Belafonte Reboot....Ambulance to 4x4 Camper Conversion

[patoz]

I agree, take any part and put the word 'RV' in front of it and the price triples, just like marine stuff and any kind of safety equipment.

Check out this table support! I believe this would work just about anywhere in the back of an ambulance, but at $350.00 I'm going to have to pass, or build my own version of it.


http://www.rvworldstore.co.nz/lagun-table-pedestal

 

[Ozrockrat]

As far as a couch/bed goes, I'm thing about using something like this. It's made for RVs ($$$) and the seat pulls out to make a full size (?) bed. As an option, you can get it with a drawer underneath for storage. The problem is, would it fit over the wheel well even if the existing box was removed, sacrificing all of the storage space. Maybe, just use the top couch part without the base somehow?

I am on my 2nd version of these sofas. If you go with the least fancy version (minimal pleating and no sculpturing of the back) and go with cloth not the leather/vinyl. We have no trouble sleeping on them and neither of us is petite. Ours were under $800 delivered to the door. And it made the missus happy. So money well spent. This was the first thing I ordered for the Freightliner. My only regret with them is not getting the first one straight away instead of wasting weeks of effort trying to make something myself. Also we do use a quilted mattress protector when in bed mode. Don't even notice the lumps.

Version 1 in the Ford Ambo

Version 2 in the Freightliner. Notice no arm rest (PITA to store when the bed was setup) and darker color as we were worried about marking the other one.

 

[patoz]

I agree, fabric is the way to go. Leather to me is like vinyl, hot in the summer and cold in the winter, and it tears easily. What I liked about that one was the two tone gray color scheme, which is what I'm going with to match the interior of my F250 Super Duty tow vehicle.

 

[tgreening]

Pics of some electrical panels...

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Here's the headlight flasher.

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The panel up above is just to the left of the pass through if you're standing in the box. This one below is just above the pass through.

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Oh, semi good news! You were right about the switches patoz. I checked the ones on the remote panel and while they are wired direct, they are not blade connections. There are pins on the bottoms just like the switches up in the cab, so I CAN swap them in if needed. Now...if I can find replacement covers that can be labled to my liking, that would be sweet.


Carl, if you're still hangin about, there are a couple of wires in that upper panel that have blue tape on them. If I recall one of them was labled "Plug close to fridge" or something like that. The other I'm drawing a blank. Do you happen to remember?

 

[hobietony]

I agree, take any part and put the word 'RV' in front of it and the price triples, just like marine stuff and any kind of safety equipment.

Check out this table support! I believe this would work just about anywhere in the back of an ambulance, but at $350.00 I'm going to have to pass, or build my own version of it.


http://www.rvworldstore.co.nz/lagun-table-pedestal

Those Lagun table pedestals are awesome. It is very clever system that would be pretty hard to duplicate

 

[patoz]

Tony, you're probably right. Last night as I was looking through the Blue Sea Systems website, I convinced myself I'm probably going to spend around $2,000.00 on the electrical system, to get the quality that I want. So, now that I think about it, what's another $350.00 for a quality table setup that as versatile as that one?

I bought the ambulance at a county road department auction for practically nothing, so I've got a little wriggle room on purchasing the components, appliances, etc. that will go in it. But, I can already see I will go over my original budget also.

 

[CLynn85]

Carl, if you're still hangin about, there are a couple of wires in that upper panel that have blue tape on them. If I recall one of them was labled "Plug close to fridge" or something like that. The other I'm drawing a blank. Do you happen to remember?

Did you happen to check the spiral bound notebook I left for you? If it's not written down in there then I have no idea.

Sent from my GT-P5210 using Tapatalk 2

 

[tgreening]

So today was the day I decided to investigate why the idle control didn't work. Naturally this means pulling the switch panel from the doghouse, and then removing said doghouse and wrangling that bugger out of the cab. Good times had by all.

I had feared the necessary pieces/parts were either gone or broken but I got lucky and everything was in place and appeared to be in decent condition. As it turns out the connections to the solenoid were simply loose and a bit corroded. A quick clean up and pinch with my handy dandy multitool and I was in business.

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I'm a bit unclear on exactly how this system is supposed to function, so I'll lay out how MINE functions, and maybe we can compare notes.

Upon startup the system engages and raises the idle, even if I'm reading a good 14.something volts.

I can go ahead and hit the off button and it will turn off.

If it is off and I start loading up the system so the voltage drops, it will turn itself on and raise the idle.

Once the load is removed, or the voltage climbs back up to "normal", it will not drop the idle. It remains in high idle mode.

I will assume that if I put it in gear it will disengage, but I forgot to actually check that.

So to make a short story long, it will raise the idle when load is applied, but once the load is removed it does not drop the idle, unless I turn it off or step on the brake to put it in gear.


Passenger side appears to have bit of oil smeared about. Doesn't look like any major puddling going on but, well, you can see. Does this look like anything to be concerned about and any ideas where it may be coming from? Nothing jumped right out and said "leaking here".

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I have plans to replace the ugly as a mud fence mirrors with something from this century so I pulled the inside trim piece on the door to have a look-see. I removed that big rubber grommet just peeking out from the door panel to see what it was hiding, and promptly dropped it down into the nether regions of the door. I'll find it someday.

Inside:

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Outside: Didn't pull this off yet.

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So, after todays progress I not only have working cruise control, my high idle functions. Neener neener!

 

[patoz]

Your assessment of the high idle control sounds correct. Turning it off, pressing the brake pedal, or moving the gearshift lever out of park or neutral will disengage it for sure. The voltage monitor will activate it, but I'm not sure about disengaging it. Anytime we were on a scene it was always engaged until we left, and then we just drove off. Even if we turned the warning lights off on the scene, we usually left it engaged due to the radio equipment, parking lights, etc. still activated.

