Black Friday Ambo
- Thread starter flightcancled
- Start date
flightcancled
Explorer
8 hours later:
Who knew that would take so long!? I probably could have left the 20% of the paint that was left, but I could already see that additional layers of paint would eventually pull it up. Now I have a blank canvas.
Once I got away from the center I got down to one coat of paint and primer, this did NOT want to come off easily! Eventually I had to break out the heat gun and wire brush for the drill.
Besides the amount of time it would take can anyone give me a reason not to pull off the top clearance lights? Are they required for some state inspections or something? Has anyone found them to be useful?
The "chrome" housings are starting to rust and I really don't like the way they look. I am wrapping the white bed-liner down to the gutters so I can drag boats up to the roof, so I have to pull them off anyway. Seems like I might as well use some filler and make them disappear.
I am also really looking forward to taking off that hideous padlock mount on the back doors.
I have a ton of silicone to get off the paint from the covers I removed over the light holes. Does anyone have a good method for this?
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Who knew that would take so long!? I probably could have left the 20% of the paint that was left, but I could already see that additional layers of paint would eventually pull it up. Now I have a blank canvas.
Once I got away from the center I got down to one coat of paint and primer, this did NOT want to come off easily! Eventually I had to break out the heat gun and wire brush for the drill.
Besides the amount of time it would take can anyone give me a reason not to pull off the top clearance lights? Are they required for some state inspections or something? Has anyone found them to be useful?
The "chrome" housings are starting to rust and I really don't like the way they look. I am wrapping the white bed-liner down to the gutters so I can drag boats up to the roof, so I have to pull them off anyway. Seems like I might as well use some filler and make them disappear.
I am also really looking forward to taking off that hideous padlock mount on the back doors.
I have a ton of silicone to get off the paint from the covers I removed over the light holes. Does anyone have a good method for this?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last edited:
patoz
Expedition Leader
Besides the amount of time it would take can anyone give me a reason not to pull off the top clearance lights? Are they required for some state inspections or something? Has anyone found them to be useful?
The "chrome" housings are starting to rust and I really don't like the way they look. I am wrapping the white bed-liner down to the gutters so I can drag boats up to the roof, so I have to pull them off anyway. Seems like I might as well use some filler and make them disappear.
The clearance light are required by the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration,
Office of Safety Performance Standards, Title 49 - Code of Federal Regulations, Section 571.108 on any vehicle over 80" wide (2032mm), and Type III Ambulances are generally from 90" to 96" wide. So yes, you have to keep them.
Scroll down to number 2 thru 7 on this chart: http://icsw.nhtsa.gov/cars/rules/standards/conspicuity/TBMpstr.html
I like the blue stripe, and I'm thinking of using something like that on mine. But instead of an official logo on the side, I may use something related to camping like a campfire or something.
flightcancled
Explorer
404 not found
Now does that apply to the manufacturer or the owner? Is it illegal for me to delete them?
Edit: Ok found it. It seems to be geared towards the manufacturer, not the user. I'm not sure if as the owner I am allowed to remove the lights.
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Now does that apply to the manufacturer or the owner? Is it illegal for me to delete them?
Edit: Ok found it. It seems to be geared towards the manufacturer, not the user. I'm not sure if as the owner I am allowed to remove the lights.
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Last edited:
patoz
Expedition Leader
That is a Federal Instruction and applies to any vehicle meeting that requirement (width) and operating on the highways.
Since you posted '404 not found', I'm guessing you couldn't open the link, however I just verified it and it is working. Maybe try it from home on a computer, or try searching Title 49 - Code of Federal Regulations, Section 571.108. You might also try contacting your local Highway Patrol just to see what they say.
The purpose of the clearance lights is to let oncoming and passing traffic know your vehicle is wider than normal, so they can make the appropriate allowances. Even though mine will be turned into a camper trailer, it must meet the same requirements with the exception of the three amber lights on the front center. They are not required on a trailer. http://www.nhtsa.gov/cars/rules/standards/conspicuity/trlrpstr.html
Since you posted '404 not found', I'm guessing you couldn't open the link, however I just verified it and it is working. Maybe try it from home on a computer, or try searching Title 49 - Code of Federal Regulations, Section 571.108. You might also try contacting your local Highway Patrol just to see what they say.
