Batteries/electrical diagnostic question

kerry

Expedition Leader
Last year I replaced both batteries on my FG because they were dead when I went to pick it up at the storage yard. Went to pick it up at the storage yard yesterday and batteries were so dead they didn't even power the dash lights. It had been in the yard about 4 weeks. Prior to the last time I drove it, it had been in the yard for about 6 months and fired right up when I turned the key. I haven't done a draw test yet on the system to see if something is drawing power with the key off, but the batteries don't seem to be taking a charge so it looks like the new batteries are now defunct. Anyone have any experience with these kinds of electrical problems? It seems like there's an intermittent draw on the batteries with the key off.
 

Stumpalump

Expedition Leader
Charge batts. Disconect red terminal from bat and put your DVM across the gap and set it for amps. That will tell you what the amp draw is. Pull fuses one at a time untill amps go to Zero. Now you know where to start looking. It could also be drawing down from your alternator or anyplace else but you should get the idea.
 

kerry

Expedition Leader
That was my plan once the batteries are charged up, if they will take a charge. But the problem appears to be intermittent so that's why I asked if anyone had run into anything similar. It may take some luck for me to find the draw.
 

GroupSe7en

Adventurer
batts

It could be the batteries themselves. Sometimes when they discharge down below a certain point they never come back. They may appear to have a full charge in them but, for example, where they may have had 100ah initially, they might only have 5ah after the fatal discharge.

I'm currently fighting battery wars on the trailer - arrrgh!

Good luck
 

kerry

Expedition Leader
Only drawing .35 amps with the key off and camper unplugged. .40 amps with the camper plugged in. Those numbers are normal I believe. However, I think I may have located the source of the problem, once I disconnected the positive post to take the reading, I reattached the battery charger directly to the positive post without the cable attached. The batteries immediately showed they were taking a charge. This leads me to conclude that the was a problem with the positive post connection. There was corrosion on it. I'll clean it up and reassemble and see what happens.
 

gait

Explorer
beat me to it Kerry, I suspect on mine that there's a mismatch between the battery posts and the terminals which means a dodgy connection, the clamps don't quite clamp - yet to get around to sorting out.
 

kerry

Expedition Leader
Yes, the battery terminal is poorly designed. Don't know if mine is OE or not but it's a lead clamp to the post with a single bolt sticking up from it with at least three heavy cables and a couple of lighter wires attached to the bolt. Lots of opportunity for poor connections with all those surfaces stacked on top of each other. Took mine apart, cleaned up all surfaces with a wire brush and a liquid cleaner and reassembled. It's working but I anticipate future problerms again.
 

ntsqd

Heretic Car Camper
Suggest some copper based anti-seize between the stacked lugs/terminals?
That would exclude moisture from getting in. If in a wet storage environ you might try grease over the assembly.
 

1Engine

Observer
0.35 Amps strikes me as a bit high.
That puts the batteries flat after about 7 months.
Do you have stereos, amps, reverse cams etc that are drawing a current when they are turned off.
I would have expected more like 0.1 amp total
 

Jacob7963

Adventurer
One thing that has happened to me a few times is this: I think the batteries are dead because the truck won't start, dash lights won't come on, etc. But then the voltage on the batteries looks okay. So I just "jiggle" the connections a bit, especially the smaller wires, and then everything is fine - the truck starts right up like nothing ever happened.

I was thinking maybe I need to clean the dirt off the battery connections, they are pretty dirty.
 

kerry

Expedition Leader
Problem became more complicated. I posted another thread "FG dual battery problem diagnosis". I now have one bad battery and one (apparently) good battery.
 

dhackney

Expedition Leader
Yes, the battery terminal is poorly designed. Don't know if mine is OE or not but it's a lead clamp to the post with a single bolt sticking up from it with at least three heavy cables and a couple of lighter wires attached to the bolt. Lots of opportunity for poor connections with all those surfaces stacked on top of each other. Took mine apart, cleaned up all surfaces with a wire brush and a liquid cleaner and reassembled. It's working but I anticipate future problerms again.

Kerry,

I faced the same challenge with a lot of cables attaching to the start bank, so I added marine buss bars to the system. This allows one connection to the start bank and a clean connection design for all other circuits.

Always use dialectric grease for every electrical connection.

Photos here:
http://www.hackneys.com/mitsu/photos/buildup_album_27/index4.htm

(The first two shots are Steph organizing all the receipts for the truck build. Note that we measured them in inches rather than dollars... :) )

The small coiled wire in the post-buss bar shots is a jumper cable for our dirt bikes.

And, BTW, NEVER work on a hot, smoking battery, even when you are trying to catch a ferry. I know of a guy who was blinded by an exploding battery in those exact circumstances (minus the ferry).

Doug
 

whatcharterboat

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
Hi Kerry and of course Doug . BTW Good job on the postive distribution busses Doug.


Just to throw in my little bit and in case your truck isn't cabled this way already >> (and I should add IMO) whenever you have batteries in parallel as you do with the Fuso start batteries, then I think the positive leads to the truck should be on one battery and the main earth should come off the other battery or off the last battery in the parralel chain if there is more than 2 such as you would have with a big house bank. This should help reduce the chance of one battery getting more or less charge than the other through poor connections.


Oh and so you don't end up with poor connections in the first place, always use something like CRC Battery Terminal Protector Spray or even CRC Electro Shield or some thing that will not just seal the terminals and posts but hang on with heat and not load up with dust. So Vaseline or other similar light greases would not be my first options.
 
Last edited:

kerry

Expedition Leader
Very nice buss bar system. I had decided to go with something like that but hadn't figured out a location. I like the cover. That location gets plastered with dirt on mine if I'm driving in mud. Has the cover kept the flying mud off the connections?
 

Forum statistics

Threads
187,859
Messages
2,899,185
Members
228,996
Latest member
Oregon Duck
Top