BIG TRUCK - little budget

apexcamper

Carefully scripted chaos
Hello all;

I have been a reader for several months now, and while I have posted and replied occasionally on this site, I never had anything really meaningful to say. I put some questions to the forum about different truck options, and even posted for some rapid help when I had insurance issues (special thanx to those of you who threw in your 2 cents). I now have something to say.

We have started our own build!!!

Based on information and advice gained from here as well as my own experiences and former vehicles (oh, and budget....budget was a MAJOR consideration), we went with an Iveco 110-17AW. It may have an Iveco cab, but under that is ALL Magiurs-Deutz.

Air-cooled, mechanically injected, turbo charged, 6 liter straight 6 diesel mated to a 6 speed full-syncro transmission and an air-shift 2 speed transfer case. Full time 4wd with center and rear diff locks. She has a 24,000lbs gross weight rating, but has been legally restricted to 15,000lbs to keep her under licensing restrictions.

The final "sold" point was the large cab with lots of windows. I have a family of 3+2 (hubby, wife, 11yr daughter, plus Whippet and Pomeranian) and the government has temporarily relocated us to Germany. Since we were now in a place with so many travel opportunities, we wanted a long range traveler where we could all be together.

This build is called "Big truck, little budget" because, not only am I a lowly government worker not making big corporate bucks, but we will also have to budget our weight and time. "Maggie", as we are calling her, dry weights at just over 12,000lbs, meaning if we don't shave some weight, we'll have less than 3,000lbs to her legal limit. We are also only in Europe for so long, so if we take 2 years to build this truck, we might not get to the plethora of things there is to see over here.

My plan is to do as much of the work as possible and document everything I do. I am going for an aluminum frame with some wood and foam core FRP or Monopan for the box. Much of the stuff I want is manufactured relatively close (4 hour drive to Monopan factory) so hopefully I can pick it up instead of shipping.

After some delays and set backs, on Monday we finally drove out to pick her up.

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As she was, waiting for us at Philipps

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Should have negotiated for a full tank...oh well, first stop, wallet-raping gas station

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Doing the 6.5 hour road trip back home

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Home safe and sound

first step - the cab.
We removed the rifle mounts and some metal brackets (for items we don't have and don't know what they went to anyway), as well as the handle bar for the back seats. We started on this the night of our road trip to pick her up, so my apologies about there not being any day photos of the Cab as we got her.

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Here you can see the handle bar and upper rifle rack behind the driver's seat

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behind the passenger seat, the handle bar goes all the way across

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Floor behind passenger seat

Once we got all those items out, it REALLY opened up the cab
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Behind passenger seat

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Behind driver seat

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Behind driver seat, a close up of where the racks where.

We plan on building some cabinets for electronics and storage in these area and will be using the screw holes as mounting points. Behind the passenger seat we are installing a 2.5 gallon water tank and small water pump and faucet so that we can easily have fresh water in the cab. This will be paired up with a 12 volt coffee pot and small TV and game console. Behind the drive seat will be storage cabinets and a place to secure a 24 volt cooler to keep cool drinks and snacks on hand.

That is all for now. I hope to have at least one of the cabinets done by next weekend, will update as it goes.
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apexcamper

Carefully scripted chaos
@Gvisconty
Thanx, we are excited to get things going

@Itinerrant
I have watched your build with great envy, and look forward to our families one day meeting on the trail. I am planning on a "glue only" box as well, wondered how it has turned out and if you knew what glue they used. I am looking seriously at the Sabatack 750 system.
 
Have you thought about getting a commercial drivers' licence? Which would allow you to use the full GVM. At least where I live it was relatively easy and allows me to drive a truck of any weight as long as it isn't articulated.

Charlie
 

apexcamper

Carefully scripted chaos
@Victorian
Outstanding, I will definitely be talking to your dad, thanx so much

@charlieaarons
I have considered that option should the need arise. Going over the 7.5 ton marker wont "ruin" the project, it is merely a goal we are working towards. I have read alot of builds that approached or even exceeded GVW and thought they were really pushing their luck if they ever went offroading.

Seems to me that even below but close to GVW and then putting all the weight on one side of the axle would really stress suspension and frame mounts. I read jayshapiro's Eco-roamer thread where his axle broke free of the bonds of suspension and tried to escape and dhackney's thread about his broken frame. Trying to avoid that. Hoping that keeping things below 2/3s of the weight will reduce the need to be as careful.

7.5 ton is also a standard cut off for a lot of small village roads and bridges around Europe, but you are absolutely right. I will be working hard to make that mark, but will be going the CDL route if I miss it.

You may know the answer to this question along the same lines. Is the CDL the only license that gives you an "over 15,000lbs" rating. I wont be driving commercially, just something big. Do all those people driving the class A motor homes have CDL's?
 

LowTech

Dirt Track Traveler
Nope, In fact in Cali you can drive up to a 40' RV w/ a standard lic.
That's one of the reasons that we made our M109 6x6 into an RV. If we had kept it as it was Tuff was going to have to get a CDL, . . . the truck weighs over 10,000 & has 3 axles. As an RV anyone can drive it . . . go figure.
 

apexcamper

Carefully scripted chaos
@LowTech
I always wondered, because it didn't make sense that half the population of Florida would have a CDL:)
So if I am understanding you right, as a truck it required a different license, install a toilet and you are good to go. Sounds about right, I ran into a similar issues with insurance. Is that just a Cali thing, or nation wide?
P.S. Love the truck, friend of mine in Washington has an M35A2 and an M818 tractor, but hasn't converted anything, Looks like You and "Tuff" are having lots of fun.
 