The purpose of the clearance lights is to let oncoming and passing traffic know your vehicle is wider than normal, so they can make the appropriate allowances. Even though mine will be turned into a camper trailer, it must meet the same requirements with the exception of the three amber lights on the front center. They are not required on a trailer. http://www.nhtsa.gov/cars/rules/standards/conspicuity/trlrpstr.html
flightcancled
Explorer
Yeah, I guess that's a very good reason to keep them. I will be spending a lot of time on back roads after all.
I'm in that in between range where I have to have the top lights, and two on my back corners, but not along my sides. So in essence the lights aren't doing much if anything for other vehicles, and certainly not oncoming traffic. By the time you can see the clearance lights your headlights will show the big white box.
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I'm in that in between range where I have to have the top lights, and two on my back corners, but not along my sides. So in essence the lights aren't doing much if anything for other vehicles, and certainly not oncoming traffic. By the time you can see the clearance lights your headlights will show the big white box.
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flightcancled
Explorer
patoz
Expedition Leader
OK, it's after midnight and I give up, but here is what I have found which is basically what I already posted.
ELECTRONIC CODE OF FEDERAL REGULATIONS
Browse Previous | Browse Next
Title 49: Transportation
PART 571—FEDERAL MOTOR VEHICLE SAFETY STANDARDS
Subpart B—Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards
§571.108 Standard No. 108; Lamps, reflective devices, and associated equipment.
http://www.ecfr.gov/cgi-bin/text-id...e9e9e026935&node=49:6.1.2.3.37.2.7.8&rgn=div8
This is a very long document, but this chart is about mid screen when you scroll down.
Right above this section it talks about headlights, brake lights, etc, so the way I interpret this is: clearance and identification (three in the middle) lights are required for vehicles > 80" wide just like headlights, brake lights, etc. So, if you elect to remove them you're in violation just like you would be if you removed the headlights or brake lights.
This Standard is about as official as it gets, so I don't think we're going to find anything to the contrary.
I hope this helps and I know I learned a few things researching this.
~Pat
ELECTRONIC CODE OF FEDERAL REGULATIONS
e-CFR Data is current as of March 6, 2014 |
Title 49: Transportation
PART 571—FEDERAL MOTOR VEHICLE SAFETY STANDARDS
Subpart B—Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards
§571.108 Standard No. 108; Lamps, reflective devices, and associated equipment.
Table I-a—Required Lamps and Reflective Devices
| Additional Lamps Required on All Multipurpose Passenger Vehicles (MPV), Trucks, and Buses, 2032 MM or More in Overall Width | ||||
| Clearance lamps | 2 Amber | On the front to indicate the overall width of the vehicle, or width of cab on truck tractor, at the same height, symmetrically about the vertical centerline May be located at a location other than the front if necessary to indicate the overall width of the vehicle, or for protection from damage during normal operation of the vehicle. | As near the top as practicable | Steady burning. |
| 2 Red (not required on truck tractor) | On the rear to indicate the overall width of the vehicle, at the same height, symmetrically about the vertical centerline May be located at a location other than the rear if necessary to indicate the overall width of the vehicle, or for protection from damage during normal operation of the vehicle. | As near the top as practicable, except where the rear identification lamps are mounted at the extreme height of the vehicle. Practicability of locating lamps on the vehicle header is presumed when the header extends at least 25 mm (1 inch) above the rear doors. | Steady burning. | |
| Identification lamps | 3 Amber | On the front, at the same height, as close as practicable to the vertical centerline, with lamp centers spaced not less than 6 inches or more than 12 inches apart | As near the top of the vehicle or top of the cab as practicable | Steady burning. |
| 3 Red (not required on truck tractor) | On the rear, at the same height, as close as practicable to the vertical centerline, with lamp centers spaced not less than 6 inches or more than 12 inches apart | As near the top as practicable Practicability of locating lamps on the vehicle header is presumed when the header extends at least 25 mm (1 inch) above the rear doors. | Steady burning. |
http://www.ecfr.gov/cgi-bin/text-id...e9e9e026935&node=49:6.1.2.3.37.2.7.8&rgn=div8
This is a very long document, but this chart is about mid screen when you scroll down.