So, to answer your question about it disengaging automatically if the load is within limits. I don't know. Sorry...

 

[tgreening]

Did you happen to check the spiral bound notebook I left for you? If it's not written down in there then I have no idea.

Sent from my GT-P5210 using Tapatalk 2

Nothing in there that I could for sure connect to the wires in question. I thought maybe if you looked at the picture I took it might jog your memory.

 

[tgreening]

Today I started work on trying to button up the ceiling. The PO had temp wired in a ceiling fan, which had the wires running in inconvenient places, so I wanted to get that squared away so I could get all the ceiling panels back in place. All those wire bundles are a serious bummer. If I had just a lousy 1 inch more of slack I could move them out of the way enough to install the fan shroud with no trouble. As it is I "can" get them out of the way, but not without putting them under a fair amount of stress. I know sure as ****e that'll bit me in the bum later down the road. The only option I can see is to bite the bullet, buy some good wire, and splice in some extension. I really hate to do that, but not sure there's a choice. Here's the fan...

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The fan was wired in using the ground from the original box ventilating fan, with the power wire being routed up the lighting track to the electrical panel up front, piggy backing onto one of the always hot DC circuits. I cut those connections and pulled out the power feed. I found my way back to the original ventilating fan and pulled it's feed wires back.

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I was REALLY happy to find out Carl had left the factory connectors intact instead of just chopping them off and using but splices. My plan right now is to utilize this fan for ventilation, as nasty loud as it is, until I get the roof fan hooked up again After that I intend to remove the stock fan and use that circuit to run some LED lighting I want to put into all that cabinets.

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I should come up with some kind of use for the space that little fan takes up. Seems a shame to leave it back there unused, though I'm not exactly sure how I'd go about boxing it in without it looking ghetto.


Not much else to report at the moment. The ceiling is buttoned up for the moment, with the exception of that big cutout where the fan is. I have a plan, just haven't started yet. I've been cutting some of that non-skid spongy stuff to put in the cabinets. Don't remember what it's called but lots of people use it for lining tool box drawers.

Also got an annoying power steering leak to track down. It's not "bad", but it's enough to make a mess in the drive, and drive me nuts in the process. I hate leaky dang vehicles leaving spots all over my drive. My Jeeps have already got that covered.

 

[patoz]

I've been trying to figure out something to use that space for also. Maybe make it into a hidden compartment to stash valuables if you park at a campsite and go off in another vehicle.

I'm curious also, how much air that 'Fantastic Fan' moves and how quiet/loud it is. When you get it functioning again how about post and let me know, if you would.

Thanks...

 

[tgreening]

I've been trying to figure out something to use that space for also. Maybe make it into a hidden compartment to stash valuables if you park at a campsite and go off in another vehicle.

I'm curious also, how much air that 'Fantastic Fan' moves and how quiet/loud it is. When you get it functioning again how about post and let me know, if you would.

Thanks...

Another Nite Owl I see.

It moves quite a bit of air actually, but you have to give it somewhere to pull it from. The van is surprisingly tight, so if I don't crack open a window someplace the fan just makes noise.

It's pretty quiet. Not silent by any stretch, but unless you are the lightest of sleepers it's doubtful it would bother you. It would not interfere with conversation. The stock fan on the other hand makes a god awful racket.

Good call on the space. I should take some measurements and head to my local gun store. They usually have any number of little gun safes that just might make a nice little built in semi-hidden lock box.

 

[patoz]

Yeah, I don't usually go to bed until around 3:00-3:30 am, but then I do some of my best work after dark! After 30 years with the Fire Department, sleeping in bunk rooms with a bunch of guys snoring, I got used to sleeping with a fan on to drown them out, so that fan sounds perfect.

A little gun safe is exactly what I was thinking of. I've been staring at that picture trying to think of what kind of door would work on the compartment, maybe with a hidden lock mechanism of some sort. Out of sight, out of mind you know?

 

[tgreening]

One of my goals for this build was passenger seating in the back. Something decent, safe, and out of the way when I don't need it and want a bed instead. So here's the concept...

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Seats came out of a 1999 Windstar(?) There was a 2004 there with the same seats I had started to buy, but these were actually a lot better shape. They still will need a cleaning, but @ $60 for the pair I'm not complaining too much. I'm pretty sure I'm going to end up rebuilding that entire "platform" and making it a bit deeper so I can punch the seats out away from the wall just a bit more. Maybe another 6"-8". I'd like to be able to drop the height about 3", but I don't know how much space is under the bench bottom before I hit the fender well below. If I can't, no big deal. Those plywood walls will both get relocated a bit closer to center to give the seat a couple more inches side to side clearance, and the space between those walls will turn into what amounts to a big center console. If I left it as is there is actually enough room to put another seat, but I'd rather have the console.


The other end of that nose.....

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The top edge of that platform is where the bed used to lay. Obviously this isn't going to work anymore, buuuut....

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They fold flatter than a Japanese woman's chest. My "hope" is to drop the bottom of the platform a bit to lower the seats, and raise the sides of the platform so that when the seats are folded they lay just a tad lower. The new platform will be fan-folded up behind the seat backs against the wall/window area, using the extra space gained from making the platform deeper and pushing the seats away from the wall. I haven't worked out any details yet. I just brought the seats home this afternoon. When it's all done I'll cover the platform in that grey stuff stereo guys like using when they're doing custom console installs. Something like that anyway.

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I think I'm going to pull that window as well and replace it with a bigger one. The framing is done for a larger window so the one in there isn't quite right in my mind, which isn't to say my mind has a clue what it's talking about, but I'm gonna change it anyway.

As always, input is greatly appreciated and welcome, unless it really sucks. Suggestions, ideas, pictures to people that have already blazed this trail?