Back to a truck Camper!

docdave

Aspiring overlander
I hear that 3M makes a protective film that can be used to protect the roof of the cab from rubbing of the cushion.
 

1stDeuce

Explorer
Hey, I just realized that you didn't post any pics of the new rear door, or mods that Hallmark did to make it work... I'm about to do the same to my old camper, as the 2pc door is really falling apart, and I'm tired of the hassle that comes along with it. I found a door at the camper place in henderson, but they want $200 for a beat up old door, so I think I'll call Emmett and order one up. :)

Did you just shorten the bottom door, or did you widen it a bit? How do you like it? What did they do for the canvas where the old upper door was?

Thanks for any info!!
Chris
 

brian90744

American Trekker
That 3M stuff is great, so long as you don't get sand/grit between the 3M and the cushion. It just rubs thru, to the paint. Good camping to you.



I hear that 3M makes a protective film that can be used to protect the roof of the cab from rubbing of the cushion.
 

docdave

Aspiring overlander
Sorry guys, just picked it up last weekend. The door turned out great, and the installation is quite tidy....but.... in the process the guys doing the repair found some significant water damage around the door. They had to cut about 1 foot up and 6 inches back into the camper and replace the wood, resulting in about 3 times what I originally planed to spend on the project. Bummer..... but, if I'd taken the time and done it myself, I'd be spending my spare weekends this spring working on the camper rather than using it. I'll post some pictures as soon as I get some.
 

bruue1

Observer
I'm waiting to see some pics of that door, this has been a fun thread to follow. Good luck and enjoy your weekends. Camping beats replacing rotted wood for sure. :)
 

docdave

Aspiring overlander
_DSC3554.jpg

Ok, here's some pictures of the door project, and the suspension upgrades. The rear stabilizer bar is from Suspension Connection, it's the largest diameter I could find for a gas powered truck. Also upgraded to Monroe HD shocks. I'm very happy with the door, and the service form Emmitt door company. As noted above, they'll make you pretty much any size door you want, and the prices are reasonable... just watch out for shipping.

_DSC3551.jpg

And from the inside.. showing the finish, and screen door. You can see the softwall plug which is velcroed in place of the upper door panel. I think the guys at Hallmark did a good job with the installation.

_DSC3556.jpg

And the rear suspension.

_DSC3553.jpg
 

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1stDeuce

Explorer
Thanks for the pics Doc! So is the new wood that shows on the inside actually set into the wall, like they trimmed up a piece of pine and set it in to be the structure to tie the side walls together, or is it more of a thin overlay? Edit - I found the zoom feature! I see what they did. It's been re-framed, and then they put new 1/8" luan over the top to tie it in. I can do that! :) Looks like they put new trim on the outside too, above the door. I'll need a piece of that...

I was looking at my door, which I've already rebuilt once, and it looks like I could pretty easily use the top part to shorten the bottom part, and make my own door frame without too much trouble. Just have to wait for my new welder to get here so I can tack the frame together. I still won't have a screen door, but there's no bugs anywhere I'm likely to camp anyway! :)

Worst case, I fail and have to buck up for an Emett door. :)
Or a newer Four Wheel Grandby... :wings:
 
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docdave

Aspiring overlander
Camping and kayaking last weekend.... and a chance to try out a new mattress arrangement. Life is good.


truckcamper3.jpg
 

Rbertalotto

Explorer
We have lots in common......

I bought a $1500 Palomino Bronco and I've been having a blast fixing it up and using it.

Have a look at a bunch of mods I've done.

http://rvbprecision.com/palomino-bronco-1200-camper-project

I added airbags, Rancho 9000 shocks and a Hellwig "Big Wig" sway bar and the truck now carries the 2500 pounds of weight like a sports car. Simply amazing improvement to the ride and handling!

Have fun!
 

Arclight

SAR guy
Oversized screws are an easy fix (i.e. replace a #10 with a #12). But you can also fill in the hole with some JB Weld or 30-minute Epoxy, let it cure fully and then re-drill. You might also consider getting a fiberglass kit to fix dry rotted or water-damaged sections.

Arclight
 

docdave

Aspiring overlander
kayaking.jpg

Following a nice overnight camping trip at a nearby lake, I did a little work on the camper. The factory sound system, in 1993, was a cassette deck with an AM/FM tuner. No CD, no aux jack. Plus, it has a nasty habit of turning on when you bump it climbing into bed. ....So I thought I'd find something else. I really wanted to find a car-type stereo that also tunes shortwave. Scarce as hen's teeth in the US. After a couple of false starts, I found one on ebay. I removed the old unit, and made a panel out of 1/4 inch plywood to fill the space. Then I cut out for the radio, and for a cubby to store my ipod etc in. Turned out pretty good, and works fine....welcome to the 21st century!


radio.jpgF
 
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Freebird

Adventurer
How to fix an oversize screw hole in wood? One of many methods....
Put mixed 5 minute epoxy in the hole, then break round toothpicks in half, and, after dipping each tip in epoxy, tap in as many as will fit in, breaking each one off flush as you go. The hardwood toothpicks are good quality wood, and taping in the tapered toothpick pressures the epoxy into the host wood. Then, after the epoxy sets, drill a new hole the proper size for your screw.
 
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Freebird

Adventurer
One other comment, this one about raising the camper in the bed of the pickup.
Alaskan Campers set me up with four 2x2s running crossways in the bed to allow air to circulate and dry the plywood underfloor of the camper. They have been selling and dealing with wood camper issues since the 1950s, and quite a few of their campers historically reside on the wet coastal areas of the PNW, so they likely are well versed on the options.
A solid piece of plywood in wet climate used to raise the camper can/will wick water/damp up to the underfloor plywood base of the camper, causing wood rot over time.
A rubber mat as described in this thread would not wick moisture, but neither would it allow air to circulate to dry any moisture that finds its way into the plywood base of the camper. The rubber mat might work well in dry climate, but I would personally be hesitant to use it in wet or humid climate, especially if the camper is stored outdoors on the pickup.

This is something that maybe worth consideration for long term camper integrity...?
I'm not an expert.. I'm just along for the ride. :)
 
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docdave

Aspiring overlander
Interesting point. I never considered the moisture problem, although it isn't a particularly wet area where I live..... Still, the substitution of 1x2s for the plywood is something to consider. I wonder if they'd be best screwed to the bottom of the camper, maybe spaced every 6 inches? It would be lighter too.
 

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