Black Friday Ambo
- Thread starter flightcancled
- Start date
flightcancled
Explorer
Plan for tomorrow morning is wrap up the cab. All the padded panels around the door have been redone. All that's left are two side panels which cover the extension.
Following that I will re-insulate and skin the exposed wall. That corner will be my kitchen. Much like the UTE build. Thinking I will have a fridge and stove top there.
A lot of guys like to put everything in the counter on the driver side. When I am working I throw everything on that counter. Every time I go to find it again I find myself ducking to see under the edge of the upper countertops. Doing it for an extend period while cooking would be a literal pain in the neck.
The sink may wind up on the driver side. That would make a gravity water system much easier.
I am leaning towards a gravity sink. I am not interested in a pressure pump, uses power and has to be drained or kept above freezing. Similarly a pump faucet would have to be primed before every use so the tank needs to be close to the faucet. I want a system that is easy to fill, easy to purge and comes on line quickly.
My thought has been install a small tank in the top of the oxygen tank cabinet behind the driver. This is about as high as I can get and still be inside the truck. I can then pass a water line through the air line/ wire chase to almost anywhere in the rig. Because liquids always try to equalize themselves I can make a low point in the line anywhere where a valve can purge the whole system at the end of the weekend, or during the day on a ski trip where the rig will get cold.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Following that I will re-insulate and skin the exposed wall. That corner will be my kitchen. Much like the UTE build. Thinking I will have a fridge and stove top there.
A lot of guys like to put everything in the counter on the driver side. When I am working I throw everything on that counter. Every time I go to find it again I find myself ducking to see under the edge of the upper countertops. Doing it for an extend period while cooking would be a literal pain in the neck.
The sink may wind up on the driver side. That would make a gravity water system much easier.
I am leaning towards a gravity sink. I am not interested in a pressure pump, uses power and has to be drained or kept above freezing. Similarly a pump faucet would have to be primed before every use so the tank needs to be close to the faucet. I want a system that is easy to fill, easy to purge and comes on line quickly.
My thought has been install a small tank in the top of the oxygen tank cabinet behind the driver. This is about as high as I can get and still be inside the truck. I can then pass a water line through the air line/ wire chase to almost anywhere in the rig. Because liquids always try to equalize themselves I can make a low point in the line anywhere where a valve can purge the whole system at the end of the weekend, or during the day on a ski trip where the rig will get cold.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
patoz
Expedition Leader
I normally do all of my cooking outside, so right now I'm not planning on installing a stove top inside. But, I will have a microwave and thought about putting it in that corner compartment. Since it opens to the inside and outside both, a buddy of mine suggested insulating it and making an upright cooler out of the center section. I don't think its deep enough for a refrigerator though.
BTW, can you stand up in yours? I'm 73" and only have 66" of ceiling height except in the center where I removed the full length grab rail. That adds another 3" down the middle so I can go from one end to the other in relative comfort. Needles to say, most of what I do inside will be done from a sitting position.
The top section will have the rear ambulance AC unit removed, and replaced probably with a 120VAC, 8,000 BTU heat and cool 'through the wall' type AC unit. The heat unit at the bottom will be removed also, and I don't know what will go in there, but it might be a likely spot for a battery charger or inverter depending on heat generated and ventilation required.
The gravity feed water supply is an interesting idea for the sink, but do you plan on any kind of outside shower? You may need a pump to get pressure for that, unless you just rig it up outside the O2 compartment and do it like a solar shower, but with cold water only. Brrrrrr!!
Since I removed the drive shaft, exhaust system, fuel tank, and all of the now unneeded mounting brackets, I have all kinds of room underneath for tanks, etc. so I'll probably take advantage of that.
BTW, can you stand up in yours? I'm 73" and only have 66" of ceiling height except in the center where I removed the full length grab rail. That adds another 3" down the middle so I can go from one end to the other in relative comfort. Needles to say, most of what I do inside will be done from a sitting position.
The top section will have the rear ambulance AC unit removed, and replaced probably with a 120VAC, 8,000 BTU heat and cool 'through the wall' type AC unit. The heat unit at the bottom will be removed also, and I don't know what will go in there, but it might be a likely spot for a battery charger or inverter depending on heat generated and ventilation required.
The gravity feed water supply is an interesting idea for the sink, but do you plan on any kind of outside shower? You may need a pump to get pressure for that, unless you just rig it up outside the O2 compartment and do it like a solar shower, but with cold water only. Brrrrrr!!
Since I removed the drive shaft, exhaust system, fuel tank, and all of the now unneeded mounting brackets, I have all kinds of room underneath for tanks, etc. so I'll probably take advantage of that.
flightcancled
Explorer
I'm 5-10 and my ceiling is 5-8. So it's not horrible. Certainly taller than some others I have seen.
