"Bruce" the 2014 Jeep JKUR Build Thread

[zigsrig]

The article you mentioned is an interesting read. However, It is from 2009... Maybe things have changed since then? Im just going with what I have seen on the trail.

As for the nose up appearance, before putting on the AEV front bumper (and winch) i felt like mine had a nose up look. After putting it all on, i felt it looked "better"... However, in reality, i lost about .75" up front.

As an added bonus, it seems to handle better now too. Almost like the AEV system likes more weight.

Either way you go, you are going to love the lift. While our jeeps are very capable stock, adding the lift was the best thing i have done to it. Plus, It puts a smile on my face every time i drive it :sombrero:

 

[KlausVanWinkle]

I'm excited about the extra clearance. But I don't have a very heavy build planned. I'm worried about the nose up thing. I will add a front winch at some point though.

 

[MTSN]

That's a pretty huge price gap though. Nitro Sleeves are $120, and you can install them in your driveway. Idk how much ball joints are, but the skids and gussetts are another $100 and probably $100 to have a professional welder install. So we're talkinga bout spending $300 vs like $3000 on a new axle.

I'm sure I don't need a dana 60 axle or a truss. But I'm not sure if I need to reinforce the Dana 44. The other issue is that the C-gussetts get in the way of some of the AEV bolt on bracketry.

@MTSN, are you planning to go to the 50th Anniversary EJS next year? I'd like to go to moab the week and stay for some of the maddness.

The way I look at it is that the kit in the link you provided is $295 plus $275 for install (I'm no welder and I don't have the time or space to learn at this point). I'm not sure if that includes the cost of pulling the axle off the Jeep to get to the welds easier, but if it doesn't that's an added cost. I would also do the high end ball joints around the same time which are about $250 a side plus labor, then alignment after all that. For me to get it done I'd be looking at probably $1300 pretty easy to pay someone to do it right, then I'd still have the stock front axle. If I could buy a new HD housing for $2500-$3000 with ball joints installed (some you can get already dialed in for the lift you're running - castor, pinion, etc.) and swap in internals for another few hundred and sell the old housing, my guess is I'd be into the whole thing for around $3k out of pocket. Sure it's about $1500-$2000 more than modifying the stock parts, but I think it's a justifiable increase in performance and reliability. I've just never been a fan of cutting and welding stuff on my trucks, and I also think about resale value of the vehicle quite a bit which doesn't typically favor cutting and welding.

Of course it's just my opinion and it's all talk until I actually pull out the plastic and get it all done, so take it FWIW I'd definitely like to do Moab next year for EJS, and I'm thinking about planning a trip with my fiancé down there this fall. We should see if we can get some old 100 series converts to make a little meetup!

 

[KlausVanWinkle]

Idk about those numbers. You can wait to do ball joints until you need to.

Sleeves $120. Install: free
Gussets and skids $110. Install: $100 on the vehicle.

Pretty cheap insurance.

But yes we should. My land cruiser friends still go to cruise Moab bandito style so they're not interested. I'll have to make new friends.

 

[MTSN]

But yes we should. My land cruiser friends still go to cruise Moab bandito style so they're not interested. I'll have to make new friends.

Haha I feel the same way!

 

[MTSN]

Not that I can do anything about it. But I've been thinking about lifts lately.

Now that I know that I'll probably go with 35" tires, I could go with a 2.5 or 3.5" AEV lift. AEV claims that the 3.5 handles better and is better engineered. Originally I wanted to do a moderate build. But lately I'm thinking I'd rather go with more clearance so I don't have to worry about banging and scraping as much with the JKU's high price tag, low hanging underside and long wheelbase. IT sems like I'd still be able to fit into parking decks and not experience much downside other than cost.

