Any 7.3 gasser owners?

tacollie

Glamper
I’ll be your huckle bearer! I don’t mind used trucks at all, but with the mileage I drive I’d be replacing them far too often if I didn’t start at new. That said you won’t catch me dead in an 11-16 gasser. I prefer trucks that can get out of their own way. The 17+ 6.2 was a big improvement over the initial offering.
I agree with all that. The 6.2 has adequate power but it's not particularly fast. It's pretty sensitive to octane.

Our truck was a Texas truck. The original owner put 86k miles on it in under 2 years. In 3.5 years we've added 32k because we only use it to carry our camper.
 

TexasSixSeven

Observer
I agree with all that. The 6.2 has adequate power but it's not particularly fast. It's pretty sensitive to octane.

Our truck was a Texas truck. The original owner put 86k miles on it in under 2 years. In 3.5 years we've added 32k because we only use it to carry our camper.
The lower torque curve of the 17+ 6.2 makes it a much better driving experience. It’s not fast by any means, but you dont have to hammer it to make it get out of its way.
 

IdaSHO

IDACAMPER
A bit more power is never a problem. But considering what you drive and the mods you have, don't kid yourself that it has anything to do with saving money.
And if you really wanted power you wouldn't be driving a gasser to begin with, especially on on 37's :ROFLMAO:

The 2011-2016 6.2 is no slouch and should be a consideration, especially if you are looking for a solid platform and to save money.
We routinely run some of the steepest grades in the country here in North Idaho, scaled at 11k+ and never a problem holding the speed limit.
How fast do you really want to go?
 

TexasSixSeven

Observer
A bit more power is never a problem. But considering what you drive and the mods you have, don't kid yourself that it has anything to do with saving money.
And if you really wanted power you wouldn't be driving a gasser to begin with, especially on on 37's :ROFLMAO:

The 2011-2016 6.2 is no slouch and should be a consideration, especially if you are looking for a solid platform and to save money.
We routinely run some of the steepest grades in the country here in North Idaho, scaled at 11k+ and never a problem holding the speed limit.
How fast do you really want to go?
I never once said it was about saving money. Actually I said the opposite. I’ll spend good money not to drive a 11-16 6.2 regardless of how cheap they can be found. I’d still be in a diesel if the EPA wasn’t cracking down emissions modifications. Money has nothing to do with it. Reliability does
 

IdaSHO

IDACAMPER
So is it about reliability or power?
Make up your mind :unsure:

And do explain how a low mileage used 2011-2016 6.2 is more reliable than a low mileage used 2017+ 6.2.

Im terribly curious.

That said you won’t catch me dead in an 11-16 gasser. I prefer trucks that can get out of their own way. The 17+ 6.2 was a big improvement over the initial offering.
 

IdaSHO

IDACAMPER
5star tuning on my last 6.2 did made a difference

What year was your truck?

There do seem to be enough differences pre 2017 to 2017+ that tuning makes a solid difference. Last I checked the dyno to the wheel difference was primarily related to the trans, specifically the torque converter differences. Obviously the 10-speed will make better use of available power than the 6-speed, but it seems tuning improvements in the later converter makes a big difference. Tuning in the pre 2017 trucks didnt seem anywhere worth it to me, simple cost benefit analysis ;)

And remember, most time/miles will be spent at essentially the same speed on the highway. Peak hp/tq specs make essentially zero difference in these cases. Unless you are pushing max hp/tq all the time, and “need” more. Which is beyond hard to imagine.
 

rruff

Explorer
That said you won’t catch me dead in an 11-16 gasser. I prefer trucks that can get out of their own way.
It's always nice to have more, but all the semi modern V8s in 1/2-1 tons have plenty of power to haul a camper and not slow down traffic. The rating is 385hp for all of the 6.2s. 17+ has a bit more torque. Specs are almost identical to my truck with the 5.7L. Same number of gears too.

HP is what gets you up a steep grade at high speed, or lets you accelerate quickly. TQ is nice for chugging around at low rpm and minimal shifting. I'll take HP any day if there is a trade off... just let it rev.

I don't know if Ford's stock shift programming and throttle curve are as anemic as mine, but adjusting these two things make a world of difference on my truck.

1) Throttle controller. Should be able to find decent new ones for $150 or so. I have a Hike It X5. The stock Tundra mapping is for supposed "economy" but all it really does is make your V8 feel like a little 4 cyl. If you push the pedal down ~3/4 of its travel, you get maybe 1/4 of the engine (throttle opening). Then from 3/4 to full pedal it ramps up 1/4 to full engine... and if you are in that range at low speed, then the tires spin and the traction control kicks in. It was annoying AF! The controller just lets you adjust the pedal vs throttle relationship to taste. Huge improvement... and no detriment to fuel use at all.

