Boomer the Quadravan 4x4 Camper

New River KTM

Observer
The track bar and new steering setup looks great. My Quadravan already had the single track bar but the new steering rods look to be the bomb. Going to give it a try I think. Got some new shoes and don't want the poor steering to grind them to dust.
 

spencyg

This Space For Rent
Thanks folks....

Rockbender.....I'll look into Agile Off Road's offerings. The correct path forward here is a custom valved solution, and to have somebody do it who knows van dynamics would be preferable. Thanks for the tip.

Mtnbike28....awesome pics! Thanks for sharing. We're hitting all the sites you mentioned plus some :)

I was at it again last night but didn't have time this morning to download pics off the camera. As my energy is nearing its critical point I'm finding myself becoming less and less effective with the time I have available. I had quite a few items I wanted to strike off the punch list last night and got to all but 1 which was annoying. I did re-mount my house bank mega fuse holder to a better location before re-installing the new starter batteries. I also finished up wiring in the rear box so now I've got plate lights, and a 3rd running light / brake light. Of course I give myself X amount of time for each of these jobs for the sake of time estimation, and last night I went over on the box wiring by 100%. Not OK.

Propane install tonight along with cleaning up some interior bits and pieces. Packing and departure in the morning.

SG
 

Tyrant 66

Adventurer
Just found your thread! Have a hella good trip. Can't wait to hear about it, it's one of the trips I want to make also so I'm looking forward to hear how it goes. Enjoy
 

spencyg

This Space For Rent
Some pics of the last of the preparations for the trip.

I dug into the rear brakes to swap out the slave cylinders as well as replace the springs. I didn't see a need to replace the shoes as they still had over 1/4" of wear material left.





The wheel bearings and associated seals all looked good so I threw it back together and torqued the bearing pre-load to "just right".

Then it was time to crawl around in the dirt with the creepy crawlies to swap out the rear brake hose and bleed and adjust the rear brakes.



Then it was time to move up front to install the new starter batteries and re-mount the MEGA fuse holder for the house bank. The previous fuse install wasn't clean and I didn't want issues with 450AH of batteries arcing on a frame.





Then back to the rear of the van to wire up the box for running and brake lights. I opted to wire through a terminal strip since I may want to remove the box from the bumper in the future for maintenance, mods, etc.









Silicone wire for the in-box wiring is extremely flexible in all temperature extremes. Great for this application. Anywhere I suspected chafe or damage may occur I wrapped the wire in spiral wrap. That stuff is awesome and should be used anywhere you want to protect wire or group multiple wires into a single bundle.

The end result.



Strangely, the 3rd brake light blinks when either blinker is running in addition to its' 3rd brake and running light functions. I ended up liking this since it brings extra attention to the traffic behind you.

Then onto the propane line. The hoses running down the rear of the box were wrapped in plastic shielding and triple wrapped anywhere it passed chafe edges. The line then connected to a hard point at the frame which was connected to the "house" manifold with well-anchored copper tubing. The copper flared fittings at each end of the line really really tested my patience...I hate flare fittings. In the end I won, but it was a good fight.



The quick disconnect manifold at the tank. Full pressure to the quick disconnect and regulated pressure at the house manifold line.


The mount for the grille was a bit of an iterative process. The end result locks the grill to 1 of 3 angles.







Of course, the stock arm length was too short so I had to cut everything up after I mounted the base to the box and add an extension. I'll probably modify the grille end of the mount later to allow it to break down further for transport.

It was then time to pack for our Acadian adventure...

SG
 

spencyg

This Space For Rent
Great question Jack.

The unregulated port is for running appliances that normally run on the small 1lb propane bottles. I have a 6' adapter hose with an end identical to those small "Coleman" type bottles. This allows me to run things like my grille off the primary propane system instead of needing to carry additional propane bottles.

