mustangwarrior
Adventurer
nice build, one advantage to my f150 i guess, it already has dual tanks, the only thing is i wish i bought an extended cab, considering putting a crew cab on and hacking up the bed
avalache build anyone
- Thread starter bdyer
- Start date
HenryJ
Expedition Leader
Should be an easy swap and fab.
mustangwarrior
Adventurer
its not really the fab that worries me, its that i know it will probly nickel and dime me thru the whole build
HenryJ
Expedition Leader
Parts finally arrived today.
The fuel gauge is in-
I heated up the knee bolster and pushed the top in as well as added a wedge around the bottom side to angle it upward.
The gallons display is visible from my driving position. The fuel button is in a nice place.
Still need to fill up. I'll do that on my next trip to town.
The second battery arrived. I wired it to charge from the isolator-
...and added my surplus Battery Brain as the method of combining them.
I can manually combine them under the hood , or use the remotes. The way it is set up this battery charges when the truck is running. It remains full and fresh. When I need extra reserve I combine them and "jump start" myself. Fairly simple right now. We will see what the future brings.
The fuel gauge is in-
I heated up the knee bolster and pushed the top in as well as added a wedge around the bottom side to angle it upward.
The gallons display is visible from my driving position. The fuel button is in a nice place.
Still need to fill up. I'll do that on my next trip to town.
The second battery arrived. I wired it to charge from the isolator-
...and added my surplus Battery Brain as the method of combining them.
I can manually combine them under the hood , or use the remotes. The way it is set up this battery charges when the truck is running. It remains full and fresh. When I need extra reserve I combine them and "jump start" myself. Fairly simple right now. We will see what the future brings.
Last edited:
HenryJ
Expedition Leader
This might help that a little. Driving it last night with the tanks full it almost felt a bit more stable? It may just be my imagination. It did seem like there was a difference that was somewhat noticeable though. I'll keep an eye on things after the "rose colored glasses" of a new mod come off.
HenryJ
Expedition Leader
As with any new project I work out the bugs as I find them. Filling the truck last night I found that the tee I inserted into the vent line for the transfer tank , served to restrict that and slow the filling for the main tank. Not acceptable.
I also found the during a transfer while traveling, the engine would stumble after a little while. I don't know what in the vent system might be contributing to this, but moving the fill line is a must now. That was the second strike.
I picked up a copper 1"x1/2"x1" tee and a brass barbx1/2" sweat fitting. This tee is cut into the fill tube for the main tank. I used some braided stainless line I had lying around this time. It held up well on the last truck too.
I put a splice in the vent line, so it is free and clear as it was stock. This should be a better solution and probably what I should have done to begin with.
The gauge is now set for 18 gallons when full. I think it is all where I want it now.
I also found the during a transfer while traveling, the engine would stumble after a little while. I don't know what in the vent system might be contributing to this, but moving the fill line is a must now. That was the second strike.
I picked up a copper 1"x1/2"x1" tee and a brass barbx1/2" sweat fitting. This tee is cut into the fill tube for the main tank. I used some braided stainless line I had lying around this time. It held up well on the last truck too.
I put a splice in the vent line, so it is free and clear as it was stock. This should be a better solution and probably what I should have done to begin with.
The gauge is now set for 18 gallons when full. I think it is all where I want it now.
Last edited:
HenryJ
Expedition Leader
Finished up a few little items.
Two more Yakima Blockhead mounts on the back-
Now we can carry all three bikes.
Added two recovery hooks to the back.
Towing a friends Tahoe last week reminded me that I had forgot to add those.
I think I'm finally to that "happy place". I can not think of anything I am missing from my old truck. Sure there might come something small in the future, but for now I think that I'm ready to get it "out there" and build some confidence in this truck.
Two more Yakima Blockhead mounts on the back-
Now we can carry all three bikes.
Added two recovery hooks to the back.
