avalache build anyone
- Thread starter bdyer
- Start date
HenryJ
Expedition Leader
Another piece of the puzzle: Brakes.
The newer models received upgraded front brakes in the GMT900 vehicles. The rotors are one inch larger in diameter. An easy bolt on upgrade.
I went with local "performance parts" from NAPA. The application that I used was a 2007 Tahoe.
Eclipse reman calipers with brackets, Reactive One slotted bidirectional rotors, Adaptive One ceramic pads. The total came to just under $420
Some comparison shots:
Brackets and two rotors in the background
At first I thought that the caliper pistons were smaller. In the first shot it looks that way, but the second shows the larger piston of the new caliper. Very deceiving.
A comparison of the pads shows only a small increase in contact area. Most of the swap benefit must come from the mechanical advantage. The rotors and pads will be the rest of the improvement.
Reports are that 17" wheels are the smallest to fit.
You can see that any bigger than this is not an option.
I have had only limited testing with these rotors in the fleet. They do bed in pretty easily and evenly. It is a little too soon to say just how much of an improvement they will be , but with the "rose colored glasses" still on, the improvement is noticeable. Less effort to bring this thing down. It feels much better.
The newer models received upgraded front brakes in the GMT900 vehicles. The rotors are one inch larger in diameter. An easy bolt on upgrade.
I went with local "performance parts" from NAPA. The application that I used was a 2007 Tahoe.
Eclipse reman calipers with brackets, Reactive One slotted bidirectional rotors, Adaptive One ceramic pads. The total came to just under $420
Some comparison shots:
Brackets and two rotors in the background
At first I thought that the caliper pistons were smaller. In the first shot it looks that way, but the second shows the larger piston of the new caliper. Very deceiving.
A comparison of the pads shows only a small increase in contact area. Most of the swap benefit must come from the mechanical advantage. The rotors and pads will be the rest of the improvement.
Reports are that 17" wheels are the smallest to fit.
You can see that any bigger than this is not an option.
I have had only limited testing with these rotors in the fleet. They do bed in pretty easily and evenly. It is a little too soon to say just how much of an improvement they will be , but with the "rose colored glasses" still on, the improvement is noticeable. Less effort to bring this thing down. It feels much better.
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dblosch
Adventurer
That's a bummer. I just bought new tires for my stock 16's! Looks like when it's time for brakes I'll be sticking with DougD's Durastop upgrade from CAFNA. Anyway, Nicely done!
Dan
HenryJ
Expedition Leader
Thanks! I know 16" wheels would have sent me another direction. Fortunately the 17" wheels were already on mine. This bonus of bigger brakes kind of makes up for the inconvenience of being limited to the 17" tire size choices. I managed to pick up a $50 17" wheel to use as a spare today. Now I won't have to play musical tires if the spare needs to be used on the front.
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laker
New member
Sail panel LEDs installed today. I like'em :ylsmoke:
Youtube video (not mine)
Amber DRL and wigwag'd up front.
Howdy......can you tell me what the sail panel led is? How did you wire them in? I would love to do that mod.........looks sharp!
HenryJ
Expedition Leader
Sure! This is the article that I used as a reference
I soldered and heat shrank all my connections. My wires run down to the trailer wiring where I get both the brake and turn signal signals from one wire for each side. I did not want to mess with diodes and the tangle of wiring in that article.
I did not remove the boxes. I removed the bolts and raised them enough to route the wires down through the back with the tail light wires. Then followed those looms to the trailer wiring where I tapped the yellow and green wires.
I did not do the running lights. I just wanted the extra visibility for stop and turn.
The wig wag DRL was pretty easy too : Wig wag turns article. One relay for each side and a pair of amber (3157A) bulbs. Makes a real good attention getter for the front.
Of course for that one to work with the lights on and at night you need to do the Full Time Daytime Running Lights mod: FTDRL install.PDF
As with any mod, make it easily reversible and legal for your state and local jurisdictions. I don't find any legal issues here, but I don't make a habit of arguing with a LEO having a bad day either.
HenryJ
Expedition Leader
Loaded light 
Headed out for a spring ride into Leslie gulch tomorrow. We will probably enter through Succor Creek canyon.
Headed out for a spring ride into Leslie gulch tomorrow. We will probably enter through Succor Creek canyon.
HenryJ
Expedition Leader
400%-500% average snowpack this year and an upcoming 300 mile offroad adventure was enough to spur me into finding a way to carry the Fiberglass sand/bridging ladders on this truck. We are likely to find drainage's cut deep.
Carrying the spare underneath the back end is not really going to be an option now that I have a matching 285/70-17 spare. It will continue to ride up top. That freed up the space under the back for the ladders.
I used the same spare tire winches that came off the old truck. The brackets needed a little BFH massage to get the angle right and I drilled one 1/2" hole for the Avalanche frame. Other than that it took very little work. They tuck up pretty nicely and offer a shield for the auxiliary fuel tank too.