SG
 

spencyg

This Space For Rent
So the big adventure to Nova Scotia was an eye opener in a number of ways. From a family and travel standpoint I think we have fallen in love with Boomer even more. The size of the rig is ideal for a family of 4 who wants to be able to really explore. I didn't feel limited by our size at all for the kind of excursions we wanted to participate in. I'm not a "4-wheeler" and Boomer wouldn't be able to wind its way through a dense forest trail, but off-highway adventures are par for the course and we are sprouting with ideas for "where next". Alternatively, I'm not sure I would go with a rig much bigger. Would I like more interior space? Of course I would, but the limitations both in height as well as turning radius, overhangs, breakover angle, and overall length would really limit our ability to go where we want to go. We are going to address some living space annoyances in the coming months.

From a gear standpoint, Boomer did very well. All of the modifications performed flawlessly. The new steering and suspension setup was magnificent and really made the driving a pleasure. No bumpsteer, control over all sorts of different road conditions. A pleasure.

The swing outs didn't fall off. What more can I say? The rear box was superb for isolating the grimier stuff which one must carry on an adventure like this from daily life. It was easy to access and quick to get out of the way. Additionally, the box basket was a great place to throw stuff (like my stinky flip-flops which were forbidden from the van on day 2).

The convenience of the propane bottle being mounted and connected 100% of the time can't be overstated. We shut the valve off each morning before departure, but at camp the first thing I did was pop open the propane so the stove could be used whenever necessary. We did have an issue with the quick disconnect fitting leaking like crazy, but after we returned I realized it was my own fault, as I had ordered a low pressure disconnect rated to only 0.5 PSIG. On the road, I removed the quick disconnect entirely and capped it. We used a disposable propane bottle for the grille from that point on which ended up being a good thing since we were low on propane in the primary bottle anyway.

In the trip report many of you will notice some stuff lashed to the roof. To give us as much space inside as possible for storage of bags and sleeping gear, I opted to throw the camp chairs, camp table, and our Kelty kid carrier up on the roof. Given the rain we endured, everything was placed in contractor garbage bags first with the bags being lashed with bungee cords. The 3 "packages" were then lashed to the roof with a pair of ratchet straps fastened to the questionable roof rail. The whole setup lasted the trip but the bags were useless after day 3. Full of holes. We recognized the value of good waterproof roof storage and will improve upon our "system" next year.

Another exterior item which we both love and feel the need to improve upon is our awning. The old Fiamma unit is tired, and the canvas is badly stretched. The framework and reeling mechanism are in good shape, but I see an upgrade in the near future. The current awning is a 10ft unit with a coverage distance of 7 ft. During inclement weather it is so nice to still keep the doors open and be able to "live" under the awning. Fiamma has an nice F45 line which would allow us to go up to 13' of length which I can just barely squeeze in, and it would have almost 9ft of coverage. In addition, Fiamma sells sidewall kits for their newest models which would literally double our living space. This upgrade will happen within the next year.

Interior storage solutions are tricky for all of us. Before the trip my wife was concerned about where food would be stored as well as all the stuff to keep the kids entertained. There was no time for me to get creative, or really for me to do ANYTHING about it. She being she, initiative is never a problem. A quick trip to the store and my wife had three decent sized stackable totes. Behind the second row driver seat there is a space for 2 of these totes to be stacked and still allow plenty of isle space for passage as well as opening the refrigerator door. She loaded the tote at the floor level with heavy items, and the tote stacked on that with light items. Between the back of the driver seat and the front of the second row seat, she was able to squeeze the 3rd tote. With the kids being small, the need for a footwell is something we can "worry about later". The rest of the daily life items were able to be stored in the more traditional cubby locations around Boomer. This solution ended up being great until the contents of the totes began to be consumed. Only after they started to lighten up did we get a few instances of toppling when rounding a bumpy sharp corner.

