Are Non-Genuine OE Lower Control Arms Acceptable?

[Ian_Barry]

My other concern is strengthening a part designed to be soft and re-directing strain to a part that wasn't designed to withstand it. For example I used poly exhaust bushings on a Nissan I used to drive to reduce exhaust sway and ultimately cracked the exhaust piping at the hanger, because that was now the weakest point.

Full disclosure: I have not done a FEA on the LCA so it's simply an observation; these are stout control arms. I'm not remotely concerned about the impact switching over to the orange Polybush has had on the longevity of the control arm. Furthermore it doesn't appear that they are connected to anything that's less durable than them.

As to squeaking; my polybush do not.

I would opt get what makes you comfortable between LR and OEM - either one will be just fine.

Cheers,

Ian

 

[dsm02c]

After hearing about the stories you all have to tell I'm wondering if maybe the 33K mi I got out of my RRS bushings isn't so bad? I mean they aren't even dead, just soft, and they aren't clunky except under certain circumstances.

When they clunk is when I replace them... It's the sound of the inner metal bushing bottoming out (or topping out) against the outside of the bushing and the inside of the control arm.

I've got my 3rd set in my truck and I'm at 64k mi... 33k is within expectations for replacement, especially if you're getting clunking.

 

[Dave Legacy]

When they clunk is when I replace them... It's the sound of the inner metal bushing bottoming out (or topping out) against the outside of the bushing and the inside of the control arm.

I've got my 3rd set in my truck and I'm at 64k mi... 33k is within expectations for replacement, especially if you're getting clunking.

Have you ever considered keeping a set of arms after they have been swapped out and rebuilding them for future use? I was thinking I might get new new arms this time and press in some new bushings and ball-joints to be used when I get my next set of tires.

This time around I'll just get the new arms.

 

[dsm02c]

Have you ever considered keeping a set of arms after they have been swapped out and rebuilding them for future use? I was thinking I might get new new arms this time and press in some new bushings and ball-joints to be used when I get my next set of tires.

This time around I'll just get the new arms.

I have the previous set under my tool box lying in wait with everything removed from them for that exact reason... It's a good idea, gets rid of one more excuse to not change them.

 

[DiscoDavis]

FWIW last time I chatted with a dealer tech he told me the stock LR3 bushings/control arms (on the NAS trucks at least) usually last to 60k. Exact mileage may vary, I had mine done last year, so I know exactly what kind of mileage I end up getting out of them.

 

[Dave Legacy]

Talked to the Indy shop working on my truck and the suggested control arms are from a manufacture called, "Eurospare". I haven't placed the order yet until I can look into it further.

 

[Dave Legacy]

I called AB, because they sell an OEM control arm, and they verified that theirs is Eurospare and state it's made in the same factory as the genuine part, but not labeled and packaged the same.

 

[Victory_Overland]

I called AB, because they sell an OEM control arm, and they verified that theirs is Eurospare and state it's made in the same factory as the genuine part, but not labeled and packaged the same.

AB = Atlantic British? Just asking because I am looking to put spares on the shelf before I need them since shipping to Hawaii is slow and expensive.

 

[Dave Legacy]

AB = Atlantic British? Just asking because I am looking to put spares on the shelf before I need them since shipping to Hawaii is slow and expensive.

Yea, AB is Atlantic British. Sorry, I knew better than to abreviate!

 

[Victory_Overland]

Yea, AB is Atlantic British. Sorry, I knew better than to abreviate!

No worries just wanted to confirm. Sometimes we abbreviate our dealers and they are the same as something else.

I've had good experience with Atlantic British during my build.

 

[cannonball55]

for anyone interested i've got a set of front lower arms i swapped out when i changed bushings. i planned on rebuilding them and swapping them back in but sold the truck. willing to sell for cheap. prefer pickup but willing to ship for cost. pm me if interested.

 

[zelatore]

To revive and slightly change the topic...


I just broke a SECOND upper rear control arm. The first time happened on some of the more challenging lines on Back way to Crown King in AZ last fall. That was the driver's side. And Monday on the Rubicon I broke the passenger side. Both parts broke in exactly the same way - the fwd bushing eye snapped off; not exactly at the weld, but just beside it, making me think the metal was heat-fatigued during the welding process.

When the first one went I considered it a fluke. But now the same thing on the other side? Hmmm....

I'm running the orange Poly bushings from AB; I'm now suspecting they are the contributing factor here. Enough-so that I don't think I'll be replacing those bushings w/poly in the future.

Just a little food for thought.

We usually talk about front control arms, but does anybody know if the RRS (and what years) REAR control arms interchange and if so, are there any differences in either the bushings or the control arm itself?

 

[A.J.M]

My receipt, check the date.

Done 33k on the bushes with no issues on my D3.
They fitted straight on, the bush itself is a different design, gives a slightly firmer ride.

For the front lowers, the chap is right. The ball joint is the same size. No idea where i've got 37mm from.
The bushes are different design but the arm is the same.

 

[zelatore]

Just as an FYI, they have updated the part numbers for the RRS control arms:

Upper right rear - LR063719
Lower right rear - LR019977

I just ordered one of each from the dealer in Livermore, CA. They aren't the closest or the cheapest but they were actually willing to take my money and will have the parts in the morning. Merriam was the best price I could find at $148/$188 respectively but I need the parts for this weekend and they're on the east coast so shipping would take a week.


I tried to order through my normal dealer in Sacramento or their Rocklin store but they not only didn't have the parts, they would need 3-7 days to get them, and they wouldn't take a credit card over the phone so I'd have had to drive an hour each way just to place the order. Customer service? Sorry, he doesn't seem to work there....

 

[AdvRovr]

Seriously? I've done parts payments over the phone with dealers from several makes. That's shocking.

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