Better than OEM tie rod ends and suspension bushings?

[gait]

hard to describe the knack .... my apologies if this is teaching grandmother to suck eggs (apologies in advance) .... sometimes a lighter hammer can be moved faster and get the desired shock with better control. A bigger hammer needs a bigger swing and can move the work instead of doing its job. I guess its why there are hammers of different sizes and shapes. Goldilocks is our friend. Not too big, and not too small. Also, the flat face of a ball peen hammer is slightly rounded, which means the impact is a little more local, it can be directed, whereas a woodworking hammer has a flat face 'cos the nail head is small and the hammer is less likely to slide off on impact. Splitting the ball joint needs a very sharp tap with a metal working hammer (at the right angle, which I've never quite worked out and the forklift mechanic forgot to tell us but isn't square on) that distorts the taper rather than a heavy blow knocking the whole joint into orbit.

 

[SkiFreak]

Do Fuso sell replacement ball joint boots as a spare part, or do you have to try and source an aftermarket version?

 

[SkiFreak]

Another "trick" for unseating a taper is to put a heavy object (I use a 50mm x 50mm x 200mm block of steel) directly opposite to where you are going to strike with the hammer. This helps to direct the shock into the joint.
You can also use two hammers, hitting 180 degrees to each other. The challenge there is to have both of them hit at the same time. As has been mentioned, cracking ball joints is a bit of a knack and made to look simple by those that do it on a regular basis.

 

[pugslyyy]

Do Fuso sell replacement ball joint boots as a spare part, or do you have to try and source an aftermarket version?

I'm going to try an aftermarket version. After 10 years all my boots are worn out, even though the joints underneath are still in good shape. I'm adding zerks and new dust boots.

Probably these dust boots - http://www.energysuspension.com/universal-products/tie-rod-end-dust-boots.html

But I won't know until I get everything taken apart and good measurements. Hard to size for a replacement dust boot while the remnants of the old one are still there.

 

[SkiFreak]

Aren't the ball joints a sealed system? Why would you be adding zerks?

 

[pugslyyy]

Aren't the ball joints a sealed system? Why would you be adding zerks?

They are a sealed system on mine, but I like being able to give things a shot of grease now and then - especially after exposing my truck to harsh/caustic environments. With a permanently lubricated ball joint the first indication of a problem is failure requiring replacement.

Newer vehicles have fewer and fewer grease points for a variety of reasons - better materials, lower cost to manufacture, lower cost to service. However, most "performance" upgrades come with greasable joints.

 

[SkiFreak]

The problem I see with that logic is that the boots on ball joints seal at both ends, unlike a shackle on a spring hanger. If you add a grease nipple you can definitely get more grease into the boot, but how does any excess grease get out?

 

[pugslyyy]

The problem I see with that logic is that the boots on ball joints seal at both ends, unlike a shackle on a spring hanger. If you add a grease nipple you can definitely get more grease into the boot, but how does any excess grease get out?

The boots are only joined to the body of the tie rod end, not the ball - that's just an interference fit. The grease comes out there.

 

[pugslyyy]

There is the jackscrew type remover. I have a M-B tool 000 589 44 33 00 what I think is made by Stahlwille, there are numerous others...
Whats better anyway since its kinda creepy beating on steering joints, wont damage rubberseals and who really likes hammering under a car to knock dirt in ones face anyway.

Thanks, I made one this morning. Worked a charm. I used the $12 harbor freight puller as a "core", cut the puller base out of 1/4" plate, and welded it together.

 

[SkiFreak]

Fabrication skills are always good ones to have.

 

[pugslyyy]

Fabrication skills are always good ones to have.

Yeah but it usually reaches diminishing returns pretty quick with me. I think "I'm not gonna pay $100 for that tool I can make it myself"... and then after a days labor I have my tool. I sure wouldn't work for someone else for what I end up paying myself on these projects.

 

[SkiFreak]

I definitely do hear you on that...
I used to have no problems paying the money for a special tool if I determined that it was easier than wasting my time making it, but that happens less now. When your income stream dries up, as mine has, making something myself costs me nothing but my time, so that is usually the path I take these days.
Each to their own, I guess.

 

[pugslyyy]

I definitely do hear you on that...
I used to have no problems paying the money for a special tool if I determined that it was easier than wasting my time making it, but that happens less now. When your income stream dries up, as mine has, making something myself costs me nothing but my time, so that is usually the path I take these days.
Each to their own, I guess.

I just like making stuff, if I have the time. I figure every little project like this makes me a bit better... also I just got a new welder so am kinda looking for excuses to use it.

 

[pugslyyy]

... here is the refurbed drag link

 

[Alastair D(Aus)]

this forum is turning into a colour scheme competition.