Communication ended up being a bit of a challenge on this trip. We couldn't use our phones in Canada (at least, we thought we couldn't), and getting a SIM card that isn't tied to local calls only while at the same time not requiring a contract of some sort proved nearly impossible. When you read on the web, so many people talk about just getting a local SIM card when traveling internationally. A couple things about this. #1 is that the handset you bring along MUST BE UNLOCKED!!!! We brought an AT&T GSM handset and it was worth its weight in bat guano. Further, to use the handset with a Canada-wide SIM card would have required a credit check, setting up a plan, and so on. This was way more of a hassle then I was prepared to go through so we ended up dropping the idea of a cell phone entirely. Upon my return I discovered that for a nominal fee (certainly less than buying a burner phone with only a local calling radius) I could have added an international feature to the plans on one of our phones which would have allowed calling and light data use. We would do this next time. Something to consider about cell phones is that they probably won't work in rural areas anyway. We have a CB on board as well as a few TalkAbout handsets for trail and campsite communication. I think I finally acknowledge the value of a HAM radio and I will be acquiring one (along with the technician license) this year. The ability to reach out when you're in trouble is paramount, especially when traveling with a young family. There were a couple instances where I felt overly vulnerable not having a way to get roadside help and I want to avoid this as much as possible in the future.

While on the topic of electronics, the ability to get a WiFi signal ended up being a challenge. Boomer's all-steel construction acted as a magnificent WiFi signal shield. The CF-19 Toughbook with its internal WiFi card was nearly useless unless we were within maybe 75 ft of the WiFi source. My wife's MacBook did far better, but she was still limited to around 150ft from the WiFi source. Since an internet connection on the road isn't going to be "convenient" most of the time, I want to do something about our ability to get a signal from a far-off router.

Lastly, the drivetrain. Boomer is equipped with an antiquated International 6.9L indirect injection normally aspirated (non-turbo) diesel and a C6 3 speed non-lockup automatic transmission. We had issues with both of these pieces of equipment during the trip.

The transmission was overfilled when we started off which is clearly "operator error". However, even after correcting this condition on the road I still had transmission temperature concerns. A few years back when towing a trailer home, Boomer's transmission overheated. I didn't have a transmission cooler installed at the time so while on the road I installed the largest fin tube model I could find locally which happened to be an 18k GVW capacity unit. I haven't ever had a temperature gauge for the transmission, so for this trip I finally installed one. You know what they say about gauges....if you have one it just gives you something else to worry about. Below 45 MPH, the temp (exit fluid temp entering the cooler circuit) holds around 180-190 which I consider acceptable. At level highway speeds of 60-65 MPH, the transmission hovers around 200-210. At highway speed going up any sort of grade we're immediately up in the 220-230 deg range. I never saw the transmission get over 235, but I still don't like running that hot. This needs to be addressed ASAP.

The engine on the other hand stayed cool the whole trip which, given all the other stuff going on, was not lost on me. I appreciated not having to worry about that on top of all the other things. The engine however was not without its own problems. After a series of very rough pavement in New Brunswick I started getting a lot of strange surging while underway. After lots of false diagnosis, the culprit ended up being a faulty stock (and original to the truck) water/fuel separator. I temporarily fixed the issue (on the last day, of course) by short circuiting the separator with a length of fuel hose. Running without this device for any amount of time isn't an option, so a replacement needs to be found and installed. Preferably something more industrial with a better reputation than the one which has failed me. While I'm at it, the fuel gauge for the forward tank isn't working, and neither gauge has ever read the correct fuel level. I also don't believe the pickups in the tanks are in good shape as I'm not able to draw 100% of the fuel from the tanks before I start sucking air (both tanks leave around 2 gallons behind). So I need to drop the tanks, fix the level sensors and either fix or modify the pickups so I can utilize 100% of my fuel capacity.

SG
 
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Mwilliamshs

Explorer
If your transmission temp gauge sending unit is inline with the factory cooler line outlet (which is how I understood things, but not certain) then those temperatures look perfect to me, very good in fact considering your rolling-load. If that sending unit is in a test port or the pan they're high but not catastrophic. I tend toward long posts so if you'll tell me where your sender is I'll only elaborate on the appropriate scenario.