I was floored by how much space I seemed to gain by pulling that unit out. The affect won't be as grand for you though without a cab on the other side.
I'm not super worried about a shower right now, and have put no thought into it until now. I would either use a cheap solar shower bag or build a small water heater to run off a coolant heater. Really don't plan on taking all at much water with me for most trips. Prior to an extended trip I would probably rig an outside shower. Thinking an exterior threaded sleeve I keep capped when not in use and a simple platform. If I really want to get tricky I could weld a receiver hitch to the frame and slide something like a cargo platform into that to keep me off the ground.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I was floored by how much space I seemed to gain by pulling that unit out. The affect won't be as grand for you though without a cab on the other side.
I'm not super worried about a shower right now, and have put no thought into it until now. I would either use a cheap solar shower bag or build a small water heater to run off a coolant heater. Really don't plan on taking all at much water with me for most trips. Prior to an extended trip I would probably rig an outside shower. Thinking an exterior threaded sleeve I keep capped when not in use and a simple platform. If I really want to get tricky I could weld a receiver hitch to the frame and slide something like a cargo platform into that to keep me off the ground.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
patoz
Expedition Leader
It figures, you're shorter and get the taller rig... 
Here is a way you can have hot water and not use any power other than idling your vehicle for a few minutes. However, it will require a 12VDC pump.
Back in the '80s when I was big into off-road 4x4 truck camping, I took a marine heat exchanger, brazed 5/8" barbed fittings on each end, and mounted it under the hood in line with my vehicle heater hose, with the radiator water flowing through the larger tubes. Then, I plumbed the smaller tubes to the rear of the vehicle and connected one side to a 12VDC SureFlow pump with the pressure demand electric valve. This became the intake side of the system. The other side became the discharge side and was connected to a handheld shower sprayer with a on-off valve. With this setup, the pump only pumps cold water and not hot which will damage the pump itself. I bought the heat exchanger at a marine surplus store for something like $20.00 back then, and it's made out of solid copper. It's about 12" long and 2.5" in diameter.
When you wanted to take a hot shower (and I do mean HOT), you just dropped an intake hose into a bucket of water (or your water tank), stream, river, etc. and cranked up the truck. In a few minutes when the engine warmed up, the water flowing through the exchanger from the pump would be plenty hot to shower with even in the winter time. With the older vehicles, we found you could change the water temperature somewhat by turning the vehicle heater on, and using the temperature slide control, which would determine how much radiator water flowed through the heat exchanger.
Eventually, we found the best way to set the water temperature was to use a 6 gal plastic water can full of water (or your water tank), and keep recirculating the water through the system and back into the can until you reached the temperature you wanted. This usually only took about five minutes. Then shut the engine off and pump out of the can (or tank) to take your shower. I built a nice looking control panel and mounted it under my rear bumper, next to the receiver hitch. The panel had a power switch and pilot light for the pump, and intake and discharge 'quick connect fittings' using 3/8" pressure washer fittings.
Here is a way you can have hot water and not use any power other than idling your vehicle for a few minutes. However, it will require a 12VDC pump.
Back in the '80s when I was big into off-road 4x4 truck camping, I took a marine heat exchanger, brazed 5/8" barbed fittings on each end, and mounted it under the hood in line with my vehicle heater hose, with the radiator water flowing through the larger tubes. Then, I plumbed the smaller tubes to the rear of the vehicle and connected one side to a 12VDC SureFlow pump with the pressure demand electric valve. This became the intake side of the system. The other side became the discharge side and was connected to a handheld shower sprayer with a on-off valve. With this setup, the pump only pumps cold water and not hot which will damage the pump itself. I bought the heat exchanger at a marine surplus store for something like $20.00 back then, and it's made out of solid copper. It's about 12" long and 2.5" in diameter.
When you wanted to take a hot shower (and I do mean HOT), you just dropped an intake hose into a bucket of water (or your water tank), stream, river, etc. and cranked up the truck. In a few minutes when the engine warmed up, the water flowing through the exchanger from the pump would be plenty hot to shower with even in the winter time. With the older vehicles, we found you could change the water temperature somewhat by turning the vehicle heater on, and using the temperature slide control, which would determine how much radiator water flowed through the heat exchanger.