2) Engage Tow/Haul mode. I think all trucks have something like this. It makes the throttle curve more like it should have been in the first place, and also changes shifting... firmer engagement, higher rpm before shifts, less shifting period and favors keeping the rpm up when cruising. Also, when you mash the pedal it downshifts to the proper gear instantly. The ability to accelerate from 70 to 90 when I need to is impressive, even with my "weak" engine. I only use this when highway cruising as it makes the throttle too sensitive when combined with the controller. If I didn't need to push a button to engage T/H every time I start the truck, then I could have lived without the throttle controller, I think.
 

IdaSHO

IDACAMPER
Tow/haul modes on both 6-speed and 10-speed fords make a huge difference. And both offer manual shift and gear lock-out.

Loaded heavy in mountain country, I use tow-haul regularly, mainly to save on brakes, as it provides earlier, more aggressive downshifts.

Upper gear lockout I use as well, to keep the trans from hunting depending upon engine load and speed. Running 35’s and factory 3:73s, the truck can rarely use 6th gear anyhow, unless on the flats.

Manual shift I essentially never use. Ive tried it on long hauls to see if I could squeeze any additional MPG, but no discernible difference.
 

Skinhyfish

Observer
It's always nice to have more, but all the semi modern V8s in 1/2-1 tons have plenty of power to haul a camper and not slow down traffic. The rating is 385hp for all of the 6.2s. 17+ has a bit more torque. Specs are almost identical to my truck with the 5.7L. Same number of gears too.

HP is what gets you up a steep grade at high speed, or lets you accelerate quickly. TQ is nice for chugging around at low rpm and minimal shifting. I'll take HP any day if there is a trade off... just let it rev.

I don't know if Ford's stock shift programming and throttle curve are as anemic as mine, but adjusting these two things make a world of difference on my truck.

1) Throttle controller. Should be able to find decent new ones for $150 or so. I have a Hike It X5. The stock Tundra mapping is for supposed "economy" but all it really does is make your V8 feel like a little 4 cyl. If you push the pedal down ~3/4 of its travel, you get maybe 1/4 of the engine (throttle opening). Then from 3/4 to full pedal it ramps up 1/4 to full engine... and if you are in that range at low speed, then the tires spin and the traction control kicks in. It was annoying AF! The controller just lets you adjust the pedal vs throttle relationship to taste. Huge improvement... and no detriment to fuel use at all.

2) Engage Tow/Haul mode. I think all trucks have something like this. It makes the throttle curve more like it should have been in the first place, and also changes shifting... firmer engagement, higher rpm before shifts, less shifting period and favors keeping the rpm up when cruising. Also, when you mash the pedal it downshifts to the proper gear instantly. The ability to accelerate from 70 to 90 when I need to is impressive, even with my "weak" engine. I only use this when highway cruising as it makes the throttle too sensitive when combined with the controller. If I didn't need to push a button to engage T/H every time I start the truck, then I could have lived without the throttle controller, I think.

I ran in tow haul in my Tundra almost everyday. Better throttle response and driving in mountains. I was regeared to 5.29 also. That was the best money for the tundra I spent.

If the tundra could carry the weight as good as the ford I would have rather drive tundra. Power was there. To much flex and not so good breaking. Still going to regret selling it.
 

rruff

Explorer
I ran in tow haul in my Tundra almost everyday.
Yes... I think 99% of us would prefer to have this always on. The aggravating and dangerous aspect is that you have to push a button after every start. So sometimes you forget to turn it on or turn it off... which means the response of the throttle can be very different than what you expect.
 

tacollie

Glamper
I ran in tow haul in my Tundra almost everyday. Better throttle response and driving in mountains. I was regeared to 5.29 also. That was the best money for the tundra I spent.

If the tundra could carry the weight as good as the ford I would have rather drive tundra. Power was there. To much flex and not so good breaking. Still going to regret selling it.
I get the Tundra sentiment. It felt a lot smaller than our F250 even though it wasn't. Probably because it was lighter. I spent as much money on the Tundra making it able to carry the weight as I spent on the F250 to make it eat up washboard. With the Carli stuff in the front I get way more articulation out of the F250 than I ever did out of the Tundra. I have 4.30s sitting the shop waiting to get installed. 3.73 are dogs with big tires and a camper. Especially at altitude in Colorado.
 

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