The sending units and fuel pickups in the tanks is a known weak point on Ford diesels for a bunch of years, especially the IDI's. New sending units are available from parts houses but cleaning is often successful. The plastic pickup tubes often break and thus become shorter, limiting the fuel tanks' usable capacities. They can be lengthened with diesel/gasohol rated fuel hose and brass or other suitable Tee fittings at the bottom to prevent the hose from sucking itself flush to the tanks bottom. Been there, done that. It's a pain till ya figure out what's wrong then it's a cheap and easy fix, especially on a pickup where you pull the bed instead of dropping the tanks. The separator/filter is also a known weakpoint on the 6.9s and 7.3 IDI (i.e. not powerstroke) parts are cheap and easy upgrades but the Racor 445R is an even better upgrade as it adds a hand-priming pump and petcock to drain off water and the Racor is in the $250 ballpark with fittings. Incidentally, if you ever have glowplug issues, the 7.3 IDI parts are cheap and easy upgrades there too.
 
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spencyg

This Space For Rent
OK...the temperature sensor is on the transmission output line right before it enters the factory cooler in the radiator.



The circuit first goes into the stock radaitor, then the output of that goes into my 18k gvw (7.5" x 9.5") FTR secondary cooler. The temperature I'm getting is after the fluid has passed through approx. 5ft of aluminum uninsulated tubing, so the transmission as actually a few degrees warmer. I've ordered a 22k GVW cooler which will swap easily with my current unit. The new one is 7.5" x 12.5" with the same connection dimensions.

As for the tanks....I've got pretty good access to the strap bolts and they aren't in bad shape so I should be ok to drop. I'm hoping I can just clean up the contacts as necessary to get everything working and maybe new floats? I've got a Racor 230RM30 unit coming. It is 30GPH which should be more than adequate and comes with a 30 micron filter which will be good for pre-filtering before the primary mounted on the engine. I believe it has both a priming pump as well as a drain petcock.

When I did all the engine work a couple years back I replaced all of the glow plugs with the correct Motorcraft units....hopefully I won't have to think about any of that for a good long time.

SG
 
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spencyg

This Space For Rent
Thanks Mat. I actually read your build a while back and show equal admiration for your rig. Good stuff.

SG
 

Mwilliamshs

Explorer
LONG VERSION: The C6 trans fluid output to the cooler is directly at the output of the torque converter, same place (approximately, give or take a couple feet of line) as your gauge's pickup as pictured. That means it's THE hottest possible part of the transmission. The old rule of transmission fluid burning @ ~200F is long dead. Powertrain Engineers specializing in automatic transmissions at Ford corroborate this. Old (the C6 was introduced in 1966) fluid and old clutch/seal/band materials (the cause for the "200 rule") were far inferior to anything made since the late 70s and things have improved drastically and continually since then. Consider the lifespans of transmissions. Original C6's in towing or work applications were often rebuilt at roughly 50k mi (according to my old-time transmission friend in logging country) and now a good (not max-effort modified or super spendy blueprint job, just a Jasper) rebuild comes with a 100k mi warranty! With modern fluid and original ~1983-or-newer parts (some o-rings and such got updated to viton/teflon/etc with the introduction of the IDI in 1983 and the improved parts got installed in all C6's, not just the diesel applications) the maximum acceptable short-term temperature for the transmission output on the C6 is ~300F. That's the HOT point on the gauge. Fluid at this point in the cycle is as absolutely hot as it will get, much hotter leaving the torque converter than anywhere else in the transmission. It's been pulled from the sump, through the filter, pushed through the valvebody, over the gears and clutches and band and through the pump then the torque converter and has picked up every bit of heat it could along the way. The fluid is fully heated at this point and will only get cooler. This doesn't mean 300F at the output is okay, it simply means 300F on the gauge doesn't spell instant death. If you're pulling a hill and see the needle approaching 300F on a known-accurate gauge you should do what it takes to reduce that temperature. I'd start making corrective steps (not panicking, just correcting) if I saw a steady rise at 280F to make sure I never passed 300F unless it were unavoidable. On a grade, under load, it's possible to get in over your head at the midway point so it pays to know your rig before going for broke on a trip. Think of this 300 number as 210 on your engine temp, (your thermostat should be 192F btw). When you get in this neighborhood in gaugeville you don't pull over and shut it off (that would actually be much worse) but instead you downshift (more revs = more cooling), let-up on the pedal, reduce the rolling load, turn off the AC (reduce thermal load), slow down, get more room between you and the BMW you've been chasing up the mountain (more free air into the grille), etc. The maximum acceptable longterm temperature at this point is closer to 260F but lower is better, until you get about 150F, at which point the fluid is too cold to lube or clean well. The more important thing is the fluid going INTO the pan being AT LEAST 150F to allow proper viscosity and adequate lubricity and that fluid coming out is no hotter than 300F. Fluid too cold is just as bad as too hot. This is one reason for the transmission line running into the radiator: to ensure adequate fluid temperature in cold weather by heating it with the engine. Another reason for the transmission fluid passing through the radiator is that liquid-to-liquid (trans fluid to engine coolant in this case) is a far better heat conductor than liquid-to-air and thus cools the transmission fluid much faster than an auxiliary transmission cooler. Think of when you cut a piece of steel with a torch, do you cool it faster by blowing on it, or by dunking it in water? Definitely the water pail. Why then do we not just have massive liquid-to-liquid coolers? The engine's cooling system can absorb some heat from the transmission (hot always moves to cold) but not all of it (300 is a whole lot more than 200 and an engine at 250 is way worse off than a transmission at 250)and it would take a MASSIVE resevoir to dissipate all the heat of the engine and transmission combined so we have liquid-to-liquid coolers for large temp drops and liquid-to-air to make up the difference. In this way we're using all the air in the world as our resevoir and while global-warming may be real, it ain't gonna matter in my lifetime and I'm only 30.
.