Eventually, we found the best way to set the water temperature was to use a 6 gal plastic water can full of water (or your water tank), and keep recirculating the water through the system and back into the can until you reached the temperature you wanted. This usually only took about five minutes. Then shut the engine off and pump out of the can (or tank) to take your shower. I built a nice looking control panel and mounted it under my rear bumper, next to the receiver hitch. The panel had a power switch and pilot light for the pump, and intake and discharge 'quick connect fittings' using 3/8" pressure washer fittings.
patoz
Expedition Leader
This is a concept I kinda like, and I may do something like this. It's designed to catch and contain the shower water in a gray-water tank (pay campgrounds) or route it away from your vehicle via a drain hose connected to the pan. It could also be used as a restroom area for a porta-potti.
flightcancled
Explorer
I'm going to think on it. I want the minimum amount of plumbing possible with a central drain valve. that can dump the whole system. Freezing lines inside the walls is a very real possibility and nightmare. I'm thinking more like an expanded steel deck platform that would go on the side of the rig. No horizontal water line going 15-20 feet more or less flat with weird dips and twists which will trap water.
Also pay campgrounds and I don't mix well. Especially when every busy body wants to ask me about "those funny canoes" and then tell me in great detail about a time they went rafting on a river I know intimately well. Someone is always way too drunk, or as likely telling me I've had more than enough. Add to that them now wanting to mess around in my rig....
Not nearly enough progress:
Closing up a wall that wasn't meant to be closed up is a pain. Wires have to be routed so they are flush. That means drilling and/or notching supports. In this case I had to add furring strips so I actually had something to screw into to mount the fiberboard. (Did I mention I absolutely loath working with this crap!?). Leftovers from the floor were also 1/2" so I used floor mat as insulation.
You can see I also the mat for insulation in the top corner where the projector converted light is. I wanted to make sure I left plenty of air space so it doesn't overheat. As is the bowl protrudes back an additional 2" so I will have to box it out.
While I was here I started removing some excess wiring, starting from the passenger side and going all the way to the board. Funny to just now be doing what many people do as soon as they are done sledgehammering out the interior.
Above the cad ceiling I started by adding waterproofing to the inside of the cut where the extension and the box meet. This has been leaking badly, and for whatever reason I keep forgetting to order a new seal. Now it's redundant- When I do replace it that is.
Supporting the roof of the extension. The factory glassed in 3/4 plywood sections for the light bar mounts, but that was all it was designed to hold. Now at least those pads are supported by the steel frame in the cab.
You can also see the sharp new carpet job I did this weekend there.
I'm chasing down a lot of little "since I am here I should really" projects right now while I have a lot of space open. Carving out a little bit of space here and there. It all adds up, but it really slows me down.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Also pay campgrounds and I don't mix well. Especially when every busy body wants to ask me about "those funny canoes" and then tell me in great detail about a time they went rafting on a river I know intimately well. Someone is always way too drunk, or as likely telling me I've had more than enough. Add to that them now wanting to mess around in my rig....
Not nearly enough progress:
Closing up a wall that wasn't meant to be closed up is a pain. Wires have to be routed so they are flush. That means drilling and/or notching supports. In this case I had to add furring strips so I actually had something to screw into to mount the fiberboard. (Did I mention I absolutely loath working with this crap!?). Leftovers from the floor were also 1/2" so I used floor mat as insulation.
You can see I also the mat for insulation in the top corner where the projector converted light is. I wanted to make sure I left plenty of air space so it doesn't overheat. As is the bowl protrudes back an additional 2" so I will have to box it out.
While I was here I started removing some excess wiring, starting from the passenger side and going all the way to the board. Funny to just now be doing what many people do as soon as they are done sledgehammering out the interior.
Above the cad ceiling I started by adding waterproofing to the inside of the cut where the extension and the box meet. This has been leaking badly, and for whatever reason I keep forgetting to order a new seal. Now it's redundant- When I do replace it that is.
Supporting the roof of the extension. The factory glassed in 3/4 plywood sections for the light bar mounts, but that was all it was designed to hold. Now at least those pads are supported by the steel frame in the cab.
You can also see the sharp new carpet job I did this weekend there.
I'm chasing down a lot of little "since I am here I should really" projects right now while I have a lot of space open. Carving out a little bit of space here and there. It all adds up, but it really slows me down.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last edited:
flightcancled
Explorer
The walls are starting to close up again.
A peek at an example of the trimming I have been doing to open up a bit more space.
For whatever reason the exterior skin went all the way down, and there was another piece of sheet metal on the bottom of the crossbar, with plywood screwed on that which the interior carpet was glued to. To the scrap bin it goes.
In other news my floor choice already paid for itself. The grinder slipped and cut my finger wide open from the first knuckle to my hand. I instinctively dropped the grinder where it gouged an 18" hole into the floor. Would have been a total loss of I had put the carpet in. Now I just need a new floor panel.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
A peek at an example of the trimming I have been doing to open up a bit more space.
For whatever reason the exterior skin went all the way down, and there was another piece of sheet metal on the bottom of the crossbar, with plywood screwed on that which the interior carpet was glued to. To the scrap bin it goes.
