Bigger tires, now need gear solution!

[OldSven]

After having done gears in the old Tacoma, plan for the future of the rig. The parts and install can get expensive so if you plan on running something bigger down the road gear for that. 4.56's with the 3.4 and 5spd was a little high strung on the highway with my 33x10.5's but would be great for a 2.7.

 

[dustboy]

I'm definitely aiming for 4.56 but marlin only sells 4.88s. I could live with 4.88 since the 5th gear at 65 is only about 175 rpm faster, and I rarely go faster than 70. The slower crawl would be a bonus too.

If you haven't seen it yet, Randy's Ring and Pinion has a really good RPM calculator:here

I really like the 235/85R16's and think I'll stick with them for a while. Had the truck since '02 and no plans to sell it or do any rock crawling, I just want to get where I need to go.

I'm also strongly considering dropping in a rear True-Trac while it's apart. Simpler than ARB, and $300 cheaper.

 

[BLKNBLU]

My experience has been with 35s and 5.29s. "Everybody" said that is the perfect combo, but I find it a bit whiny and am running about 10%-ish slower than the speedo indicates. I think I could go to 37's okay.

Lo and behold I ran across this calculator and it looks like I can in fact run 37s.
http://www.4x4offroads.com/gear-ratio-chart.html
With that chart you need to know what your stock tire size was. (29s in my case)

My current 35s should be between 4.88 and 5.29, but closer to 4.88. Ah well, live and learn. I will try 37s after my current rubber wears out and see how that goes. I think your plan for 4.56 is a good one. Get your gears from the guy ZUK recommends (JT's differential IIRC) I got mine through him by accident before I ran across ZUKs recommendation and product/service/price was excellent for Motive gears.

 

[BLKNBLU]

Oh and in regards to the tru trac, now is certainly the time to do it. Whether you will like it depends on how you use the truck. I've never had one but the guys I know who did, did not like them. However, all I know is rock crawlers that are often lifting a wheel. When that happens the tru trac becomes useless. However if you mostly run in low traction situations where both wheels will stay on the ground (mud, steep loose surfaces) it should work very well for you and be more forgiving in ice/snow. I have a lockright that everyone told me I would hate, but I love it. That said I haven't been in snowy/icey conditions with it.

 

[OldSven]

I got my 4.56's from Inchworm Gear. The rears were factory Toyota gears out of new diffs he gets that he swaps different gear ratios into. the fronts were Yukons.

 

[CYi5]

I got my 4.56's from Inchworm Gear. The rears were factory Toyota gears out of new diffs he gets that he swaps different gear ratios into. the fronts were Yukons.

I got my rears from Inchworm too. They went in fine and worked for like 6 months, and then it repeatedly started leaking out of the pinion seal. The gear guy said it was a 30 spline and not a 28 spline...or something like that and the pinion seal was too tight around the pinion. Beats me, they worked fine for 6 months so I doubt it was a gear problem...guess I have a spare set of 4.56's in the garage if I ever feel the need for speed.

Precision gears are good, Yukon's have a sweet bear logo, and yea OEM from inchworm is another really affordable option, I think I paid $150 a couple years ago.

 

[ntsqd]

I have 4.88's and 33-10.50's in a 22R powered truck. The combo works just about right and the speedo is reasonably accurate per my GPS.

What I would recommend doing is work out the stock combo using one of the on-line gearing calculators. Then plug in your desired tire size and try the different available ratios until you hit the same engine speed for the fixed road speed. If you can't hit it spot-on, shoot for a little higher engine speed and go with that ratio.

Oh and in regards to the tru trac, now is certainly the time to do it. Whether you will like it depends on how you use the truck. I've never had one but the guys I know who did, did not like them. However, all I know is rock crawlers that are often lifting a wheel. When that happens the tru trac becomes useless. However if you mostly run in low traction situations where both wheels will stay on the ground (mud, steep loose surfaces) it should work very well for you and be more forgiving in ice/snow. I have a lockright that everyone told me I would hate, but I love it. That said I haven't been in snowy/icey conditions with it.

Per Ed Wong from the old ORC Yota list; when you lift a tire with a Tru-Trac you just need to dab the brake pedal a bit. Doing so will cause the TT to lock up.
I detest driving my Detroit on the pavement, but once on the dirt I forget that it is there. The FJ60 will be getting an ARB for the best of both worlds.

 

[ArmyTaco]

I say 4.88's as well. I had a 2.7 taco and I put the 255/85/16s on there without regearing. 4hi was uselss and I also did not have any extra weight. If you like those skinny 32's you would love the 255/80/16s. Also weight is a big consideration and if you carry alot of gear or plan on andding bumpers, armor, winch etc you will notice it. Since you do not go over 70 really it would crusie good I think. My setup was stock rims. 2 inch suspension lift all around with a 1 inch BL and I never rubbed and loved the traction and extra ground clearance they gave me. So if you go with 4.88's and you think there too much you could step up to the 255's and still not have rubbing problems over the wider tires. I had 31's 32's,wide 33's and the 255's and out of all of those the 255's were my favorite tires. Think about that as gearing is expensive and you do not want to regret it later.

 

[dustboy]

However if you mostly run in low traction situations where both wheels will stay on the ground (mud, steep loose surfaces) it should work very well for you and be more forgiving in ice/snow.

Right, and this is most likely to be the situation where I need it. I have watched locked rigs in steep mud and snow, and both tires lost traction instead of just one, causing it to slide sideways off the trail.

If I have to grab a little e-brake once in a while to make it lock, no biggie. To this day I have never gotten stuck with a lifted wheel even with open diffs. See exhibit A:

Army Taco, you and others are tempting me to lean toward 4.88, and I could see doing the 255/80R16s. If it's a little buzzy until these (brand new) tires wear out, I could probably handle it.

 

[ArmyTaco]

Go for it. If you like the 235's youll love the 255's!

 

[TangoBlue]

You won't be sorry if you go 4.88. Let us know the final decisions and your impression of the results. Mine goes in for surgery 24 AUG (5.29).

 

[Grim Reaper]

Less rotational mass the better the performance. When I put 33's on my 86 runner I ditched the factory steels and went with aluminum. Only gained 6lb per wheel.

Most people that have ever drove a 22r are amazed at how well my truck takes off and the fact that with 4.88's I rarely have to down shift on the hwy. I can also lock down the 33's on dry pavement because I upgraded to the V6 brakes (All bolt on). Not sure if the newer trucks had bigger brakes for bigger motors but the 80's though 95 did. :ylsmoke:

 

[xcmountain80]

4.88's are typical with the 4cyl. and you can run up to a fat or full size 33.


Aaron

 

[xcmountain80]

To this day I have never gotten stuck with a lifted wheel even with open diffs.

Your day will come young Samari your day will come!

 

[dustboy]

I can also lock down the 33's on dry pavement because I upgraded to the V6 brakes (All bolt on). Not sure if the newer trucks had bigger brakes for bigger motors but the 80's though 95 did. :ylsmoke:

I don't know, but I like the brakes on my brother's v6 taco better than mine. I might have used crappy pads though, can't remember. I'm not sure my rear drums are fully doing their job, in almost 100k miles I've never replaced the shoes. I do have an extender on the rear BPV too.

I'm still going to shoot for 4.56 if it's easily available, the motor is a good bit noisier at 2,900 RPM, which is about the 70 mph/4.88 speed. Even with 4.56 I could go to 33s and be doing 70 at 2,600 RPM where there is plenty of power but less noise, which can add to the fatigue on long drives. This is not a rock crawler remember, it is built for expeditions.