Towing a friends Tahoe last week reminded me that I had forgot to add those.
I think I'm finally to that "happy place". I can not think of anything I am missing from my old truck. Sure there might come something small in the future, but for now I think that I'm ready to get it "out there" and build some confidence in this truck.
mustangwarrior
Adventurer
Anyway...I had used a pair of the German designed cup holders available from Groit's Garage in my old truck. They were...Ok. They survived for quite a while. The passenger side broke a couple of the pins. It still held a drink, but took efforts to close properly.
With experience behind me now, I did not reinvest in those again. Too pricey for the durability. This time I opted for the less expensive folding cup holders: NAPA Cup Holder # 751-1027 $5.49
Availability is good. Less than half the price of the German cup holders. They fold up thinner than the others , although it does take two operations to close or open them. The upper bracket is adjustable so a larger cup can fit. That might be useful. Time will tell if they are a good investment.
Mounted below my knee on the sides of the center console. Should work out just fine.
I think cockpit adjustments are just about complete.
how's the cup holders holding up? they still seem durable? when you go around a corner too fast, does the drink stay in place?
i'm looking into building a "control center" for my truck which would eliminate my cup holders and saw them on ebay and reminded me of your build
HenryJ
Expedition Leader
They have been doing just fine. I have not been in the really rough stuff yet for a "good" test, but daily duties have been just fine.
I have worried about banging them and the location I mounted them could find them damaged from moving the seat too far forward. Neither has happened.
It will "get your attention" when someone folds it up and doesn't warn you. Jeez! I thought she broke it! :xxrotflma It was fine, just makes a nasty crackling sound folding the top down
The price is right. They are not flimsy plastic. As durable or better than the German built cup holders I had before.
No regrets thus far.
HenryJ
Expedition Leader
Added a power port to the back end today:
My thought is that this might be used to power small 12 volt accessories. Specifically a [ame=http://www.amazon.com/RoadPro-12-Volt-Portable-Stove-Black/dp/B00030DLEE]RoadPro 12 volt portable stove[/ame]
This might be very handy for having a hot meal ready when we want it and not need to stop and deploy a full on kitchen. I have been told it is the next best thing to a microwave for warming up food.
My thought is that this might be used to power small 12 volt accessories. Specifically a [ame=http://www.amazon.com/RoadPro-12-Volt-Portable-Stove-Black/dp/B00030DLEE]RoadPro 12 volt portable stove[/ame]
This might be very handy for having a hot meal ready when we want it and not need to stop and deploy a full on kitchen. I have been told it is the next best thing to a microwave for warming up food.
Figured you might know.... I heard that the 2500 avys with the 8.1 come with a small 6-7 gallon auxiliary rear fuel tank. After spending about an hour googleing I can't seem to find a writeup or any pictures of the unit......any idea where I can find information on the smaller tank?
thanks
thanks
HenryJ
Expedition Leader
They do. The small tank is above the spare tire and gravity feeds the lower main tank. Sort of a big bulge in the fill tube, I guess. It is shown in the factory service manual. There is no transfer switching as it is listed all as one fuel tank. The main tank looks to be the same 31 gallon side tank others share. The 2500 is listed as having a 37 gallon capacity.
There are quite a few differences. The fill tube , charcoal canister and sensors are all relocated to the rear.
I don't know enough about the frame and suspension locations to know if the leaf sprung 2500 system might work on the coil sprung 1500 platform.
There may be some useful information in the GM Upfitter manuals (right now the connection is slow and I am unable to load the .PDF file to see if it is shown.)
There are quite a few differences. The fill tube , charcoal canister and sensors are all relocated to the rear.
I don't know enough about the frame and suspension locations to know if the leaf sprung 2500 system might work on the coil sprung 1500 platform.
There may be some useful information in the GM Upfitter manuals (right now the connection is slow and I am unable to load the .PDF file to see if it is shown.)
