Box Rocket
Well-known member
personally I'm glad I didn't go any lighter than 16ga. It would dent far too easily IMO.
Box Rocket Homemade trailer build.
- Thread starter Box Rocket
- Start date
Great build! Turned out awesome! Good to know about the plate requirement in Utah, the Wife and I are seriously considering moving up to Utah. I used 18GA on my build, but I drilled and plug welded the sheet metal to the cross members and the floor is covered in a sheet of 3/16" black HDPE so denting the tub floor is unlikely. How do you like the Lock 'N Roll so far? Any complaints?
Box Rocket
Well-known member
No complaints with the Lock-n-Roll. I know there are some issues that can happen when reversing uphill and the coupler can bind. I haven't had any of those issues up til now. If I do, it will get replaced with a Max-Coupler.
Nonprophet
Observer
Hey Adam,
Thanks so much for taking the time to put this very informative thread together! I'd like to build my own one day, but in the meantime I used your specs/layout to source a good used trailer. It's very similar to yours--I'll have to check the exact dimensions to be sure. He put a nice lid on it with lifting struts/rams, and he built a nice frame for the RTT. He also built his with the hinge at the front. I'll take some pics and post them in the next few days.....
One question I did have for you, other than appearances, why go with full-sized offroad tires instead of quality trailer tires? The guy I got the trailer from just put a brand new set of 4 Bridgestone KO's on it--two on the trailer, one spare, and one extra. Those tires must have cost about $600, as opposed to top quality trailer tires and rims for maybe $100 ea......So when you're towing the trailer obviously the trailer tires aren't powered--so why have aggressive, off-road tires on the trailer other than looks and I suppose the redundancy of having the same tires on your trailer as are on your rig. Am I missing anything else? I'm towing with either my FJ80 or my RAV4, so I'd like the trailer to be a little lower than it is now to sit more level.....
Thanks!
NP
Thanks so much for taking the time to put this very informative thread together! I'd like to build my own one day, but in the meantime I used your specs/layout to source a good used trailer. It's very similar to yours--I'll have to check the exact dimensions to be sure. He put a nice lid on it with lifting struts/rams, and he built a nice frame for the RTT. He also built his with the hinge at the front. I'll take some pics and post them in the next few days.....
One question I did have for you, other than appearances, why go with full-sized offroad tires instead of quality trailer tires? The guy I got the trailer from just put a brand new set of 4 Bridgestone KO's on it--two on the trailer, one spare, and one extra. Those tires must have cost about $600, as opposed to top quality trailer tires and rims for maybe $100 ea......So when you're towing the trailer obviously the trailer tires aren't powered--so why have aggressive, off-road tires on the trailer other than looks and I suppose the redundancy of having the same tires on your trailer as are on your rig. Am I missing anything else? I'm towing with either my FJ80 or my RAV4, so I'd like the trailer to be a little lower than it is now to sit more level.....
Thanks!
NP
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BADDANDY
Adventurer
The reason I have Mud Terrain tires on mine are for offroad strength against rocks and anything else that wants to take a bite out of them. This way I can concentrate on what's happening ahead of me and not what's happening behind me. The bigger the offroad tire usually increases the sidewall rating also.
Box Rocket
Well-known member
Most of the reasons have already been mentioned, but for me tire choice is for a few reasons:
1) to have a tire tough enough to handle the terrain. Travelling fast (60+mph) down a rough rocky road is no big deal for an off-road tire especially when it's not carrying nearly the same load as a truck. A trailer tire or other passenger car type tire would be far more susceptible to punctures in those conditions. Also on the more technical trails the same principle applies when there is risk for sidewall punctures in difficult rockcrawling type trails. Off-road tires have more durable sidewalls.
2) Have tires that can be used on the tow vehicle in a pinch is nice. Usually you won't find yourself in the situation where you need to canabalize tires from the trailer. But the first time you are in that situation, you'll kick yourself when you have to walk out because your tow vehicle is disabled, and you could have avoided that by having tires on the trailer that will fit the truck.
