Oil Town XJ
New member
No instructions came with the flares and they sent me the wrong mounting hardware. I've been trying to get a hold of them for a week, but there vm is full!
I cut about an 1.5" past the spot weld
Anyone doing an XJ highline Low COG build?
- Thread starter BIGdaddy
- Start date
No instructions came with the flares and they sent me the wrong mounting hardware. I've been trying to get a hold of them for a week, but there vm is full!
I cut about an 1.5" past the spot weld
Black Dog
Makin' Beer.
I just watched a youtube video from Iceland Offroad of them demonstrating the strength of their flares by driving an XJ over it and it came out spotless. Thats pretty impressive, but I wonder how well they would up to getting crushed by a hard granite edge? Dings and scratches happen, but I wonder if it would break or tear.
gasman
Adventurer
wjeeper
Active member
He doesn't have a build thread anywhere. But this is basically his build up.......
RE 4.5" lift with full packs
RE control arm drop brackets
RE control arms
RE trackbar
10"x2.5" FOA's up front (remote resi)
16"x2.0" FOA's out back (remote resi)
Rear "bed cage" (shocks mount through the rear wheel wells)
Prothane Bumpstops in front
Dana 44 rear with a lunchbox locker
HP Dana 30 (trussed)
hanemans front fenders
Corbeau seats up fron
bfg 33x10.5x15
Ridden in it a few times, great DD for the street good in the dirt at speed.........oh and it lands smooth when you jump it over the train tracks and on other urban jumps:sombrero:
Vid of playing up at the V
Random vid of his race truck
If you have any questions I can answer them or PM you his e-mail
wjeeper
Active member
Iceland Offroad is local to Utah and I have seen their rig on local trails and they scraped and smashed the flares on some rocks and they held up better than the sheet metal around them. (I will see if I can find some pics) I was really impressed with the quality.
ThePartyWagon
Active member
This product would be helpful for a LCOG XJ. Anyone seen these?
http://tntcustoms.com/innerfenderpanels.aspx
http://tntcustoms.com/innerfenderpanels.aspx
offthebeatenpath
Adventurer
I really dig those Iceland fenders- I've never seen them before.
As to the low COG build, it obviously makes sense. I had 33's on my TJ before we sold that, with only a 2" budget boost lift and no other mods. It takes much more to fit 33's under an XJ, but mostly because of the sheet metal. Most (that's MOST, not ALL) of the guys on NAXJA that roll on 33's fit them on with a 3.5"+ lift. Only the 3.5 RE lift comes close enough to clearing 33's without much trimming, but not if you're running aftermarket bumpers and other added weight. Most of the others run a 4" or more.
Like I said, it only makes sense, but I never really took it into consideration as I've been thinking about fitting larger rubbers under mine. It would be great to be able to keep my 3" lift and save some dough in the process. I would say, that going with something like a 2-3" OME lift that gives you the stronger coils and leafs would be the way to go. Especially because the stock XJ leafs tend to sag and even warp a bit under normal road usage. A lot of flexing and mild abuse would probably send them over the edge. Keep in mind (if I recall) that the XJ is only rated as a 1/4 ton vehicle from the factory. That's easy to exceed if you're loaded up for a week in the wild.
One of the things I'd be curious about is what amount of back spacing on the wheels would work the best with those Iceland flares. Would you want them to be able to tuck under, or is further out better since you've got to cut sheet metal to mount them anyway?
As to the low COG build, it obviously makes sense. I had 33's on my TJ before we sold that, with only a 2" budget boost lift and no other mods. It takes much more to fit 33's under an XJ, but mostly because of the sheet metal. Most (that's MOST, not ALL) of the guys on NAXJA that roll on 33's fit them on with a 3.5"+ lift. Only the 3.5 RE lift comes close enough to clearing 33's without much trimming, but not if you're running aftermarket bumpers and other added weight. Most of the others run a 4" or more.
Like I said, it only makes sense, but I never really took it into consideration as I've been thinking about fitting larger rubbers under mine. It would be great to be able to keep my 3" lift and save some dough in the process. I would say, that going with something like a 2-3" OME lift that gives you the stronger coils and leafs would be the way to go. Especially because the stock XJ leafs tend to sag and even warp a bit under normal road usage. A lot of flexing and mild abuse would probably send them over the edge. Keep in mind (if I recall) that the XJ is only rated as a 1/4 ton vehicle from the factory. That's easy to exceed if you're loaded up for a week in the wild.
One of the things I'd be curious about is what amount of back spacing on the wheels would work the best with those Iceland flares. Would you want them to be able to tuck under, or is further out better since you've got to cut sheet metal to mount them anyway?
BigDaveZJ
Adventurer
Stumpalump
Expedition Leader
I crack up at all the hacked up XJ's. There is no need to cut the fenders past the spot welds. The metal is super malable and you can tap the sheet metal way up beyond that. The inner fenders are the same. The problem area there is where the battery sits and behind the front tire. Just keep beating it up for max tire clearance while making sure the battery will still fit and the hood will close. All the metal is soft and malable and reforms easy and nice with repeted taps with the hammer of your choice. Just do it slow. The problem area on the rear is by the door opening. Place a 1/8" spacer in the opening and you can tap that area of the quarter to within as much clearance as those with a cutoff wheel and a welder. The top can be bent and reformed way up also. Don't cut it past the spot welds.
After that is the single most important thing. Setting your bumpstop height.
After that is the single most important thing. Setting your bumpstop height.
BEVAN
Adventurer
http://www.rocklizardfabrications.com/home_brew_budget_boost.htm
Could do this lift and with trimming run 33's. I have this lift on my 01 xj, awsome ride and no sag from the rear leaf even with a load of gear and trailer.
I spent a total of 67.00 building it.
Could do this lift and with trimming run 33's. I have this lift on my 01 xj, awsome ride and no sag from the rear leaf even with a load of gear and trailer.
I spent a total of 67.00 building it.
This is important, I need to do a little myself. I also need to cut and fold that little seam up front because my tires hit it when its stuffed.
Black Dog
Makin' Beer.
2" and trimming with 33s might be stuffing a lot of tire into a small space, but I don't see any reason why it wouldn't work. The bump stops everyone is talking about would be your key to success in this situation to keep from getting rubbage. But the thing with bump stops is you are limiting your articulation, so if you get in a weird spot where you need the flex but don't have it because of the bump stops then you might end up with a tire that is way up high in the air where it isn't getting traction and isn't doing you any good.
31's with minor trimming. 33's with Major trimming and bumpstops.