SUMMARY: Think of the transmission as a fluid heater. It takes in fluid cool and pumps it out hot. That fluid has a minimum working temperature and a maximum working temperature. Fluid too hot or too cold isn't working to lubricate and clean the transmission. Anything in between those two points is acceptable. A temp sending unit at the pan's input (or cooler(s) output) should always read above 150 except at cold startup and one at the case's output should always read below 300 (if input is >150 than output can't possibly be <150). If you see below 150 know that any unnecesary load is not being properly lubricated and if over 300, the same is true. The cooling capacity should be such that fluid pumped out at upto 300 should be cooled sufficiently to prevent being pumped out again at over 300, period. It is entirely possible to overcool the fluid. I've adopted the system of 2 sending units connect to a single gauge through a switch, labled hot and cold. The hot reading is useful 99% of the time but the cold reading is useful if the hot sender gets out of whack (compare the two periodically and you get an idea of your cooling system's efficiency and overall condition) or when tugging loads in cold temperatures. I spec'd C6's behind 300 I6's for Siberian mining test equipment in a past (interesting) career so believe me, I've seen damage done by working a machine hard before it's warmed-up. You can drive with a transmission below 150 but I'd never aggressively pull a load near capacity under those conditions anymore than I'd redline a cold engine.
 
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spencyg

This Space For Rent
Good Stuff Mwilliamshs. All information I was aware of but it is good to hear it from other sources as confirmation. Since I keep Boomer off the roads (for the most part) in the winter time due to corrosion ramifications, overcooling isn't something I'm terribly concerned with. You can always block off a portion of a FTR cooler.....hard to add more. The idea of a switched pair of sending units is interesting....

One tidbit I forgot to mention is that when we were spending so much time popping the hood to purge the filter head it became obvious that under-hood temperatures were a problem. If the transmission was hot (over 220) when we stopped and diDn't pop the hood right away, it would take maybe 5 minutes for the temperature to come down to 160 (typical post-driving idle temp). If I popped the hood immediately, the transmission temperature would drop in half the time or better. The fan clutch is working correctly, and would cycle the fan on during the idling period. I've ordered a couple 9x5 stainless louvers which I will install in the hood to help get rid of boxed in heat. Everything I've read suggests all these vans benefit from this modification.

SG
 
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