Hi guys, I just got my titan solar generator. I have two batteries. I charged both individually with wall chargers per the instructions, then told the battery meter I had 148AH of capacity; hooked it all up and the display reads 0v and 0% but turns on. I tested each battery with a voltmeter and each shows 29.1x volts. Anyone have any experience with these? They are closed for the weekend and I want to play with my new toy!
Anyone Have The Titan Solar Generator?
- Thread starter fcmisc
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**Please** do not buy into that deceptive marketing doublespeak term "generator".
It is a portable powerpack
basically a packaged battery bank in a box with some combination of shore power charger, solar controller, inverter, maybe DCDC circuitry and some wiring / connecting ports / switches / gauges etc.
It in no way "generates" any power, nor is it a substitute for an actual (fossil fuel powered) generator.
I am not at all saying this class of products is "bad", but the whole market segment is aimed at people who don't know much, and they are very rarely good value for money compared to just purchasing the components individually.
It is a portable powerpack
basically a packaged battery bank in a box with some combination of shore power charger, solar controller, inverter, maybe DCDC circuitry and some wiring / connecting ports / switches / gauges etc.
It in no way "generates" any power, nor is it a substitute for an actual (fossil fuel powered) generator.
I am not at all saying this class of products is "bad", but the whole market segment is aimed at people who don't know much, and they are very rarely good value for money compared to just purchasing the components individually.
Hi John,
I completely understand it is not a generator in any way. It was a very cost effective way to power my slide in camper, and my 5th wheel, with an exceptional 2k watt of solar input, 3k watt inverter, and stackable, expandable batteries. I'm sure a DIY-er could make the world go round a few times for what a guy like me paid for it, but I plug it in, and its done, which is pretty nice. If I thought it was a "generator" I would not have purchased my 28 pound yamaha gas generator, and solar to charge it. I do not feel deceived yet.
Anyway, for anyone who runs across this in the future, you have to set the max voltage to 28.7 instead of 29 which is what it was originally configured for. Plugged in and works great.
I completely understand it is not a generator in any way. It was a very cost effective way to power my slide in camper, and my 5th wheel, with an exceptional 2k watt of solar input, 3k watt inverter, and stackable, expandable batteries. I'm sure a DIY-er could make the world go round a few times for what a guy like me paid for it, but I plug it in, and its done, which is pretty nice. If I thought it was a "generator" I would not have purchased my 28 pound yamaha gas generator, and solar to charge it. I do not feel deceived yet.
Anyway, for anyone who runs across this in the future, you have to set the max voltage to 28.7 instead of 29 which is what it was originally configured for. Plugged in and works great.
Yes, I am not accusing you of the ignorance the vendors prey upon, just discouraging those who know better, from adopting the deceptive terminology for these
portable powerpacks.
These units do look better than most, at least the batteries are modules thus replaceable as they wear out, as opposed to tossing out the whole thing.
Glad you found a solution.
For those that are interested, this thread would be a good location for summaries of technical details and comments comparing to other credible examples of the genre.
For example, what is the LI cell chemistry used by their proprietary modules / packs and their internal native voltage?
Is it possible to add sets of generic LI packs at the same voltage to expand the overall Ah capacity, or have they added proprietary codes to the modules' BMS comms to force the use of their modules only?
portable powerpacks.
These units do look better than most, at least the batteries are modules thus replaceable as they wear out, as opposed to tossing out the whole thing.
Glad you found a solution.
For those that are interested, this thread would be a good location for summaries of technical details and comments comparing to other credible examples of the genre.
For example, what is the LI cell chemistry used by their proprietary modules / packs and their internal native voltage?
Is it possible to add sets of generic LI packs at the same voltage to expand the overall Ah capacity, or have they added proprietary codes to the modules' BMS comms to force the use of their modules only?
@john yes you can add lithium batteries of different brands. The 6k watt surge inverter (3k watt consistent) will start and run two AC systems on my 5th wheel. They use non proprietary connection for expansion, solar, batteries, etc and are under rated and charged to a lower voltage to get 5000+ cycles which have been well tested by the preppier guys. It was by far the most convenient, and cost effective way to plug in and power up two different travel rigs; a large fifth wheel and a small off road camper.
I don't have an opinion personally on it yet until I give it some time. It certainly isn't pretty and packaged like a yeti, but that was not my main concern.
I don't have an opinion personally on it yet until I give it some time. It certainly isn't pretty and packaged like a yeti, but that was not my main concern.
Alloy
Well-known member
Our AC draws 1600watts when running. With 2 batteries ($4400.00) we could run 1 AC unit for 2 hours.
My buddy tried to run both of his AC off a 30amp RV plug and ended up melting the receptacle and the cord end together.
The Titan battery packs only have a 1 year warranty.
Yes aircon is only practical off grid from a real genset.
A big enough bank can be used to reduce its runtime duty cycle a bit though, and that certainly may result in a cost savings over the years
Not so much in reduced wear & tear unless full timing, but in fuel consumption, ensuring a constant load.
A big enough bank can be used to reduce its runtime duty cycle a bit though, and that certainly may result in a cost savings over the years
Not so much in reduced wear & tear unless full timing, but in fuel consumption, ensuring a constant load.
