Blaz's 2005 blazer

[blaz]

I did a little research and it appears that front driveshaft failure is common on lifted S series vehicles. It is usually caused by the change in angle from the diff drop. My diff has not been dropped, so what is causing the angle change? I tore into things a bit today and found that my trans mount is really loose (rubber is separating). The torque of the motor is lifting the front driveshaft and changing the angle. I really hope this is the solution. I will change the mount and the driveshaft and go wheeling again. I do have a spare T-case that has a fixed yoke sitting in the shed so if this doesn't fix the problem the other case will go in with a double u-joint shaft.

I could go back to the stock 28" tires and never have a problem again, but what fun would that be? :sombrero:

 

[AA1PR]

Yeah best of luck too bad it wasnt the older stlye (2.8 V6) as I think I have a trans & maybe the transfer case in the shed just collecting dust I would get rid of...then again your too far away

 

[4x4x4doors]

I did a little research and it appears that front driveshaft failure is common on lifted S series vehicles. It is usually caused by the change in angle from the diff drop. My diff has not been dropped, so what is causing the angle change? I tore into things a bit today and found that my trans mount is really loose (rubber is separating). The torque of the motor is lifting the front driveshaft and changing the angle. I really hope this is the solution. I will change the mount and the driveshaft and go wheeling again. I do have a spare T-case that has a fixed yoke sitting in the shed so if this doesn't fix the problem the other case will go in with a double u-joint shaft.

I could go back to the stock 28" tires and never have a problem again, but what fun would that be? :sombrero:

Perzactly.

If the trans mount is due for replacement, take a look at the engine mounts at the same time.

 

[blaz]

Perzactly.

If the trans mount is due for replacement, take a look at the engine mounts at the same time.

Yup, checked the motor mount on the drivers side today and it is separated too. Two motor mounts and a trans. mount in Canada runs $112. They are ordered and will be here by friday. Great long week end coming up!

 

[blaz]

Trans. mount didn't come in for this week end, but I did get the driver's side motor mount done. I don't think I will do the passenger side right now as it is still tight and most of the motor torque is applied to the driver's side.

A few tips I learnt;

It is easy to remove the mount if it is broken into two pieces
if you slot the bottom hole on the new mount it goes in easier
bolts into the block are 15mm
through bolt was 11/16" on the nut and 5/8" on the bolt head
2" body lift makes access easier
tightening the bottom bolt is a PITA, I used a 1/4" ratchet with a 1/4 to 3/8 adaptor and a 15 mm regular socket
a 15mm deep socket is too long and a regular socket was too short

Pics of the old mount;

 

[4x4x4doors]

My experience tracks with yours (i.e., the driver's side takes the brunt and BL makes life easier). I've got a few mid-length/depth 3/8 drive metrics but now don't remember where they came from. Great for that shallow vs. deep situation. Also, 1/2 inch drive tend to fall into the mid-range for length, not depth.

 

[blaz]

Well, the motor mount only lasted one wheeling trip. I took the old mount and put in a rubber bushing and welded a sleeve that I made to one side and some tabs to the other side plate. I thought about a solid mount but I think this will be better. Updates will follow. I don't know if the mounts are failing because I haven't re-geared resulting in extra torque or if the standard transmission is a little harsher because it has no torque converter or if I am just pushing the blazer too hard. Likely the third option. I think I will ease up a little and take some more back road trips and less rock crawling outings.:smiley_drive:

Factory motor mount is the black one and my handy work is the white one.

 

[chilliwak]

Looks like a fine piece of fabriacting there Blaz!

 

[blaz]

New motor mount is now installed. This one was also in two pieces. I also JB welded a small crack in the alum. Oil pan.

I am hoping that this is the problem solved and all I have to do now is wheel.

 

[chilliwak]

New motor mount is now installed. This one was also in two pieces. I also JB welded a small crack in the alum. Oil pan.

I am hoping that this is the problem solved and all I have to do now is wheel.

Good thing you got that fixed before heading out into the back country Blaz!:ylsmoke:

 

[sixlxvi]

This is definitely one of my favorite Blazers I've ever seen. Huge bonus points for it not being a ZR2. I have the exact same truck, but stock, and yours is going to be some real inspiration for mine. I've actually been lurking this forum for a few years but never had a reason to join yet, until now, because I just had to comment this thread. I realize yours isn't even heavily modified yet, but I still love it. Here's a photo of mine (not to steal the thread):

 

[blaz]

The more blazers the better. :wings: feel free to post your pics here any time.

When I bought the blazer I never thought of taking it where I do now. 33's were the biggest step and resulted in many weak links being exposed. The rear locker on the other hand was an expensive step but surprisingly resulted in the best bang for the buck.

If you have a manual trans. then you have the 8.6" ten bolt and upgrades are worthwhile. If you have the 7.625" rear end then be on the look out for a Zed rear diff. Keep me posted on your progress. And if you ever make it to the middle of Canada let me know.

 

[blaz]

I hadn't realized how many mods I had done until I parked beside a stock blazer. :Wow1:

Stock tires are 29". I have 33" = 2" over stock
Stock has no body lift. I have 2" = 2" over stock
Stock has no suspension lift. I have lift shackles, add a leaves and a T-bar crank. = 1.5-2" over stock
_________________
Total = 5.5-6" over stock

Time to get out and play!

 

[blaz]

I have a 2.5" rough country lift on order. It is taking way too long to get here. I plan on only installing the new shocks and the front lift. This will level the front to the rear and improve the CV angles slightly. I have been out exploring a couple times since I installed the new motor mount and it is holding up well. Problem today was in reverse I noticed that the other mount (passenger) is bad. I will have to build one for there too. I am loving the 33's for soaking up the rougher terrain at speed. I have to say that the rear E-locker is FAR better than the stock G80.

Now some updated pics;

And my new fav.

 

[HenryJ]

I'm not sure the Rough country 2.5" lift will live up to your expectations. IMO, your money is better spent on Timberen load boosters up front, or better yet the Fullsize bump stops.
They will lift the front a little and offer a progressive cushion. These let the S-10 front work the same way the fullsize GM trucks do.
One of the must have additions, IMO. The price is usually under $10 if you can find a truck in the local salvage yard. New under $25 from the dealer.