3) For me it helped get the trailer to the correct ride height. You could build a trailer at the correct height using trailer tires, but I went the other direction.
4) Poor man's suspension. The off-road tires on my trailer are designed for much heavier load than I ever have in my trailer. And since my budget trailer uses standard 3500# trailer springs, the suspension doesn't move a lot on it's own. I generally run the tires on trailer at 10-12psi. It has proven to be more than adequate for the load of the trailer and I've never noticed the tires getting hot from underinflation. And with the stiff springs, the low air pressure helps smooth out the bumps. Remember that comment about 60+mph down rough roads? Yeah, ask me how that works with 25-35psi in the trailer tires.
That speed over rough roads at 10psi is surprisingly nice. A more sophisticated suspension would be more ideal, but not everyone can afford that. I couldn't and preferred the simplicity of the leaf springs over air bags and trailing arms with more components to fail.
5) Looks. Hard to deny that the trailer looks cool with big off-road tires. I'm vain, so sue me.
1) to have a tire tough enough to handle the terrain. Travelling fast (60+mph) down a rough rocky road is no big deal for an off-road tire especially when it's not carrying nearly the same load as a truck. A trailer tire or other passenger car type tire would be far more susceptible to punctures in those conditions. Also on the more technical trails the same principle applies when there is risk for sidewall punctures in difficult rockcrawling type trails. Off-road tires have more durable sidewalls.
2) Have tires that can be used on the tow vehicle in a pinch is nice. Usually you won't find yourself in the situation where you need to canabalize tires from the trailer. But the first time you are in that situation, you'll kick yourself when you have to walk out because your tow vehicle is disabled, and you could have avoided that by having tires on the trailer that will fit the truck.
3) For me it helped get the trailer to the correct ride height. You could build a trailer at the correct height using trailer tires, but I went the other direction.
4) Poor man's suspension. The off-road tires on my trailer are designed for much heavier load than I ever have in my trailer. And since my budget trailer uses standard 3500# trailer springs, the suspension doesn't move a lot on it's own. I generally run the tires on trailer at 10-12psi. It has proven to be more than adequate for the load of the trailer and I've never noticed the tires getting hot from underinflation. And with the stiff springs, the low air pressure helps smooth out the bumps. Remember that comment about 60+mph down rough roads? Yeah, ask me how that works with 25-35psi in the trailer tires.
That speed over rough roads at 10psi is surprisingly nice. A more sophisticated suspension would be more ideal, but not everyone can afford that. I couldn't and preferred the simplicity of the leaf springs over air bags and trailing arms with more components to fail.5) Looks. Hard to deny that the trailer looks cool with big off-road tires. I'm vain, so sue me.
Box Rocket
Well-known member
Few updates. Picked up a Tepui Autana w/ annex. Got it mounted on the trailer last night. This pic shows the rear steps that are in the works. I'm building a telescoping rack for the tent that will raise the base of the tent up to 74" when I use the annex. The steps will be a base for the lower section of the rack.
This shows the front step. I have had the cans bolted to the front of the trailer in the past but I wanted a little more room between the truck and trailer so I moved the cans to the sides and moved my tongue box/cooler back toward the trailer box a bit more. I just welded to can bucket to the step. I don't really see a need to take them off so welding was fine. If they do need to come off I can cut them easy enough. The steps still need to be capped where the corners were cut. They'll be coated with bedliner when they're done.
This shows the front step. I have had the cans bolted to the front of the trailer in the past but I wanted a little more room between the truck and trailer so I moved the cans to the sides and moved my tongue box/cooler back toward the trailer box a bit more. I just welded to can bucket to the step. I don't really see a need to take them off so welding was fine. If they do need to come off I can cut them easy enough. The steps still need to be capped where the corners were cut. They'll be coated with bedliner when they're done.
Titanpat57
Expedition Leader
Big jump for you guys...the changing room is an awesome (and welcomed) addition....enjoy!