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LowTech

Dirt Track Traveler
It's state by state. For us it's because of the weight & the # of axles. If she only had 2 axles it would be dif.
It took a bit more than a toilet, but not much. I, of course, build live-in rigs so that was the plan all along.
I'm based in A-Zona and can reg my cargo like a big pick-up.
 

RoosterBooster

Observer
apexcamper
i will follow your build with great interest ;)

i`m in the same boat on my (soon to start) new project : big truck - little budget ,
as well as a strict weight limit (just like you i dont want to end with a overweight monster :Wow1:)


IMHO CDL is a box of worms that is better not opened.
my current rig is a Peterbilt 379... i singled it and extended the sleeper to 13 feet. its outfitted with tanks, toilette, kitchen, beds, windows, door, ... just like a regular RV
i do not have a CDL; the Pete is a RV and does not get used in any commercial way.
 

DzlToy

Explorer
All US states have provisions for manufactured RVs to be driven by anyone on a "normal" license (i.e. no special license required). Sometimes this even applies to large motorhomes and motorcoaches with air brakes. A friend of mine has a 40 foot coach with air brakes (maybe air over hydraulic, not sure) and also pulls a 25' enclosed trailer with a car and motorcycles inside on longer trips. Again, no special license.

I have heard of a non-commercial Class A license for large coaches and large trailers (fifth wheels) in some states. So that may be on a state by state basis. As far as converting a former commercial or military truck INTO an RV, that would probably be on a state by state basis as well.

I know that you can also drive things like a "u-haul" type of truck (large moving truck with a 20-26' box on the back) weighing upto 26,000 pounds with no special license. This is true with pickup or MDT towing a heavy trailer as well. The gross combined weight cannot exceed 26k pounds.

So check your state or local statutes. DO NOT RELY on what a cop tells you, DOT tells you, DMV tells you, on a website or in a brochure.. GO READ THE CODES.. Not a bad idea to print them out and keep them with you either. If there is ever any controversy, you have them in black and white..

Cheers and subscribed.
 
Remember, 7.5 metric tons is 16537 lb, not 15000 lb.
But if the GVM is say 11 metric tons then I don't think 9-10 metric tons would be overloading it unless the rear axle rating is exceeded. My trucks GVM is 33000, it weighs up to 28000 depending on fuel, water and supply load. It weighed 22000 with completely empty tanks and empty camper and before front winch. That's how weight increases on these things. That's why I emphasize getting a chassis with sufficient GVM on my posts, learning somewhat from others' dire experiences.

The procedure for getting a CDL in my state:
1) go to DMV and get book, read it cover to cover and remember everything
2) Take test at DMV the next day and pass it, get learners CDL
3) Get medical card (easy for me, I'm an MD with lots of other MDs in my clinic)
4) Sign up to take driving/practical test at a truck driver school, I had to wait a few weeks. I could use my own vehicle because it was legal for me to drive it on a regular licence also since it is set up as an RV, but it has GVM>26000. This test includes "walk-around" with lots of mechanical questions.
5) Go to DMV with paperwork from test, get CDL.

Charlie
 
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RoosterBooster

Observer
....DO NOT RELY on what a cop tells you, DOT tells you, DMV tells you, on a website or in a brochure.. GO READ THE CODES.. Not a bad idea to print them out and keep them with you either. If there is ever any controversy, you have them in black and white...

this ^^^^^ is solid advise.
there is a reason why Truck conversions are called "the dark side" ....
ask 5 peeps (DOT,DMV,LEO,whatever) and you get 7 different answers :Wow1:
do your own research and print it out/keep it in your glovebox to document your legality !!!

the hassle is one of the reasons why i`m selling my (former class 8 commercial semi) Peterbilt and go back to a smaller MDT (already non-CDL/under 26k lbs) as basis for my next rig.
my Pete is a "Toter" (RV front/ short bed with goose- & 5th wheel hitch : IMHO things would be simpler (less commercial looking) if it would be a "straight" truck (motorhome conversion) set up for bumper pull.

i would highly recommend you to do whatever possible to clearly identify your truck as a RV at first glance (fairly simple add-ons with a straight moho/adventure style rig)
this saves you a lot of hassle and downtime (LEO/DOT curbside stops).
also avoid any kind of "sponsor stickers" or any other kind of lettering (i learned that the hard way with my first rig :() ....
basically avoid anything that looks (or could be used) in any way commercial or for compensation.
 

apexcamper

Carefully scripted chaos
@RoosterBooster
When does your build start, I look forward to comparing notes and maybe bouncing an idea or two off each other.

@Dzltoy
Excellent advice, my wife especially loved the idea about printing the codes and keep them with us in the truck, makes too much sense, but never thought of it before...adding that to our "must have" on board papers box.

@charlieaarons
Great info. Spreading the word like that removes some of the apprehension from getting a CDL.
You also brought up an excellent point and oversight on my part...my truck dry weighed in at just over 6 METRIC TONS, has a GVM of 12 METRIC TONS and we have to keep it under 7.5 METRIC TONS...my original post was a dirty ton to lbs conversion in my head, but the specifics are a big deal here.
P.S. You also let it slip you were an MD...I have my "overkill" first aid kit and will be doing a photo inventory in the next couple of days, would love your two cents as to what is good and useless when I post that.

UPDATE!
Just a quick update while I am on here. Got the water pump, faucet, and 10 liter tank for the cab. The in-cab cooler we are going with is the WAECO TropiCool TC-21FL. It's 24 volt and does heating and cooling...and...I got my Toilet.
Ya, maybe not a big deal since we are still months away from installing it, but it made the project real. We went with a Thetford C-402C cassette toilet. 15 liters of flush water and a 20 liter black water tank that can be easily wheeled into a rest stop toilet and emptied. I really liked that fact that it had it's own water supply and the black water tank was easily removed.
 

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