I hope that I never need them, but it is nice to have them along again.
Carrying the spare underneath the back end is not really going to be an option now that I have a matching 285/70-17 spare. It will continue to ride up top. That freed up the space under the back for the ladders.
I used the same spare tire winches that came off the old truck. The brackets needed a little BFH massage to get the angle right and I drilled one 1/2" hole for the Avalanche frame. Other than that it took very little work. They tuck up pretty nicely and offer a shield for the auxiliary fuel tank too.
I hope that I never need them, but it is nice to have them along again.
HenryJ
Expedition Leader
Last weekends trip showed me the KLR is too heavy for the trailer. That means it must go in the truck. It is too long to fit , midgate up in the back. That means I had to devise "Plan B".
Pulling the trailer with the stock tailgate down is not an option as I am sure that I would damage the tailgate with the trailers draw bar.
A rack to extend the bed 14" for the rear tire of the KLR is what I needed.
This uses stock hardware and can be swapped out easily.
This is a little over 2/3 the length of the stock tailgate and sits about 8" higher. 24" between the TW200 and KLR650 should be enough room so that is how I spaced the ladders.
With the cables dropped the rack lays down almost 8" lower than the stock tailgate. I'm not real sure how I will raise it and hook the cables, but I suspect that a couple ratchet straps will work to pull it up into place.
It will raise, but it is well below the latches so it would be secured with straps.
I think this will work to haul two motorcycles in the back and still pull the trailer. Hopefully I'll get a chance to test it out in a couple weeks.
Pulling the trailer with the stock tailgate down is not an option as I am sure that I would damage the tailgate with the trailers draw bar.
A rack to extend the bed 14" for the rear tire of the KLR is what I needed.
This uses stock hardware and can be swapped out easily.
This is a little over 2/3 the length of the stock tailgate and sits about 8" higher. 24" between the TW200 and KLR650 should be enough room so that is how I spaced the ladders.
With the cables dropped the rack lays down almost 8" lower than the stock tailgate. I'm not real sure how I will raise it and hook the cables, but I suspect that a couple ratchet straps will work to pull it up into place.
It will raise, but it is well below the latches so it would be secured with straps.
I think this will work to haul two motorcycles in the back and still pull the trailer. Hopefully I'll get a chance to test it out in a couple weeks.
HenryJ
Expedition Leader
It is. I really like the room. Comfortable as an easy chair. I have the track figured out, although I still need to get used to the fact that I don't have room to choose my line like I did with the smaller truck.
It still needs a few trips to highlight deficiencies and differences. Wheel spacers on the rear are new this time. That will help my clearances on the rear while articulating.
We have an Owyhee expedition planned for next week. Having 500% average precipitation this year in many places, I expect to find lots of wash and cut on the trails. 170 miles offroad should iron out some details.
We are looking forward to the adventure.
HenryJ
Expedition Leader
Took a step backward today. The battery combiner situation had been bugging me. The Battery Brain had no way to tell me when the batteries were indeed combined. Remotes are cool and all...but did I really need more of them? The one time I did need it I went under the hood and switched it manually. I had neglected to add a wire that allowed that to work when it sensed low voltage, so I ended up using jumper cables. I did fix that problem, but neglected to turn the manual override off
KISS.
I replaced the Battery Brain with a $14.99 Dorman battery disconnect switch from Oreiley's Auto parts.
Pull the key and put it in a hole behind the battery. When I need them combined, put it in and turn the key. I know they are combined. No remotes. simple.
KISS.
I replaced the Battery Brain with a $14.99 Dorman battery disconnect switch from Oreiley's Auto parts.
Pull the key and put it in a hole behind the battery. When I need them combined, put it in and turn the key. I know they are combined. No remotes. simple.
HenryJ
Expedition Leader
A little "mad money" came my way so it was a good time to upgrade the mirrors to towing mirrors:
These are aftermarket FIT system mirrors purchased on Amazon.com $309 for the pair. Heated, electric adjustable with turn signal. I will miss the auto dimming my old set had and I had to add an LED puddle light.
The 12 volt Prewired Superfulx 4 chip LED floodlights were purchased from http://www.oznium.com . I had to salvage two wires with terminal ends and add them to the new mirrors. Drilling one 3/8" hole in the underside of the mirror mount and glued in place. They work as well or better than the stock puddle lights.
These are aftermarket FIT system mirrors purchased on Amazon.com $309 for the pair. Heated, electric adjustable with turn signal. I will miss the auto dimming my old set had and I had to add an LED puddle light.
The 12 volt Prewired Superfulx 4 chip LED floodlights were purchased from http://www.oznium.com . I had to salvage two wires with terminal ends and add them to the new mirrors. Drilling one 3/8" hole in the underside of the mirror mount and glued in place. They work as well or better than the stock puddle lights.