Box Rocket
Well-known member
New telescoping tent platform is built. Waiting for the gas struts to arrive today so I can finish it up and get it painted. New swingout tire carrier across the back is built and waiting for paint. I need to cap the ends of a few peices of tubing and get some paint on it and theis round of mods is complete. Hoping to finish that up tonight and get some pics.
Box Rocket
Well-known member
new round of mods are complete
'90s era Factory Alloys (painted black)
33x10.50 KM2s (takeoffs from the Tacoma)
New Tepui Autana RTT with Annex
modified side steps on the trailer
relocated water cans from front of trailer to the sides
custom telescoping rack for the RTT
custom spare tire swingout
Ok here we go with pics.
Here's the trailer with all the listed mods. This is in "transit" mode with the RTT rack on the low setting.
few shots with the truck.
Spare tire swingout details. Latch is a simple high visibility hitch pin. Works great and is tight
Rubber bumpers attached to the swingout to keep it tight against the tailgate.
Hinges are geasable hinges I got from Northern Tool. They are a simple bolt design with no bearings. They swing nice and smooth.
'90s era Factory Alloys (painted black)
33x10.50 KM2s (takeoffs from the Tacoma)
New Tepui Autana RTT with Annex
modified side steps on the trailer
relocated water cans from front of trailer to the sides
custom telescoping rack for the RTT
custom spare tire swingout
Ok here we go with pics.
Here's the trailer with all the listed mods. This is in "transit" mode with the RTT rack on the low setting.
few shots with the truck.
Spare tire swingout details. Latch is a simple high visibility hitch pin. Works great and is tight
Rubber bumpers attached to the swingout to keep it tight against the tailgate.
Hinges are geasable hinges I got from Northern Tool. They are a simple bolt design with no bearings. They swing nice and smooth.
Box Rocket
Well-known member
Now to the tent rack.
The rack is made from 1.5" square tubes welded to the side of the trailer tub and the rack itself is 1x2" square tube for the platform and 1.25" square tube for the legs that slide down inside the 1.5" tubes on the tub.
Each post has a spring loaded "pop pin" to keep it locked in either the low or high setting. Each corner has a 50lb gas strut to raise the tent.
Zinc coated handles on the sides of the platform (actually just some cut down ubolts) to help pull the rack back down to the low setting.
Pull the 4 pop pins (1 on each corner) and the platform goes up to the height needed to use the annex with the RTT.
Some quick pics of the tent set up with the annex. It was getting dark so I didn't open up all the windows etc.
All done. Can't wait to get out and use it!
The rack is made from 1.5" square tubes welded to the side of the trailer tub and the rack itself is 1x2" square tube for the platform and 1.25" square tube for the legs that slide down inside the 1.5" tubes on the tub.
Each post has a spring loaded "pop pin" to keep it locked in either the low or high setting. Each corner has a 50lb gas strut to raise the tent.
Zinc coated handles on the sides of the platform (actually just some cut down ubolts) to help pull the rack back down to the low setting.
Pull the 4 pop pins (1 on each corner) and the platform goes up to the height needed to use the annex with the RTT.
Some quick pics of the tent set up with the annex. It was getting dark so I didn't open up all the windows etc.
All done. Can't wait to get out and use it!
Mark Harley
Expedition Leader
Great work.
I like the swing out tire rack, I have been thinking of doing one on my 101a2 and this fits the need.
I like the swing out tire rack, I have been thinking of doing one on my 101a2 and this fits the need.
Box Rocket
Well-known member
The rack itself doesn't wobble at all. I can grab the rack and yank it around and it doesn't move. The whole trailer will move if you pull hard enough but that would happen even with it mounted lower. Most of the time the trailer will be hooked to the truck when we're in the tent and its very stable that way. If I were sleeping in the tent with the trailer unhooked, I would definitely want some rear stablizers. I'll be building some in the next few weeks just in case, but as I said, most of the time it will be hooked to the truck.