AT Comanche upgrades

[Go4Lo]

No regrets. You'll love your stroker. My recommendations would be to use 26 lb injectors, an 40 mm over bore throttle body and a Split Second FTC-019BV fuel timing calibrator. Don't mess around with an adjustable fuel regulator. The SS unit will give you infinite fine control of fuel and timing that will get you dialed in just right. If you go with the FTC and need a preliminary map file to start off with, I can send you the one I developed for my 4.6.

That's music to my ears....thanks for the tips! I'm getting real close. We dropped the motor in last night so now I just need to finish the exhaust and bolt up the remaining accessories and then fire it up for the break in.

I'm running a HO motor out of '99 XJ with the entire electrical system from the '99 XJ so I don't have the option of an adj fuel pressure regulator. The '99 fuel system runs at 49psi so I plan to run a set of 24lb injectors.

Looking forward to seeing more of your build :smiley_drive:

 

[elcoyote]

I'm running a HO motor out of '99 XJ with the entire electrical system from the '99 XJ so I don't have the option of an adj fuel pressure regulator. The '99 fuel system runs at 49psi so I plan to run a set of 24lb injectors.

Certainly a different set of circumstances than the OBD-I from my '92. With your newer ECU you may not have any issues at all. I'll be interested to learn of your performance results and if you find that you need to tweak any signals signals from the O2 , MAF or crank sensors to control pinging.

 

[Go4Lo]

Based on your pictures it looks as though you have the RunCool brand high flow hood louvers, is that correct? What size are the ones you have?

Now that my stroker is running I think I'm going to have to get a set as well to keep the engine temps down under the hood.

 

[PMA4x4]

Not to hi-jack the thread but I am just wondering what Go4lo's results have been so far with a ODB-2 stroker system?

 

[Root Moose]

Mario, have you considered adding a roll bar type device in the bed of your truck?

I was curious if it would be practical to have the "classic" vertical hoop behind the cab with ~45 degree braces going back into the bed. Make it an actual roll bar that ties into the unirails (as opposed to a show bar); make it removable somehow for taking on and off the Flippac.

Is this practical at all for a new build?

As I was disassembling my MJ tonight I was day dreaming on how to make something like this work with the Flippac.

 

[elcoyote]

Mario, have you considered adding a roll bar type device in the bed of your truck?

I was curious if it would be practical to have the "classic" vertical hoop behind the cab with ~45 degree braces going back into the bed. Make it an actual roll bar that ties into the unirails (as opposed to a show bar); make it removable somehow for taking on and off the Flippac.

Is this practical at all for a new build?

As I was disassembling my MJ tonight I was day dreaming on how to make something like this work with the Flippac.

No, I had not considered it nor would I do it. I don't think it would be very practical. Operation of the AT Flippac would problematic at best and I would not want to add any additional weight that would raise the CG. Excessive weight is the enemy of the Overlander.

While body armor is rather popular, I am not a huge fan with the exception of stout bumpers for winch mounting and towing needs. I ran the MJ for its first 323,000 miles without any armor at all. I removed all of the factory skid plates with the exception of the gas tank skid. My sliders were a recent addition for the primary reasons of adding a step for my wife and serving as air tanks. The diamond plate on my lower panels was put on to reduce stone chipping.

I run the MJ on technical trails often and have competed twice in the Safari Triathlon many years back. There is no substitute for picking a good line. I have managed to this successfully without ever causing serious damage to my vehicle in the 18 years that I have owned it.

 

[Root Moose]

Yeah, I was just thinking about how the cabs on these trucks pancake if you roll them.

Body armour you can choose to use or not but a roll over is never a conscious decision. Especially when someone ahead of you does something stupid at 65 mi/h on a four lane highway.

Anyway, it was just a thought. I've got a clean sheet of paper so I'm kicking ideas around.

 

[elcoyote]

Yeah, I was just thinking about how the cabs on these trucks pancake if you roll them.

Body armour you can choose to use or not but a roll over is never a conscious decision. Especially when someone ahead of you does something stupid at 65 mi/h on a four lane highway.

Anyway, it was just a thought. I've got a clean sheet of paper so I'm kicking ideas around.

Good point. If roof cave in is your concern, you may want to consider a properly built interior cage instead that would preserve the function of the AT Flippac.

The hardest thing I've had to deal with over the years with the MJ build has been stress cracks across the fire wall. To abate them I added frame stiffeners both across the frame rails aw well as along the frame rails. You may want to keep an eye on this as you start to load the MJ up with accessories and use it. If I were a betting man, I would say the culprit is washboard roads.

 

[Root Moose]

I wanted to avoid interior cages. Between insurance nervousness and the cab being so small it may not be a good idea. A hoop behind the seats wouldn't be bad but to brace it correctly basically means putting a diagonal across the door opening - which would suck in practice.

I've been looking for stiffeners but it appears nobody makes them. I've been in contact with the usual culprits and came up empty. I was hoping to avoid making my own (time = money plus a touch of laziness). I put TNT stiffeners on my XJ and it made a huge difference to how the vehicle feels/sounds.

I was thinking about replicating my XJ's ORGS/JKS Super Nerfs to stiffen things up as well but haven't been able to logic out whether it is a good idea to tie the box to the nerf. Tied together it may cause stress cracks in the box and/or frame mounts. Loose the box may hit the nerfs and get damaged.

The stress cracks you've seen... radiating around the transmission tunnel opening? Bottom of the A-pillars? MC/booster mount?

More mental gymnastics are in order I guess.

 

[elcoyote]

The stress cracks you've seen... radiating around the transmission tunnel opening? Bottom of the A-pillars? MC/booster mount?

Radiating around the transmission tunnel on the firewall

 

[Flingshot]

More please!

 

[elcoyote]

More please!

More what?

 

[Deleted member 9101]

The golen sounded like a good option for me to but after reading about the hassels of tuning the engine it seems like kind of a pia for a guy that has no interests in gadgets and fine tuning via a laptop. My chaser trailer gets a little heavy sometimes behind my lj maybe I should just enjoy the slow ride.

Really its easy to do it the "old fashion way". If it pings, its usually either too much timing, advancing too quick, or too hot. All three are easy fixes.

 

[srttim]

Do you mind giving the full suspension specs you are running at this time front and rear. BTW I have had the pleasure of seeing this truck in person and its a nice rig. I am the young man who borrowed your tow strap while you ordered one for me. I am thinking about selling my FJ cruiser and buying a pick-up and the MJ is top on my list.

 

[elcoyote]

Do you mind giving the full suspension specs you are running at this time front and rear. BTW I have had the pleasure of seeing this truck in person and its a nice rig. I am the young man who borrowed your tow strap while you ordered one for me. I am thinking about selling my FJ cruiser and buying a pick-up and the MJ is top on my list.

Most of the salient points are here in the thread. Since you are local, the best think you could do is come visit our open house on July 9th and pore over the MJ in person.