patoz
Expedition Leader
Didn't you mention you had a problem with 'Check Brake' light on the dash coming on intermittently? I have a feeling this may have something to do with it.
![sshot-2014-02-27-[1].jpg](https://expeditionportal.com/forum/data/attachments/157/157542-6eb5a25e14f14216f7c018d456f8bf0e.jpg "sshot-2014-02-27-[1].jpg")
Belafonte Reboot....Ambulance to 4x4 Camper Conversion
- Thread starter tgreening
- Start date
Didn't you mention you had a problem with 'Check Brake' light on the dash coming on intermittently? I have a feeling this may have something to do with it.
flightcancled
Explorer
patoz
Expedition Leader
At least you have one that runs and you can use. Mine is sitting in the driveway, and I haven't worked on it in three months. I'm sitting here with chronic back problems, so I'm letting my fingers work on the keyboard.
patoz
Expedition Leader
Yeah, I got the same thing from that. What I was suggesting was that might be a place to start looking if some of the wiring was loose or disconnected. I didn't realize the problem had corrected itself.
Turns out the other box that was hanging down inside the console was indeed the battery monitor. The only reason I can see that it was hanging down there and not installed in the console was because they both wouldn't fit in the cut out at the same time, and that doesn't make a whole lot of sense, unless when it was installed the hole was cut wrong and somebody just said F' it. I took a file to the hole and now they are both installed, and I know the battery monitoring function works because I fired up every light I could find a switch for till the voltage started to drop, and it changed over to yellow. I added a bit of rpm and it swtiched back to green. What didn't happen was any automatic idle control. I had assumed that the amp meter was part of this system but after checking out that awesomely useful installation schematic that got posted I don't think that's the case. I'll have to search out the rest of the control system, IE the throttle actuator and the solenoid. Something is either broke, missing, or disconnected.
Amp Meter: No workee. I took a meter to the back side and those two terminals with the heavy gauge green wire both read 12 volts to ground. The two lower terminals are both grounds. So, there appears to be power to it, but it doesn't indicate. I'm not anywhere near 100% certain how to properly test this gauge, so I'm just guessing that it's bad. Any thoughts, recommendations?
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Amp Meter: No workee. I took a meter to the back side and those two terminals with the heavy gauge green wire both read 12 volts to ground. The two lower terminals are both grounds. So, there appears to be power to it, but it doesn't indicate. I'm not anywhere near 100% certain how to properly test this gauge, so I'm just guessing that it's bad. Any thoughts, recommendations?
Sorry. I followed this thread from the "I sold" thread and didn't realize it was strictly about this build. I'm not intending to talk about buying the vehicle as that part of the journey is over…. I'm in the planning the next phase and eager to see what other people are facing with their builds.
On a side note, there seem to be more type 1's with 4x4 then type 3's and the majority of them (type 1) have had walk throughs.
I'll move on to a different thread…. didn't mean to barge in here ;^)
Vikki
On a side note, there seem to be more type 1's with 4x4 then type 3's and the majority of them (type 1) have had walk throughs.
I'll move on to a different thread…. didn't mean to barge in here ;^)
Vikki
flightcancled
Explorer
Maybe it's an excuse to ditch the dials and go digital with a scan gauge. That would free up room to get the other controller in the dash, give you a lot more info, and simplify your dash wiring too.
That's because they are easier to convert, but I'd imagine that's a crouch through at best the roof is so low. Also they are significantly longer in front and therefore more annoying to maneuver and find a parking spot for.
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That's because they are easier to convert, but I'd imagine that's a crouch through at best the roof is so low. Also they are significantly longer in front and therefore more annoying to maneuver and find a parking spot for.
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flightcancled
Explorer
Belafonte Reboot....
If it turns out to be just the idle controller box that is messed up I might know where you can find one
If it turns out to be just the idle controller box that is messed up I might know where you can find one
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patoz
Expedition Leader
Turns out the other box that was hanging down inside the console was indeed the battery monitor. The only reason I can see that it was hanging down there and not installed in the console was because they both wouldn't fit in the cut out at the same time, and that doesn't make a whole lot of sense, unless when it was installed the hole was cut wrong and somebody just said F' it. I took a file to the hole and now they are both installed, and I know the battery monitoring function works because I fired up every light I could find a switch for till the voltage started to drop, and it changed over to yellow. I added a bit of rpm and it swtiched back to green. What didn't happen was any automatic idle control. I had assumed that the amp meter was part of this system but after checking out that awesomely useful installation schematic that got posted I don't think that's the case. I'll have to search out the rest of the control system, IE the throttle actuator and the solenoid. Something is either broke, missing, or disconnected.
Amp Meter: No workee. I took a meter to the back side and those two terminals with the heavy gauge green wire both read 12 volts to ground. The two lower terminals are both grounds. So, there appears to be power to it, but it doesn't indicate. I'm not anywhere near 100% certain how to properly test this gauge, so I'm just guessing that it's bad. Any thoughts, recommendations?
