Kingsize24
Well-known member
Looks good! I really dig your wheel choice too.
Atl-atl is at it again, Ive added another truck to the fleet. 2024 Power Wagon inside!
- Thread starter Atl-atl
- Start date
brokenfoot
New member
Hope the Balance Masters work for you! On my truck, I still had the wheel/tire combo balanced + adding the balance masters.
I agree @Kingsize24, great wheel choice
Got an eerily similar set on my truck.
View attachment f250.jpg
I agree @Kingsize24, great wheel choice
Got an eerily similar set on my truck.
View attachment f250.jpg
Atl-atl
Adventurer
Ill know tomorrow when they show up. My front two are currently "balanced" per Discount Tire. The rears have no weights on them because Discount refused to even attempt to put weights on when the machine called for 25oz per. Either way im hoping its at least somewhat better for $400.Hope the Balance Masters work for you! On my truck, I still had the wheel/tire combo balanced + adding the balance masters.
I agree @Kingsize24, great wheel choice
Got an eerily similar set on my truck.
View attachment 867464
brokenfoot
New member
That's irritating that discount wouldn't balance them. Over the last 5 years, my experiences with them have gotten worse. I opted to have a local heavy duty truck shop do the balancing since they tend to deal with 35in+ tires.
I'm curious how much it will help. Definitely report back. All the reviews on CJC were always glowing.
I'm curious how much it will help. Definitely report back. All the reviews on CJC were always glowing.
Kingsize24
Well-known member
Atl-atl
Adventurer
Well they showed up today and I threw them on. First impression, below 50mph everything is smooth, much better than before. Above 50 its better but not perfect, in fact I wouldnt even say good. I put on all 4 just to see what would happen. Previously my steering wheel didnt vibrate at all which made me think the fronts dont need any help and after installing them there is a slight vibration in the steering wheel. Im going to remove the fronts and test drive again tomorrow. Maybe Ill double up the rears for extra balancing ability hahaha. I imagine Balance Masters does not approve of that.
If I cant get these to work Im going back to Discount to try getting two of the tires warrantied since two balanced just fine. Has anyone gone through this process with Discount Tire? What should I do/say to get them to replace the tires?
If I cant get these to work Im going back to Discount to try getting two of the tires warrantied since two balanced just fine. Has anyone gone through this process with Discount Tire? What should I do/say to get them to replace the tires?
Kingsize24
Well-known member
Glad you got them, and they work for you under 50, but I'd imagine nothing will balance out 25oz. I've honestly never had anything more than 3.5oz out, and those were spun to get the weight imbalance as low as possible. Then I slap them on with the balance masters without issue. And yes, contact the manufacturer, have discount verify the wheels are true, and start the warranty process. They shouldn't even be a 5th of that weight out of balance, and I'd be concerned with anything over 2.5oz of weight.
Kingsize24
Well-known member
BTW... in the previous pictures I see you still have the stud rings on a few studs. You did remove those prior to putting on the wheels correct?
Atl-atl
Adventurer
The wheels are brand new as well but I guess that doesnt mean they are true. Im not sure why Discount doesnt say "holy crap these are WAY out of balance, lets get you some new tires under warranty" instead they just send me on my way with unbalanced tires.
I did not remove the stud rings. Im guessing youre going to tell me I was supposed to remove them.
Kingsize24
Well-known member
Agreed. They should never have let you drive away that way.
And yes. They are only okay to run with the factory wheels. They do not allow the face of your wheel to sit flat against the rotor hat. It's not only making your wheel wobble, it will eventually have the ability to loosen, and potentially you could skeet a wheel. That's another thing Discount should have caught.
Those wheel clips are only for assembly to hold the rotor flat to the face of the hub. Factory wheels have a cut out for them, aftermarket ones do not.
And yes. They are only okay to run with the factory wheels. They do not allow the face of your wheel to sit flat against the rotor hat. It's not only making your wheel wobble, it will eventually have the ability to loosen, and potentially you could skeet a wheel. That's another thing Discount should have caught.
Those wheel clips are only for assembly to hold the rotor flat to the face of the hub. Factory wheels have a cut out for them, aftermarket ones do not.
brokenfoot
New member
@Kingsize24 never knew about those stud rings. Good eye, I would have never seen them.
@Atl-atl You're officially a hypermiler keeping it under 50mph. Hopefully discount will warranty the tires. 25oz is an absurd amount of weight. I don't really even see how you could fit that many weights. Kind of going back to the aforementioned poor service I've recieved from discount, it tracks. The guys themselves always seem like decent people, so I'd like to believe they'll get you sorted.
Not really sure who is to blame, but I can't imagine discount goes above and beyond to educate their techs.
Kingsize24
Well-known member
It's not uncommon at all to see people with vibration issues that have left them. I've personally seen it many times. It's one of those things you don't know, till you know. Having said that, I know Discount does. So unfortunately this entire situation is man made. They shouldn't have given him a can of worms on such a beautiful truck. But unfortunately the education level, and desire for even the semblance of ****** is lacking these days.
Atl-atl
Adventurer
Slight update on the tire balancing situation. I pulled out the front Balance Masters to see if there was a change(there was not) and someone told me to remove the stud retainers because they might cause an imbalance with aftermarket wheels. Vibrations are noticeably better after removing the retaining clips which is crazy. Still bad enough that tomorrow I will be going to Discount to see about getting the rears replaced under warranty.