Right above this section it talks about headlights, brake lights, etc, so the way I interpret this is: clearance and identification (three in the middle) lights are required for vehicles > 80" wide just like headlights, brake lights, etc. So, if you elect to remove them you're in violation just like you would be if you removed the headlights or brake lights.
This Standard is about as official as it gets, so I don't think we're going to find anything to the contrary.
I hope this helps and I know I learned a few things researching this.
~Pat
flightcancled
Explorer
flightcancled
Explorer
Just found the original interior photos the PO sent me. I can't believe I drove to Boston to go get this. Glad I did though!
Spent some time looking into ladders today at Harbor Frieght. Still no closer to a decision. Mounting to the box would be from a bent metal strap. Maybe modified strong-ties? Seems like by the time I go through all the effort the pre-made folding steps will be a more elegant solution.
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Spent some time looking into ladders today at Harbor Frieght. Still no closer to a decision. Mounting to the box would be from a bent metal strap. Maybe modified strong-ties? Seems like by the time I go through all the effort the pre-made folding steps will be a more elegant solution.
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flightcancled
Explorer
Well thanks for nothing Northern Tool.
These are the folding steps I was going to spend the weekend installing. Now I need to sand or blast them down and bed line them with the stuff I'm using for the roof.
My concern has been that the thin aluminum skin will bend and pull under the stress of the steps in my chosen location above the rear passenger tires. My plan is to use angle steel bolted to the frame as support. One side will bolt sideways through the frame, and the other will be against the skin for the steps to bolt onto.
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These are the folding steps I was going to spend the weekend installing. Now I need to sand or blast them down and bed line them with the stuff I'm using for the roof.
My concern has been that the thin aluminum skin will bend and pull under the stress of the steps in my chosen location above the rear passenger tires. My plan is to use angle steel bolted to the frame as support. One side will bolt sideways through the frame, and the other will be against the skin for the steps to bolt onto.
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patoz
Expedition Leader
I like you interior color scheme much better than mine. I don't know why for so many years, ambulance builders were so obsessed with using blood-red/maroon for all of the interior trim and upholstery. It's flat out ugly!
On your steps project, I think I understand what you intend to do with the bracing. Just keep in mind that the body is usually mounted on rubber isolation pads over the vehicle frame. If you tie the two together with a brace, you may see stress cracking on the aluminum body later on down the road. Now if you're talking about bolting to the aluminum floor frame of the module and then going up the side, you would probably be OK.
Those are the same steps we had on our fire trucks, except ours were chrome. They are always mounted through the body and side frame, usually with some kind of backing plate also. They are never mounted through the skin alone. As you climb, your entire weight is placed on a single step, one at a time. In the case of a firefighter, that may be as much as 250-350 lbs with full gear on, all placed on just two mounting bolts.
Just a few things to consider before the drill comes out...
On your steps project, I think I understand what you intend to do with the bracing. Just keep in mind that the body is usually mounted on rubber isolation pads over the vehicle frame. If you tie the two together with a brace, you may see stress cracking on the aluminum body later on down the road. Now if you're talking about bolting to the aluminum floor frame of the module and then going up the side, you would probably be OK.
Those are the same steps we had on our fire trucks, except ours were chrome. They are always mounted through the body and side frame, usually with some kind of backing plate also. They are never mounted through the skin alone. As you climb, your entire weight is placed on a single step, one at a time. In the case of a firefighter, that may be as much as 250-350 lbs with full gear on, all placed on just two mounting bolts.
Just a few things to consider before the drill comes out...
Last edited:
flightcancled
Explorer
Don't worry man, that was a job from hell anyway! I am never eating from that chain again.
Yeah we will see how it goes with them. I was hoping to just scuff the paint and brush on bed liner. Now I am all tied up with getting these exchanged.
I'm trying to avoid bolting through the frame because it will mean one of a few things: training as a contortionist, bumps in the wall behind the couch bed or opening a new section of wall up. I am hoping that using the angle stock steel will let me avoid all of the above.
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Yeah we will see how it goes with them. I was hoping to just scuff the paint and brush on bed liner. Now I am all tied up with getting these exchanged.
I'm trying to avoid bolting through the frame because it will mean one of a few things: training as a contortionist, bumps in the wall behind the couch bed or opening a new section of wall up. I am hoping that using the angle stock steel will let me avoid all of the above.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk