Back to a truck Camper!
- Thread starter docdave
- Start date
Still having screw stripping problems? The "proper" way to fix it is to drill the hole out as large as possible to a size coresponding a pine dowel. Then slather the hole and dowel with glue and tap it in. Should be a snug interferance fit. Once dry drill a pilot hole and walla new wood for your screw.
1stDeuce
Explorer
Hey Doc, it's nice reading your posts! I have a few thoughts and questions that I thought I'd out.
First, are you still having backup lights glowing issues? If so, check the ground on your wiring harnesses. If your camper is plugged in through the trailer wiring, I will guarantee that you have a bad ground on one side or the other. For some reason, the backup lights become the ground path vs. the other lights. (Assuming no battery in the camper, so it runs off the truck...)
Second, I have a '94 Ute with the 2pc rear door like you have, and mine could use new soft walls too. I was also thinking about going to a traditional door with screen, and then just having new canvas made by Bear Creek. What did Hallmark say they would do for canvas if you replaced the door with a short door? Any rough pricing you could pass along?
My camper has the original Hallmark roof, which is non-aluminum, non-fiberglass. It's not very light, so I think it's wood based. Mine also bows down in the middle where there isn't any support, and it sags at the front when you put it up, though it seems like they all do that. If you have the fiberglass roof, you are lucky indeed!!
Keep posting!
Chris
First, are you still having backup lights glowing issues? If so, check the ground on your wiring harnesses. If your camper is plugged in through the trailer wiring, I will guarantee that you have a bad ground on one side or the other. For some reason, the backup lights become the ground path vs. the other lights. (Assuming no battery in the camper, so it runs off the truck...)
Second, I have a '94 Ute with the 2pc rear door like you have, and mine could use new soft walls too. I was also thinking about going to a traditional door with screen, and then just having new canvas made by Bear Creek. What did Hallmark say they would do for canvas if you replaced the door with a short door? Any rough pricing you could pass along?
My camper has the original Hallmark roof, which is non-aluminum, non-fiberglass. It's not very light, so I think it's wood based. Mine also bows down in the middle where there isn't any support, and it sags at the front when you put it up, though it seems like they all do that. If you have the fiberglass roof, you are lucky indeed!!
Keep posting!
Chris
docdave
Aspiring overlander
The guys at Hallmark solved the wiring problem....so that's a relief. The back door can be replaced with a single piece door and a piece of soft top velcroed in place of the upper door for about 1500 dollars. A new soft top all around is about 2 grand. I think I'll replace the door, since the service guys thought the camper was sound enough to warrent the investment. The soft top, will have to wait, mine isn't all that bad. My fiberglass roof, although it sags in the middle (less now since I've begun propping it up) doesn't sag a the front when it's up, like so many older units that I have seen. Another lucky break for me. You can get a new roof and top, for about 3 grand. I guess a substantial number of older camper owners have opted for this update. With new campers over 20000 dollars, even up to 30000 it's no wonder updating older campers has become big business. I've also talked with Rob at Coyote RV about the rear door modification....he's a bit higher priced, but is also willing do do it. As I may have mentioned earlier, when I visited Coyote RV, they were delivering a sharp black 8 footter, which had a really slick 60 watt adhesive solar unit. Rob says they can retrofit that on a camper for about 500 dollars, so I'm considering that too.
stick on solar panel
if it is one of these it sounds like there is a $300 charge to stick it on
http://www.amazon.com/Unisolar-Flexible-Solar-Panel-Laminate/dp/B006EP6MCU/ref=pd_sbs_hi_3
If I was still using my slide in camper I would have put one on the roof. It wouldn't work well for the flippac so I bought a 30watt hard panel with solar controller for about $100.
if it is one of these it sounds like there is a $300 charge to stick it on
http://www.amazon.com/Unisolar-Flexible-Solar-Panel-Laminate/dp/B006EP6MCU/ref=pd_sbs_hi_3
If I was still using my slide in camper I would have put one on the roof. It wouldn't work well for the flippac so I bought a 30watt hard panel with solar controller for about $100.
Right, you have to compare apples to apples. I wonder if the panel is the same one (except I linked a 128w panel instead of the 68w panel). Wire and charge controller ~$100 for a good controller, ~$50 for a cheaper one. He may or may not have included those things in the $500. I use solar panels for a remote gate on my property, you just hook the charge controller up to the battery, they work great.
