Broken Ashcroft HD axles or CVs? Who's done it?

[cooter]

Nope, Salisbury fronts were used on both Series Rovers and Defenders. Not real common, but some had them.
Series 3 1 Tons all had them
Salisbury front RH Stg - FRC3398
Salisbury front LH Stg - 59441

I guess I should be a little more clear. It is only common to fit a Sal's to the rear. Putting a Sals in the front is neither cost justifiable or an upgrade.

There are at least three variations of the front Sal's axles; coil, leaf, and the 101. There is one more Sal's that was made that was a bit wider, but I have no idea what it was fitted to (the Wolf, maybe???).

It's not a problem to fit either a coiler or leafer to the front of a Disco/RRC/Defender. It's pretty easy, actually. The problems you run into are brakes and axles. No one wants drums. Has anyone seen the price of vented Sal's rotors? Hahaha. You can find some solid rotors to fit the Sal's for a bit cheaper, but they're still $$$. They're an odd size - something like 32 or 34mm - and if you can find them they cost a ton. Some people can luck out when getting started and find a Sal's that came out of an Armored vehicle and they might already have good rotors installed. Regardless, rotors are $$$.

But you still have not addressed the axle issue. You've only fixed the 3rd member issue. The Sal's axles are still very weak. It's a 23-spline star on the CV and the inner axles neck way down to fit this. Even if you had someone like Moser custom make you some 1541H inner axles and fit a 35-spline D60 carrier, there are no strong CV's available to fit the Sal's. People have been breaking the AEU2522 CV's on trucks with 33's since the late 90's when it become popular to swap out the suffix A drive flanges and install the 2522's into the newer Rovers. And, that I know of, there is no way to fit the 101 CV's onto a coiler or leafer Sal's unless you've got a machine shop, some extra time, and the know-how to make the knuckles needed. Even the "HD" 2522 CV's found overseas are weak in comparison to the new generation CV's we're seeing in the States these days.

In the end, all you've got is a tater plow.

 

[muskyman]

I guess I should be a little more clear. It is only common to fit a Sal's to the rear. Putting a Sals in the front is neither cost justifiable or an upgrade.

There are at least three variations of the front Sal's axles; coil, leaf, and the 101. There is one more Sal's that was made that was a bit wider, but I have no idea what it was fitted to (the Wolf, maybe???).

It's not a problem to fit either a coiler or leafer to the front of a Disco/RRC/Defender. It's pretty easy, actually. The problems you run into are brakes and axles. No one wants drums. Has anyone seen the price of vented Sal's rotors? Hahaha. You can find some solid rotors to fit the Sal's for a bit cheaper, but they're still $$$. They're an odd size - something like 32 or 34mm - and if you can find them they cost a ton. Some people can luck out when getting started and find a Sal's that came out of an Armored vehicle and they might already have good rotors installed. Regardless, rotors are $$$.

But you still have not addressed the axle issue. You've only fixed the 3rd member issue. The Sal's axles are still very weak. It's a 23-spline star on the CV and the inner axles neck way down to fit this. Even if you had someone like Moser custom make you some 1541H inner axles and fit a 35-spline D60 carrier, there are no strong CV's available to fit the Sal's. People have been breaking the AEU2522 CV's on trucks with 33's since the late 90's when it become popular to swap out the suffix A drive flanges and install the 2522's into the newer Rovers. And, that I know of, there is no way to fit the 101 CV's onto a coiler or leafer Sal's unless you've got a machine shop, some extra time, and the know-how to make the knuckles needed. Even the "HD" 2522 CV's found overseas are weak in comparison to the new generation CV's we're seeing in the States these days.

In the end, all you've got is a tater plow.

If one wanted a single call to Keith at rovertracks and you could combine the defender brakes with disco hubs, spindles and toyota CV's on a sals front housing and get yourself 30 spline from the diff to drive flange at a somewhat affordable cost.

IMHO the complete toy 3rd and CV conversion would be better as you then also get more ground clearence and the modular 3rd for easier service.

 

[cooter]

If one wanted a single call to Keith at rovertracks and you could combine the defender brakes with disco hubs, spindles and toyota CV's on a sals front housing and get yourself 30 spline from the diff to drive flange at a somewhat affordable cost.

Oh, I'm not saying it could not be done. You can do anything. You can even shave that monstrous tater plow Sal's down a bit. But by the time you're done, you may as wall have installed a Spider9.

