jscherb
Expedition Leader
For a table on the sides, instead of receiver tubes, how about these:
The table sets up quickly on a track that gets bolted to the side of the tub:
And they're not expensive.
Bolt-together fiberglass Jeep-tub trailer kit
- Thread starter jscherb
- Start date
For a table on the sides, instead of receiver tubes, how about these:
The table sets up quickly on a track that gets bolted to the side of the tub:
And they're not expensive.
jscherb
Expedition Leader
Thanks!
jscherb
Expedition Leader
Here are some more photos of another trailer being assembled, I posted a few photos of this one the other day and it's moving right along...
Full tub on the frame (no inner fenders yet in this photo):
And here it is with the inner fenders:
A closer view of an inner fender:
Full tub on the frame (no inner fenders yet in this photo):
And here it is with the inner fenders:
A closer view of an inner fender:
jscherb
Expedition Leader
Here's another kitchen idea Scott came up with for a slide-out kitchen that could be DIY-built out of plywood. It's about as long as the tub, but only takes up half of the width of the tailgate opening, so you can still use half the tub for storage. It's got a compartment for a stove, and three drawers and/or cabinets for kitchen item storage.
Part of the setup is also a removable table attached to the side of the tub, this uses the hardware I posted about yesterday.
What do you guys think of this idea?
Part of the setup is also a removable table attached to the side of the tub, this uses the hardware I posted about yesterday.
What do you guys think of this idea?
Backroad Explorer
Adventurer
jscherb this Tub Kit keeps getting better all the time!!
I'm curious will this Tub configuration ever be an option in the Kit?
I was just thinking what a good spot for a Kitchen Slide-Out in the front cutout portion.
I'm curious will this Tub configuration ever be an option in the Kit?
I was just thinking what a good spot for a Kitchen Slide-Out in the front cutout portion.
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jscherb
Expedition Leader
jscherb this Tub Kit keeps getting better all the time!!
I'm curious will this Tub configuration ever be an option in the Kit?
I was just thinking what a good spot for a Kitchen Slide-Out in the front cutout portion.
I posed that photo just to show the difference between the side panels for the "Compact" tub and the "Extended" tub, I didn't really intend that you'd assemble a trailer with that combination of parts. But since the kit parts are modular, I imagine you could get a mis-matched set of side panels like that and build trailer with a slide out in the gap, but you'd lose some structural integrity by having that gap in the tub. I'd suggest using the full-length side panels and cutting a hole in the side of one for the slide-out, leaving the top rail of the side panel and the bottom floor flange section intact to maintain structural integrity.
A while back in the "Safari Cab "Overland Camper" Trailer Build" thread (http://www.expeditionportal.com/for...i-Cab-quot-Overland-Camper-quot-Trailer-Build) I think I posted the drawing below which shows that concept. It's a drawing of the tub kit with the Safari Overland Camper top - if I get a chance I'll do a drawing showing a side slide-out in more detail, but in this drawing you can see a door that opens in the side for the slide-out to come out of; this preserves the integrity of the side panels by leaving the top rail and floor flange portions intact.
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loren85022
Explorer
JS, in post 395 you show the aux side table getting support from 2 lateral "kickstands" rather than a table leg. This To me is much preferred as it allows the trailer to be moved w/o removal. A fiberglass or alum tabletop might cut weight in half.
I'm on the fence about a kitchen taking up half the rear area. I see the side-door kitchen on an extended version being much more practicable.
I'm on the fence about a kitchen taking up half the rear area. I see the side-door kitchen on an extended version being much more practicable.
jscherb
Expedition Leader
Agreed. It would be easy to make a fiberglass tabletop, perhaps with cup holders or other recesses molded into it.
I guess it depends on how large a trailer you want. The only "slide out" type kitchen option that would be possible for the Compact trailer would be out the tailgate, but since the Extended trailer is about 2' longer, a slide out of the side can be done, here's a drawing. This is the same kitchen I drew the other day for the Compact tub, but in that case it slid out of the tailgate opening, here it slides out of a door in the side:
loren85022
Explorer
the above would be my perfect layout. I'd prefer it with an elevated RTT rack with open mid-area for possible storage of folding chairs, awning poles, etc that could be exposed during travel. Just to add a wrinkle, it would also be slick if the kitchen could be removed to increase capacity when not in camping mode.
jscherb
Expedition Leader
I've worked out a few designs for mounting a rack above the tub like you've drawn, and the one I like best mounts to the outside of the tub. With the mounts on the outside it is still possible to use either the soft tonneau cover or a hard tonneau cover to protect the gear inside.