I wouldn’t imply that he charges too much, usually markup on just about anything installed is double or more than double the cost of doing it yourself. We all derive an income from doing something and being compensated for it. Most of my DIY projects don’t arise from a pure cost basis. I change my own oil because I can do it myself in less time than it takes to drive somewhere to have it done (and once a oil change place broke the difficult to access grease fittings off my wife’s car and didn’t even tell her, I found out by chance). Sometimes I do things myself due to cost alone - broken window on house I replaced myself for <$150 and it was really easy, glass place wanted $500. I used to build stuff because I enjoyed the projects (and saved money), I build less now because I enjoy doing projects less than I used to.
docdave
Aspiring overlander
We're fixin' to take off on our first real roadtrip in our camper, only 3 days to the Black Hills of South Dakota, but a road trip just the same. I had an adventure lubing the fan on the furnace. I couldn't figure out how to get at it, removing the tail light didn't quite do it, so I called Hallmark for advice. Turns out you have to remove the furnace from the camper to get to both sides of the fan. Kind of a pain, but it worked. I also removed the toilet. As I mentioned before, I didn't really like the toilet system in the old Cuchara, it dumps into a common holding tank, so you don't really have a "grey" water tank. I purchase a new model porta potty, so we'll see how that works. Plugging the hole in the floor of the shower/toilet is still underway. I think I'll cut a pair of plywood circles, one the size of the hole, one larger for underneath and cover it with a piece of fiberglass sheeting siliconed in place. Wish us luck.
docdave
Aspiring overlander
Photo from out first multi day camping trip. First night in Custer South Dakota, followed by the usual Black Hills attractions, Flinstones Bedrock City, Mt. Rushmore and Reptile Gardens. The second night required some hunting for a camping spot, as South Dakota State park campgrounds require reservations....however, National Park campgrounds in the area (Wind Cave) had plenty of room. For some reason, following my attempt to lubercate the fan in my furnace, it won't light now.....so it was a bit chilly on that second night. The camper and truck worked well otherwise.....Driving a standard cab truck vs a crew cab on narrow winding roads is a bit less scary, but a bit cozy for three of us. Leveling the camper can be a pain, I've got some of those plastic, interlocking blocks, but they are better suited for a trailer than a heavy pickup. Maybe I need a better set. I was pleased that the battery system was strong enough for overnight with showers for three and evening lighting. Hopefully we'll have another long weekend to get the system down. My 8 year old daughter loves the camper, my wife.....not as much......we'll see.
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docdave
Aspiring overlander
A technical note....My old Hallmark, as mentioned previously, was equiped with a fiberglass top. Not very common for this vintage camper, but a bonus for me. Over time, the center has developed a considerable sag...resulting in water pooling in the middle. The guys at Hallmark told me that if I gradually prop it up during hot weather that the normal crown could be restored. It seems to be working, especially given that we've had weeks or near record hot weather. The center is nearly 2 inches higher than when I started the process. I'm guessing that storing it for winter, placing a prop would prevent redeveloping the problem.
docdave
Aspiring overlander
Just ordered a 1 1/8" rear sway bar for the truck. I remember my family's old hardside swayed pretty bad before the addition of a stablizer bar to the 79 Ford that hauled it. I don't have airbags or helper springs, the weight of the camper seems pretty well balance in the 8' box. I suspect that the standard cab shifts the weight of the water tank closer to the front axle. Lane changes, winding roads and gusts of wind should be a bit less exciting.
docdave
Aspiring overlander
I'm looking for a different back door for this camper. You'll notice from the picture at the beginning of this thread, this old Hallmark has the funky two piece door. Nice for a tall guy like me to get in and out, but inconvenient to use and not weather nor bug tight. It has no screen door either. I called Hallmark, they don't have any doors the right height, and custom made doors are expensive and freight is kinda high....I have 55 1/2 inches from the floor to the top of the hardside. The current door is also 24" wide. I called FWC today, and they are checking their inventory. There is also a RV salvage yard north of Denver...but no luck there either. Looks like I'll need about a 54" door. Any ideas?
docdave
Aspiring overlander
I found a great door source...Emmett door company can make anything that you want, and at a pretty good price too....hope to get it installed soon.....May be swapping the old Dodge off for a Quad cap half as old....we're needing the extra room. Pictures of the door to follow.