I guess the bottom line is you can keep your truck looking stock, have a stronger set-up, and create less work on your wallet and hands if you just install Dave's CV/axles. I think that's what the OP was looking for.

Now if the OP is looking to run some monster meats then obviously that changes things. But TerriAnn's statement out installing a Sal's to fix the problem was a little loony.

 

[revor]

I like a Sals in the rear, Mine have all been converted to 1.5", 35 spline axles I have no fear of breakage so I can use my Tater plow to punish those nasty rocks for getting in my way or barber poling my driveshaft. They get shaved eventually. The next truck will have "something different" though:Wow1:

As for a front Sals I've build a few 30 spline versions that should be pretty close to the strength of a stock front 60.
The biggest disadvantage to the front Sali is the steering, using Rover knuckles it still requires the tie rod to run behind the axle, the Front Sals is a low pinion so the steering bar needs to go UNDER the diff.. How do you fix that? Different knuckles but now you're building a Dana 60.
IMO the front Sals is good for only some applications.

New JK type Dana 44's offer huge bearings better gears and much more strength over the previous versions, they can be had in a High pinion configuration, So if you want to keep the stock type steering the Toy or the 44 are be best options.. If you want to go off the deep end then a Sals/60 or a Spider 9 fit the bill.
I'm sure I've missed somthing but this is what I've worked with the most.

 

[Yorker]

Unless of course you have a Series truck with a Salisbury. Then you can drive by the Toys with broken pinions, and in the extremely rare chance you might break an axle, you can keep going while their semi floating axles fall off.

What does that have to do to with the Toyata conversion to Land Rover axle housings? none of those are semi floating. Stock for stock the shafts on the Toyotas are still bigger than the Salisbury's. Sure the Salisbury center may be stronger than the Toyota's but come on...duh! Anything can be broken if you try hard enough.

 

[michaels]

What does that have to do to with the Toyata conversion to Land Rover axle housings? none of those are semi floating. Stock for stock the shafts on the Toyotas are still bigger than the Salisbury's. Sure the Salisbury center may be stronger than the Toyota's but come on...duh! Anything can be broken if you try hard enough.

DIIs are semi float, which the OP owns. you won't break keith's axles no matter how hard you try, so i'd say the semi float design only sucks when installing his axles.

 

[Yorker]

Nope, Salisbury fronts were used on both Series Rovers and Defenders. Not real common, but some had them.
Series 3 1 Tons all had them
Salisbury front RH Stg - FRC3398
Salisbury front LH Stg - 59441

No they didn't. Early series III 1 tons had dual Salisbury axles- later suffix c 109 1 tons went back to the Rover front end. 101 1 tonnes had them but that is a different issue.

 

[cooter]

you won't break keith's axles no matter how hard you try, so i'd say the semi float design only sucks when installing his axles.

Sure about that?

 

[muskyman]

DIIs are semi float, which the OP owns. you won't break keith's axles no matter how hard you try, so i'd say the semi float design only sucks when installing his axles.

everything breaks

 

[michaels]

everything breaks

no ****, but he's only running 34s. they won't break.

 

[michaels]

Sure about that?

it's an exaggeration. see my above post.

 

[Antichrist]

No they didn't. Early series III 1 tons had dual Salisbury axles- later suffix c 109 1 tons went back to the Rover front end. 101 1 tonnes had them but that is a different issue.

I was going by my parts book, which I guess was published before suffix C. I didn't check later versions.
Yeah, I wasn't even mentioning 101's since they are a completely different beast. And was just addressing the statement that a Salisbury only fits the back. My point was just that they are in fact a bolt in to the front as well.
I also didn't mention ENV's which some consider to be stronger than Salisbury.

 

[TeriAnn]

But TerriAnn's statement out installing a Sal's to fix the problem was a little loony.

This thread looked like it needed a little pick me up to get poster's juices flowing. I know that there are a lot of people who post in this section who love everything Toyota except their looks and want everyone to have a Land Rover bodied Toyota. And others of you think Land Rovers are OK and could just use a little help from aftermarket suppliers. But most all of you really like to get the juices flowing in a good armchair engineering argument. Afterall isn't that what the Land Rover section of this forum is all about?

So I was just tossing out a semi off topic statement that you guys could use as an excuse to have some arm chair engineering fun.

Have fun!