Bringing Sexy Back. AKA 93' LWB RRC

Finally figured out my death wobble issue. The panhard bar bushings are dead. I just ordered new polybushings. Should be here in a few days.

The ones that are in there now were new two years ago. It hasn't even been driven 1000 miles since then. Somehow the originals lasted 192K miles without being replaced.
 
Things are nearly done.

Redid the Panhard bushings with new poly bushings.

The old ones were a bit knackered.

Drilled them around the rubber first. Then knocked out the metal bushing with a punch.

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Pressed the new ones in with my vise. Done.

Do the other side exactly the same. Then reinstall.

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Then started the next project. I need to clearance the pan a little and I’m going to armor it as well.

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Since you have the skillsets to do it and the RRC is pretty much a direct trail rig, you should build your own high angle steering arms. Ballistic Fab will have everything you need with high angle bearings, inserts, etc.

Obviously, your way is the cheaper option just saying that you have the know-how to build a bullet-proof steering system.
 
Since you have the skillsets to do it and the RRC is pretty much a direct trail rig, you should build your own high angle steering arms. Ballistic Fab will have everything you need with high angle bearings, inserts, etc.

Obviously, your way is the cheaper option just saying that you have the know-how to build a bullet-proof steering system.

I built a complete system for my 1985 Toyota Pickup using Heim joints. It was a pain, they rust, they make noise, and they do break. I only had 33" tires on my Yota, and pulling out of a parking lot my steering rod broke. It was luckily close to home. I've had tubular control arms on the front of my old Jeep Commander. They failed, they made noise, they rusted and were annoying.

I think the Land Rover steering is pretty damn good for what it is. Mind you mine HAD close to 200K miles on the clock. I just replaced the whole steering system with Terrafirma stuff, and relocated the steering dampner out from under the axle and up near the frame.

I guess I'll see how the steering parts do with 33" tall tires. I don't see any other guys running a 33x12.5x15, so I don't have much to go off. But with the power my engine is producing I don't even notice the extra tire. I just have the boost set to 5 psi right now. It'll be going up to 10 psi pretty soon.
 
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Ok, some updates, this time of year is busy, busy, busy

I got the following all done, oil pan installed, front driveshaft installed.

I just need to put the dash back together, and then take the thing down to a local transmission shop to have the Reverse looked at, ever since the valve body swap, my reverse isn't working. I don't want to pull it back apart. Once was good enough.

I also ordered an adjustable front panhard bar for it, since I've lifted it close to 4 inches, the axle is pulled more to the drivers-side, and it needs to go a bit to the right. I'll home brew one for the back once I get around to it.
 
Been playing with this one since since mine is dead anyway. This is one my buddy and I imported. We have 3 more on the way.

Been rebuilding the doors, and I have one little hole to patch on the driveside floor.

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I am building one with 6.5 side mount turbo and NV4500 manual transmission.
Nice! Are you doing another thread? Why the manual transmission? I thought you said you didn't like the manual you put in your last one. I am doing a 6.2 j-code with a GM 6L80E. Just need to heal up first.
 

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