[/URL][/IMG]![312D0284-8DEC-4F39-AE63-591FB17CDDD6_zpscbnmqmdo.jpg](http://[URL="http://s237.photobucket.com/user/tgreening/media/Photobucket%20Desktop%20-%20Thomass%20MacBook%20Air/CamperVan/2014-02/312D0284-8DEC-4F39-AE63-591FB17CDDD6_zpscbnmqmdo.jpg.html"][IMG]http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff222/tgreening/Photobucket%20Desktop%20-%20Thomass%20MacBook%20Air/CamperVan/2014-02/312D0284-8DEC-4F39-AE63-591FB17CDDD6_zpscbnmqmdo.jpg)
Good job on installing that. Now it looks like mine, except I have an extra bracket on the side mounted in the two panel holes. It also appears mine is not even hooked up since the red wires are not connected to anything.
I took a closer look at the back of both of the switch panels, and it looks like the switches can be just unplugged and re-plugged into sockets on the board. That means you can probably swap one from the rear or vice-versa if need be. However, they may not all be configured the same internally, i.e. SPST vs. DPDT, etc., but in keeping with the modular concept, I'll bet they are. The blue arrow is indicating an empty socket, because mine did not have a switch there. There is a blank plug in the panel hole.
Here is a shot of the back of the engine which shows the Throttle Actuator just to the right of the center of the picture.
And in case you come across this under the dash left of the steering column and wonder what it is, it's a headlight flasher module.
For what it worth, here are a couple of simple procedures to test an Amp Gauge with a VOM Meter.
http://www.ehow.com/how_7943382_test-amp-gauge.html
http://www.ehow.com/how_5904729_test-amp-meter-volt-meter.html
That's all for now...gotta go fix a computer.
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Looks like all you need to do is hook your two reds to an ignition hot and you be good to go. Or so it would seem.
The switches on the panel have pins on their base that plug into those sockets on the circuit board. Pretty sure my switches on the sub panel back in the box have standard spade connectors vs pins. The wires hook directly to the switches. Good news is it makes them a bunch easier to swap out for something newer. Bad new is I can't just use them as R&R switches for the main panel up in the cab. Might be able to gut them for pieces/parts though.
That pic of the engine is uber handy. Looks like the vacuum solenoid is hiding right there tucked under the air cleaner. I just need to bite the bullet, pull the doghouse and check it out.
For me that headlight flasher is located behind my head, in the box, attached to one of the two big wire panels that are back there. Yay, no digging under the dash for it.
Easy enough to check it seems. Should have thought a bit more about it. I just need to pull those two greens and meter between them. If it shows amp draw, I guess the gauge is bad. Hey flight, what's this scan gauge you mentioned? I loves me some flashy digitally looking stuff on the dash.
Hope the computer surgery worked out.
The switches on the panel have pins on their base that plug into those sockets on the circuit board. Pretty sure my switches on the sub panel back in the box have standard spade connectors vs pins. The wires hook directly to the switches. Good news is it makes them a bunch easier to swap out for something newer. Bad new is I can't just use them as R&R switches for the main panel up in the cab. Might be able to gut them for pieces/parts though.
That pic of the engine is uber handy. Looks like the vacuum solenoid is hiding right there tucked under the air cleaner. I just need to bite the bullet, pull the doghouse and check it out.
For me that headlight flasher is located behind my head, in the box, attached to one of the two big wire panels that are back there. Yay, no digging under the dash for it.
Easy enough to check it seems. Should have thought a bit more about it. I just need to pull those two greens and meter between them. If it shows amp draw, I guess the gauge is bad. Hey flight, what's this scan gauge you mentioned? I loves me some flashy digitally looking stuff on the dash.
Hope the computer surgery worked out.
On this... You all know more or less what this used to look like. Pretty standard fare for an ambulance. Used to be a flip top with storage underneath. Carl (PO) opted to make the top fixed, and cut out the front with the idea of making storage drawers. The top was modified into a bed platform.
I want a bed, but I also want a couple of seats back there. I want to be able to take the family with me on occasion and that means seats. I thought about notching out this bench (just like the CPR station found on the opposite side) in a couple of places, putting in sides and bottoms, padding it all and adding seat belts. Probably the easiest thing to do, but I'm not all that sure about how comfortable it would be on a longish trip. Or.....
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I could still cut my notches, but instead of building seats, I could fab in something like this.... It's a 60/40 split bench. I would find a pair of the single seats and install those. Best thing is they fold flat, so I could fold them down when not needed and still have my platform over top to make the bed. I'm assuming there are models like this out there that also recline. If they don't there's not a whole lot of incentive to install these vs just building my own. In order to recline though they need to have some distance from the wall behind. I'm hoping I could mount these to sliders that would allow them to get some distance from the wall, yet still be able to slide back enough when not used to not protrude out into the "walkway" of the van. Any thoughts? Recommendations for suitable seats?