In other news my floor choice already paid for itself. The grinder slipped and cut my finger wide open from the first knuckle to my hand. I instinctively dropped the grinder where it gouged an 18" hole into the floor. Would have been a total loss of I had put the carpet in. Now I just need a new floor panel.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last edited:
patoz
Expedition Leader
Looks like you're making pretty good progress to me!
What kind of wheel are you using to cut the aluminum? Just remember, it's going to be hard to hold the paddle for those 'funny little canoes' if you cut your fingers off.
BTW, what did you do to fix those seat belts I sent you? It looks like I see a gray one sticking up in a picture in post # 413.
What kind of wheel are you using to cut the aluminum? Just remember, it's going to be hard to hold the paddle for those 'funny little canoes' if you cut your fingers off.
BTW, what did you do to fix those seat belts I sent you? It looks like I see a gray one sticking up in a picture in post # 413.
flightcancled
Explorer
At least it burns though you so it doesn't bleed at all. Doesn't look too bad but when seen from the side it's a beauty.
I keep thinking about the line from Master and Commander about how Captain Jack had bled enough into the boat that they were basically related. Judging my my current exhaustion driven accident rate by the time I finish the major hack jobs I have planned we are going to be family.
Thin dewalt cut off blades. They burn up faster when abused, but time is short and less kerf means less mess and more to take in for scrap. They also are my secret weapon for trimming and fitting the wallboard.
Yup those are them. Nothing has managed to put Humpty Dumpty back together again, but on the plus side they drop out of the way. You have to grab them to clip in, but whatever.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I keep thinking about the line from Master and Commander about how Captain Jack had bled enough into the boat that they were basically related. Judging my my current exhaustion driven accident rate by the time I finish the major hack jobs I have planned we are going to be family.
Thin dewalt cut off blades. They burn up faster when abused, but time is short and less kerf means less mess and more to take in for scrap. They also are my secret weapon for trimming and fitting the wallboard.
Yup those are them. Nothing has managed to put Humpty Dumpty back together again, but on the plus side they drop out of the way. You have to grab them to clip in, but whatever.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last edited:
patoz
Expedition Leader
I hate that I cut the covers, but that was the result of an hour's worth of frustration in 95* heat, trying to get them out. At least I cut them on the bottom where it doesn't show. However, because of that situation I now remove anything very carefully, no matter how insignificant the part may be. Someone may need it, or I may be able to use it later for something else.
If you want them to stand up, why don't you make some 'L' shaped aluminum stiffeners and slide them inside the covers on the side of the belt away from the seat (towards the center of the vehicle) and under the mounting bracket with the bolt going through a hole in the short side. The idea being to keep the aluminum on the outside of the belt when it tightens up in an accident. Just be sure to remove any burs or sharp edges.
BTW, do you still need the dash trim parts I saved for you?
flightcancled
Explorer
Yeah Pat I totally forgot about that. Let me have a look at that again.
Question for you and anyone else with a expertise in the emergency vehicle world: I discovered today that I can order new key lock drums for my exterior compartment and box access doors. As in all these latches open to the exact same key! Is this common? Is it common knowledge? I don't want anyone and everyone who has been an EMT having a way into my rig.
At the same time John Deere tractors are known for running off the same key and they don't just get stolen all the time.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Question for you and anyone else with a expertise in the emergency vehicle world: I discovered today that I can order new key lock drums for my exterior compartment and box access doors. As in all these latches open to the exact same key! Is this common? Is it common knowledge? I don't want anyone and everyone who has been an EMT having a way into my rig.
At the same time John Deere tractors are known for running off the same key and they don't just get stolen all the time.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
patoz
Expedition Leader
Yep, the keys are common to an extent. They may be different from one manufacturer to another, but will most likely be the same for units made by the same manufacturer. It's cheaper for them to build it that way, and makes it easier for an organization with multiple units to use the same key. A lot of the older units use a 501 or 510 key.
The average person won't know this, but most EMTs/Paramedics who work on ambulances do. And for that reason, I'll be changing mine out eventually also.
No rush on the dash stuff, I just want to make sure I don't get rid of anything if you might need it.
The average person won't know this, but most EMTs/Paramedics who work on ambulances do. And for that reason, I'll be changing mine out eventually also.
No rush on the dash stuff, I just want to make sure I don't get rid of anything if you might need it.
Alex, a while back you had some shots of the engine bay while you were figuring out the slow cranking issue. I believe you removed an isolator for the batteries. Anyways, one of the pictures is of the alternator area and right above that coming out of the wiring harness is a plug. What is that? Looks like a typical 110v plug
patoz
Expedition Leader
It's for the Engine Block Heater.