In other, but still tire related news, I played with crayons this afternoon. Hopefully I will only have to do this once. I would really like to trim enough that I can put the axle back into the 1/2" forward position so that means I will be trimming quite a lot. Plan is to retain the stock flares and only trim the front and rear sections. I want to be at full bump before running into the top of the flares, let alone the top of the inside of the wheel well. Ill probably get hate for limiting my up travel but I just dont care.
On the exterior fender I marked out my cut lines with crayon to see how it was going to lay out and get an idea how far I will need to go on the inner parts of the fender. The outer fender, flare and wheel well liner will be really easy to trim. The pinch weld and inner fender parts will be a little more work. Im brainstorming ideas for how to accomplish this. There is a LOT of room to cut before running into anything important like body mounts or door hinges, so thats rad. The only issue that will need some finagling will be the stupid enormous wiring harness that is right behind the tire on the driver side. Once again, what the hell were the Dodge engineers thinking?
The yellow line farthest from the white flare clips is where Im planning to cut. Thankfully the clips for the stock flares are quite far away so a lot can be trimmed while retaining nearly all of the clips. The hash marks are where Im planning to make relief cuts and then fold the metal over so that I can refasten the liner. Ill try to make the least amount of relief cuts as is necessary. Im hoping to be able to use the stock liner and nothing more, just massaging it into a new shape with some heat and pressure.
On the inner fender there is quite a lot of oddly shaped sheet metal. There is a large "bubble" the is behind the pinch weld. It is most common for people with these trucks to simply fold over the pinch weld and massage the liner to gain the clearance they need. The bubble is an empty cavity, or partially empty, it has foam insulation inside some of the area.
Im planning to go one step further than simply folding over the pinch seam. After folding it Im going to make wedge cuts on either side of the seam about 2" behind it and then push the portion of metal with the folded seam backwards. Ill then refasten it however I can. Id prefer to weld it back into place but Im scared of starting a fire since the cavity is filled with foam. I might place some tack welds and then seam sealer the rest. The cavity already has quite a few holes from the factory that are open to the atmosphere so I dont think Ill be causing any real harm, other than possibly losing some rigidity of the outer fender but I doubt it since its mounted in so many other places.
All said and done this will gain over 3" of clearance behind the tire. According to the maths I can fit 40s with the axle in the stock location after this amount of trimming. I wont put the axle that far back though, it will either stay where it is currently at 1 1/2" forward or move back to only 1/2" forward. 1/2" is ideal. In front/above the tire, much less is needed. Ill wait to trim anything until I can get it flexed out and see what is needed. Potentially just a little bit of the headlight bracket. Possibly some of the fender as marked in this picture.
In other, but still tire related news, I played with crayons this afternoon. Hopefully I will only have to do this once. I would really like to trim enough that I can put the axle back into the 1/2" forward position so that means I will be trimming quite a lot. Plan is to retain the stock flares and only trim the front and rear sections. I want to be at full bump before running into the top of the flares, let alone the top of the inside of the wheel well. Ill probably get hate for limiting my up travel but I just dont care.
On the exterior fender I marked out my cut lines with crayon to see how it was going to lay out and get an idea how far I will need to go on the inner parts of the fender. The outer fender, flare and wheel well liner will be really easy to trim. The pinch weld and inner fender parts will be a little more work. Im brainstorming ideas for how to accomplish this. There is a LOT of room to cut before running into anything important like body mounts or door hinges, so thats rad. The only issue that will need some finagling will be the stupid enormous wiring harness that is right behind the tire on the driver side. Once again, what the hell were the Dodge engineers thinking?
The yellow line farthest from the white flare clips is where Im planning to cut. Thankfully the clips for the stock flares are quite far away so a lot can be trimmed while retaining nearly all of the clips. The hash marks are where Im planning to make relief cuts and then fold the metal over so that I can refasten the liner. Ill try to make the least amount of relief cuts as is necessary. Im hoping to be able to use the stock liner and nothing more, just massaging it into a new shape with some heat and pressure.
On the inner fender there is quite a lot of oddly shaped sheet metal. There is a large "bubble" the is behind the pinch weld. It is most common for people with these trucks to simply fold over the pinch weld and massage the liner to gain the clearance they need. The bubble is an empty cavity, or partially empty, it has foam insulation inside some of the area.
Im planning to go one step further than simply folding over the pinch seam. After folding it Im going to make wedge cuts on either side of the seam about 2" behind it and then push the portion of metal with the folded seam backwards. Ill then refasten it however I can. Id prefer to weld it back into place but Im scared of starting a fire since the cavity is filled with foam. I might place some tack welds and then seam sealer the rest. The cavity already has quite a few holes from the factory that are open to the atmosphere so I dont think Ill be causing any real harm, other than possibly losing some rigidity of the outer fender but I doubt it since its mounted in so many other places.
All said and done this will gain over 3" of clearance behind the tire. According to the maths I can fit 40s with the axle in the stock location after this amount of trimming. I wont put the axle that far back though, it will either stay where it is currently at 1 1/2" forward or move back to only 1/2" forward. 1/2" is ideal. In front/above the tire, much less is needed. Ill wait to trim anything until I can get it flexed out and see what is needed. Potentially just a little bit of the headlight bracket. Possibly some of the fender as marked in this picture.