That's probably a function of the slides that would be used under the kitchen - some slides make it easy to remove the drawer that's mounted on them, but worst case it would just be a few bolts to undo to remove the slide altogether.
loren85022
Explorer
I agree, outside rackis optimal. Perhaps down to the nerf-bars at corners. This adds some hard points for aux tables, awnings, etc..
jscherb
Expedition Leader
In keeping with the budget theme of this project, I've been thinking about an economical way to DIY-build a 3-axis off-road coupler. I built the HF trailer frame with a receiver on the tongue so it would be possible to easily swap couplers, and ever since then I've been working on a 3-axis design in the background.
The 3-axis couplers that are commercially available are in the $200 range. Kilby's Max Coupler is a particularly nice one, it sells for $225. Another high-angle option would be a pintle/lunette eye combination, according to Tractor Supply prices for that setup would run about $125.
My first goal for a DIY-design was that the cost of the parts should be less than $50. That doesn't include a receiver ball mount to go into the vehicle reciever, or a receiver tube to mount on the front of the trailer. Neither of those are included in the $225 price of the Kilby coupler, so I figure it's fair not to include them in the price goal.
My second goal was that all of the parts should be easily obtainable, and no fabrication work should be required that couldn't be accomplished with a drill, a hacksaw, an angle grinder and a welder.
I'm calling the design I've come up with the "TSC" 3-Axis Coupler, because pretty much all of the parts can be gotten off-the-shelf at Tractor Supply. Most of the parts are in their "3 Point Hitch Parts" section of parts for farm tractor implement hitches. I figure if these parts are strong enough to drag plows through fields, they should be able to haul our 2000-lb. or less trailers along the trail.
All of the TSC parts can be purchased for less than $40, which leaves $10 to find a roughly 4" long scrap of 2 1/2" square x 1/4" wall tubing and about 8" of 2" square x 1/4" wall tubing.
Here's a drawing showing the basic idea:
Some fabrication experience would be very for this project because of the cutting and modification of some of the TSC parts, and competent welding skills will obviously be required for safety.
I plan to build one of these to test, but I won't be able to get to it for about two weeks because of some other commitments and work on another project that I want to get done first.
The 3-axis couplers that are commercially available are in the $200 range. Kilby's Max Coupler is a particularly nice one, it sells for $225. Another high-angle option would be a pintle/lunette eye combination, according to Tractor Supply prices for that setup would run about $125.
My first goal for a DIY-design was that the cost of the parts should be less than $50. That doesn't include a receiver ball mount to go into the vehicle reciever, or a receiver tube to mount on the front of the trailer. Neither of those are included in the $225 price of the Kilby coupler, so I figure it's fair not to include them in the price goal.
My second goal was that all of the parts should be easily obtainable, and no fabrication work should be required that couldn't be accomplished with a drill, a hacksaw, an angle grinder and a welder.
I'm calling the design I've come up with the "TSC" 3-Axis Coupler, because pretty much all of the parts can be gotten off-the-shelf at Tractor Supply. Most of the parts are in their "3 Point Hitch Parts" section of parts for farm tractor implement hitches. I figure if these parts are strong enough to drag plows through fields, they should be able to haul our 2000-lb. or less trailers along the trail
.All of the TSC parts can be purchased for less than $40, which leaves $10 to find a roughly 4" long scrap of 2 1/2" square x 1/4" wall tubing and about 8" of 2" square x 1/4" wall tubing.
Here's a drawing showing the basic idea:
Some fabrication experience would be very for this project because of the cutting and modification of some of the TSC parts, and competent welding skills will obviously be required for safety.
I plan to build one of these to test, but I won't be able to get to it for about two weeks because of some other commitments and work on another project that I want to get done first.
loren85022
Explorer
A new 3axis would be welcome. One practical improvement that I'd be looking for is it's ease of connection. Mine is fine when everything is on level a surface. But you really struggle on a trail because the alignment must be precise.