries is not an issue.
When the ignition is off and the engine is not running. The solenoid is de-energized and the contacts open, isolating the batteries and preventing them to equalize.
When the switch is in the emergency jump / down position, the solenoid is energized regardless if the engine is running or not. It's only used to "jump start" the main battery should it be too far depleted to start the engine.
Maybe your thinking of a diode type battery isolator? They allow current to flow only one way.

2. Why do you need a fuse b/w the auxbattery and inverter? I thought you could wire that directly. Thanks Again. I'm starting my portable build this week.

Call it redundancy .
Usually if the connections for the inverter is a long run of wire, you'll want want a fuse inline.
Even though it's a short (approx 1 ft) run of wire between the inverter and the battery, I feel better having it there. Especially since theres a lot of bouncing and vibrations off pavement. Perhaps an accidental loose electrical connection popping off and shorting. Or the wires coming out of the box could accidentally rub against something that I load in the cargo area.

Hope this is helpful info.

 

[bobholthaus]

Ah, got it. Thanks again for taking the time to write. I was thinking of the one-way diode type isolator. I bought my Diehard Platinum battery today!!

 

[Lance4me]

Nice, I'm going to build one soon.

 

[Lance4me]

Gene, do you remember what's the total cost of it?
Ken

 

[tremors834]

Total cost was in the vicinity of $200 not including the battery. Biggest expense (other than battery) is the solenoid at about $50 and the heavy gauge wiring. I got a lot of the parts from Waytek and McMastercarr.

 

[Lance4me]

I wonder is that your rig across the street from where my sister-in-law used to live (Stratford Ct).

 

[Deleted member 9101]

checkhttp://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/newreply.php?do=newreply&p=400527 out west marine. that looks vaguely familiar, might have seen it there.

Thats exactly what I was thinking!!!