Sounds like your buddy has a badly setup system if its drawing more than 30a through a 30a cord without tripping a breaker. Our rig will shut off the fridge and water heater to kick them over to propane if the load is too high for the type of connection your on, which it auto detects.
Time will tell how the titan works out. I didn't buy it for AC, but its nice to be able to run AC for the pup for a while while we're out. Now with 2x20amp fast charger that come with it, I can plug into any family member or friend's normal 110 receptacle and easily power everything in the RV. Between the solar and the 110 plugs, we can plug into any normal house, and have power like we're on a 30a connection. The fast chargers automatically turn off when charged up.
Microwave, coffee maker, and all appliances work without firing up a 5500w onan in the 5th wheel which is noisy. In the slide in camper, the very small yamaha (28 lbs) is just there to recharge it when the solar isn't enough, but we still have a full range of power via a 3000 watt, 6000 watt surge system that literally just plugs in. To move between the camper and the 5th wheel is a matter of unplugging and plugging into the other one. For us, it was a no brainer.
Time will tell how the titan works out. I didn't buy it for AC, but its nice to be able to run AC for the pup for a while while we're out. Now with 2x20amp fast charger that come with it, I can plug into any family member or friend's normal 110 receptacle and easily power everything in the RV. Between the solar and the 110 plugs, we can plug into any normal house, and have power like we're on a 30a connection. The fast chargers automatically turn off when charged up.
Microwave, coffee maker, and all appliances work without firing up a 5500w onan in the 5th wheel which is noisy. In the slide in camper, the very small yamaha (28 lbs) is just there to recharge it when the solar isn't enough, but we still have a full range of power via a 3000 watt, 6000 watt surge system that literally just plugs in. To move between the camper and the 5th wheel is a matter of unplugging and plugging into the other one. For us, it was a no brainer.
Alloy
Well-known member
He has two 13.5btu AC which are 10-11amps each. RV plug fires are common. Breakers don't prevent them.
From what I understand the Titan is not designed to be charged from more (solar and 110v) than 1 source at a time.
If we try to run 3 ac's on a 30a it just trips the breaker; the initial surge is much more than 10a. I also use a soft start. A properly sized breaker will prevent current from exceeding the cord's capability. Again, his is badly setup and that has nothing to do with the Titan.
That's not the case, it can wall charge, and charge from solar at the same time. I'm not like the Titan's biggest fan or anything; I only just got it so I'll reserve judgement until I have facts. I do think we should post accurate information. It can take up to 2000watts of solar, or a combo of solar and shore power up to 40 amps.
RV plug fires (and many other electrical fires) are not always caused by excessive current. That's a big reason why the breakers don't always get triggered. MANY electrical fires started at connections are caused by "thermal runaway" and not from too much current. It's a basic feedback loop that's started by electrical resistance at the connection point.
It goes like this;
A loose connection, or some corrosion on the contacts create electrical resistance...
resistance creates heat...
heat increases electrical resistance
more electrical resistance creates more heat...
And there's your loop that spirals up until something melts, or catches fire. The main circuit itself is still is just drawing it's normal amperage.
It goes like this;
A loose connection, or some corrosion on the contacts create electrical resistance...
resistance creates heat...
heat increases electrical resistance
more electrical resistance creates more heat...
And there's your loop that spirals up until something melts, or catches fire. The main circuit itself is still is just drawing it's normal amperage.
Pretty basic that as it gets hot, it pulls more current and trips the breaker. That's, you know, the whole point of a breaker, to trip at a certain current. Current = amps. If it doesn't trip, its exactly what I said, a bad setup.
I'm not sure how this has anything to do with the Titan, or the fact that it runs 4 different AC units on two different rigs without lighting us on fire. 5 years full time, 3 rigs, no fires. Thank you for the information though.
I'm not sure how this has anything to do with the Titan, or the fact that it runs 4 different AC units on two different rigs without lighting us on fire. 5 years full time, 3 rigs, no fires. Thank you for the information though.
vintageracer
To Infinity and Beyond!
It's not just the electrical cord or plug you have to worry about.
Don't forgit about a potential defective battery!
This is what happens when a 2 month old defective Continental Brand Battery internally shorts out as determined by a C&O (Cause and Origin) Fire Investigator causing my wife's 1967 Corvette to burn up in a garage fire last July 2020.
Yes that's my wifes Corvette she owned for over 30 years that's now gone up in SMOKE!
Don't forgit about a potential defective battery!
This is what happens when a 2 month old defective Continental Brand Battery internally shorts out as determined by a C&O (Cause and Origin) Fire Investigator causing my wife's 1967 Corvette to burn up in a garage fire last July 2020.
Yes that's my wifes Corvette she owned for over 30 years that's now gone up in SMOKE!
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Pulls less current actually. That's why the breaker doesn't trip even when the RV plug is burning hot.
Here's a guy who took time to make a video explaining it.
Loose Electrical Connections and Heat | Master Samurai Tech
Learn how loose electrical connections produce heat and affect current flow in a circuit from the experts at Master Samurai Tech.
mastersamuraitech.com
I have to admit I myself never took the time to note the specifics. Until now, while I knew the Amps didn't increase, I mistakenly assumed the amperage stayed even. (Even though I also know it HAD to change because of ohms law)
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