[/URL][/IMG]
I want a bed, but I also want a couple of seats back there. I want to be able to take the family with me on occasion and that means seats. I thought about notching out this bench (just like the CPR station found on the opposite side) in a couple of places, putting in sides and bottoms, padding it all and adding seat belts. Probably the easiest thing to do, but I'm not all that sure about how comfortable it would be on a longish trip. Or.....
I could still cut my notches, but instead of building seats, I could fab in something like this.... It's a 60/40 split bench. I would find a pair of the single seats and install those. Best thing is they fold flat, so I could fold them down when not needed and still have my platform over top to make the bed. I'm assuming there are models like this out there that also recline. If they don't there's not a whole lot of incentive to install these vs just building my own. In order to recline though they need to have some distance from the wall behind. I'm hoping I could mount these to sliders that would allow them to get some distance from the wall, yet still be able to slide back enough when not used to not protrude out into the "walkway" of the van. Any thoughts? Recommendations for suitable seats?
patoz
Expedition Leader
Mine has two flasher units; one under the dash for the headlights and one in that electrical panel behind the driver's seat for the flashing lights on the module itself. It also had a strobe pack which controlled the strobe lights in both the front and back rear light-bars (different from yours, I think), as well as the strobes on the two front fenders.
As far as a couch/bed goes, I'm thing about using something like this. It's made for RVs ($$$) and the seat pulls out to make a full size (?) bed. As an option, you can get it with a drawer underneath for storage. The problem is, would it fit over the wheel well even if the existing box was removed, sacrificing all of the storage space. Maybe, just use the top couch part without the base somehow?
http://www.discountvantruck.com/rvsofabeds/motorhomefurnituresofassedona-I.htm
As far as a couch/bed goes, I'm thing about using something like this. It's made for RVs ($$$) and the seat pulls out to make a full size (?) bed. As an option, you can get it with a drawer underneath for storage. The problem is, would it fit over the wheel well even if the existing box was removed, sacrificing all of the storage space. Maybe, just use the top couch part without the base somehow?
http://www.discountvantruck.com/rvsofabeds/motorhomefurnituresofassedona-I.htm
flightcancled
Explorer
I have gone with rebuilding an electric folding conversion van seat/ bed. Even with the back corner closet/compartment I have a full 6ft length to the door so I can put a plywood platform on the frame and use a standard size futon mattress.
I have thought about making it a living room style layout with another couch in front of the back doors. There would be storage space underneath which seems to disappear rapidly as you remove original outfitting.
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I have thought about making it a living room style layout with another couch in front of the back doors. There would be storage space underneath which seems to disappear rapidly as you remove original outfitting.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Mine has two flasher units; one under the dash for the headlights and one in that electrical panel behind the driver's seat for the flashing lights on the module itself. It also had a strobe pack which controlled the strobe lights in both the front and back rear light-bars (different from yours, I think), as well as the strobes on the two front fenders.
As far as a couch/bed goes, I'm thing about using something like this. It's made for RVs ($$$) and the seat pulls out to make a full size (?) bed. As an option, you can get it with a drawer underneath for storage. The problem is, would it fit over the wheel well even if the existing box was removed, sacrificing all of the storage space. Maybe, just use the top couch part without the base somehow?
http://www.discountvantruck.com/rvsofabeds/motorhomefurnituresofassedona-I.htm
I'll take some pictures of my panels and post them up. Theres a couple of "flasher" thingies in there, and I remember one specifically labled for the headlights.
I looked at those rv couches as well. Besides the price, when folded flat they dont make all that good a sleeping surface, kind of lumpy. That plus the fact that I haven't found one yet that isn't a horrendously overpriced piece of home made crap. Seriously. I havent found anything in the rv industry that isnt absolute junk, which given the cost should be criminal.
The rv industry, at least for the folks that arent buying the hand built one-at-a-time multi million dollar land yachts, is a total joke. It's all about skin deep beauty, and that's where it stops. Like swapping a corvette body on to a corvair chassis, with 200 k already on it. I have a 43' fifth wheel toy hauler that looks great. Pull some panels here and there for maintenance/repair purposes and it takes about 1 look to realize what poorly constructed pieces of junk they really are. Been to the factories to watch construction. Git 'r done, an out the door is the mantra.
Ok. Sorry....all better now.
. Anything Rv gets me a little worked. You look at the electrical panels in your ambulance and just understand you will never ever see anything even remotely professional as that in your standard rv.Back to.....
Someplace in here is a thread where someone did exactly as your thinking, but they ran into clearance issues with the wall when laying the bed out, so they had to mount it to a sliding platfrom. Pull platform out, lay down bed. Put bed up, slide platform back to wall. I dont recall what they ended up with as far as storage goes. Given the design I'm guessing not much.
I'm liking my fold flat seats idea. Pretty sure I'll lose any storage capacity under them, but I should still have something left in between. Think a big square center console kind of arrangement.. Could even put some cup holders in there. Also got an idea for mounting a table in front, that wont take up any space when its stored. Much to do, not enough time to go around, and too stinkin cold! Talk about a motivation sapper.