HenryJ
Expedition Leader
A few years ago the undercarriage cameras were showing up. I have not seen or heard anything about them in a long time. I had seen a couple damaged by rocks and one that filled with mud. I wonder what ever happened to those rigs and if the cameras are still working?
I did check up on one of the crew cab trucks that had installed a camera in the rear license plate and another in the bowtie . His is still going strong after all these years.
My Avalanche has a HUGE blind spot behind and I want to take the pressure off my spotter when hooking up to the trailer. Having the ability to monitor the trailer will be an advantage too. I installed a Peak PKC0RB Back-Up Camera with a 3.5" Monitor
This is supposed to be a wireless system, but that is a bit of a stretch. Two wires for the display to connect to a power source. Then a long set of wires to the wireless transmitter from the camera and from the transmitter to a power source. Another six feet of wire and it would no longer need to be wireless. I wired mine in to an ignition source so that it comes on with the truck and remains on while it is running. The kit is designed to wire the rear camera to the back-up light circuit. That way it comes on in reverse. I wanted to be able to check back there anytime needed.
The camera is set up with a license plate mount.
The kit includes some angled shims to adjust the angle upward or downward. I used some double sided foam emblem adhesive tape to better secure it to the plate and seal out debris and then mounted it with the plate screws.
The display I mounted using a surplus ball and socket mount I had left over from another project. It is sturdier and mounts with screws and the doubles side adhesive.
I chose to mount it lower so that it would be out of the windshield and somewhat shaded by the laptop.
The camera uses a 110° lens and has a pretty good field of view.
It does have reference lines that can be turned on or off. Night vision seems to be very good. With the illumination of the back up lights the field of view is visible.
Rumors I hear say that by 2013 rearview cameras on the back of vehicles will be the norm rather than the exception, even if it is not mandated. I like it so far. We will see how well it holds up.
Price on these has really come down. I wanted a "budget" system, but large enough to be usable. I thought wireless would be the way to go, but I'm having some doubts about that being critical now.
Mine was purchased through Amazon for just over $73 , which is less that the smaller version was available locally.
I did check up on one of the crew cab trucks that had installed a camera in the rear license plate and another in the bowtie . His is still going strong after all these years.
My Avalanche has a HUGE blind spot behind and I want to take the pressure off my spotter when hooking up to the trailer. Having the ability to monitor the trailer will be an advantage too. I installed a Peak PKC0RB Back-Up Camera with a 3.5" Monitor
This is supposed to be a wireless system, but that is a bit of a stretch. Two wires for the display to connect to a power source. Then a long set of wires to the wireless transmitter from the camera and from the transmitter to a power source. Another six feet of wire and it would no longer need to be wireless. I wired mine in to an ignition source so that it comes on with the truck and remains on while it is running. The kit is designed to wire the rear camera to the back-up light circuit. That way it comes on in reverse. I wanted to be able to check back there anytime needed.
The camera is set up with a license plate mount.
The kit includes some angled shims to adjust the angle upward or downward. I used some double sided foam emblem adhesive tape to better secure it to the plate and seal out debris and then mounted it with the plate screws.
The display I mounted using a surplus ball and socket mount I had left over from another project. It is sturdier and mounts with screws and the doubles side adhesive.
I chose to mount it lower so that it would be out of the windshield and somewhat shaded by the laptop.
The camera uses a 110° lens and has a pretty good field of view.
It does have reference lines that can be turned on or off. Night vision seems to be very good. With the illumination of the back up lights the field of view is visible.
Rumors I hear say that by 2013 rearview cameras on the back of vehicles will be the norm rather than the exception, even if it is not mandated. I like it so far. We will see how well it holds up.
Price on these has really come down. I wanted a "budget" system, but large enough to be usable. I thought wireless would be the way to go, but I'm having some doubts about that being critical now.
Mine was purchased through Amazon for just over $73 , which is less that the smaller version was available locally.