I went to my local trusted 4x4 shop today (kinda sad that I'm no longer shopping at Slee), and fortunately I showed up when there were JKURs with the 2.5", 3.5" and 4.5" lifts in the parking lot with everything from 315/70/17 Duratracs to 37/12.5/17 KO2s. I was standing at the counter discussing the 2.5 vs 3.5 with the very knowledgeable guy about the pros and cons when the dude next me walked over to share his experience. I kid you not - he said hey go take a look at my JKUR I have the AEV 2.5" right now and right now I'm buying the 3.5" to replace it. We went outside to check it out, and it looked really good with the 2.5 and 35 KM2s almost stock. But he said he really wished he had gone with the 3.5 to begin with because it sagged a bit when it was loaded down. The 35s looked stock on the 2.5, but it looked like it would be tight flexed out.

The shop is normally booked out about 6-8 weeks, but I asked just in case and they said a guy had just cancelled his spot on Monday. So after looking at everything side by side I pulled the trigger on the 3.5 AEV and subbed the Superchips Traildash in place of the Procal. I am putting on 2015 JKUR rims with 1.5" Spidertrax spacers and 35x12.5x17 AT KO2s next week too, so that should be a good jump start to my build. I'll let you know what I think of the ride from the perspective of a prior OME lifted 100 series owner.

 

[west_ok]

Good call! You won't be disappointed.


B.J.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[zigsrig]

For those wondering what the differences look like between the 3.5" and the 2.5" in the real world (3.5" has 315 duratrac's, 2.5" has 35" nitto trails). The owner of the Tank JK has had multiple JK's, with every lift from AEV (2.5, 3.5 & 4.5)

 

[Comanche Scott]

That is a very interesting picture. I'd swear, just by looking that the Tank colored Jeep has bigger tires & sits higher. Funny how the black rims, and slightly less lift changes the whole appearance.
BTW: both Jeeps look pretty awesome in my book! :beer:

 

[KlausVanWinkle]

I ran into an AEV JK250 across the street from my office on Friday. I whipped out the tape measure. He was only about 2" taller than me including the 35" BFG MT KM2 tires.

This solidified my decision to wait and save up for the 3.5" lift kit and 35x12.5r17 BFG MT KM2s. I want extra clearance.

Beside being the lightest 35" MT tire, the BFG KM2's dimensions are deceptive. The tread that touches the road only measured about 9.5" wide on this Jeep. That might explain why it's the only 12.5" wide MT tire I've seen that doesn't look overly fat and wide on a JK. The KO2s only coming in E rated, not looking at good, and measuring in way below 35" made me decide on the KM2s. Now I'll have to see if I need new wheels or if a local tire shop will mount them on my OEM rims. I'd have no problem selling my Rubicon wheels, but they and the tires already have some rock rash. Plus, I'd have to replace the TMPS in the new wheels. So we'll see.

 

[KlausVanWinkle]

With the house closing only 3 weeks away, and the end in sight, I started organizing my thoughts on what to do next. To put off doing work at work, I broke it into phases today. This seems like the ideal order to do these in since a lot of these are necessary to run 35s. And to maximize fun and clearance in the short run (between now and winter). Let me know if yall think any of this is unnecessary or out of order. I figured I'd get all the welding stuff done at once as far as C-gussets, LCA mount kids and adding a step to the Rubicon Rails.

Anyone who's followed my rambling and planning on this thread knows that I keep going back and forth on a tire carrier. When you add up all the stuff necessary to use rotopax and properly backspace a 35" tire with the TF carrier, it ends up being more than just getting the AEV carrier and fuel caddy. I'm thinking the AEV is stronger and would probably help resale better also. Plus, I kind of don't trust Teraflex products. Rear view wireless monitors only cost like $50 now. So that helps with some of the visibility concerns. And I wouldn't mind having 10gal of aux fuel in Mexico or when exploring with my buddy's thirsty Discovery.

I'd like to have the 35s and lift done by Moab next spring.

Phase One: Topless Fun
What's the point of having a Jeep in SoCal if you don't take the top off?
Bestop Trail Cover
Quadratec Safari Mirrors

Phase Two: Temporary Lift/ Light/Recovery/Convenience
The airbags solved my spring sag issue. Now I just need some clearance and cheap ways to get unstuck without a winch
AEV 2.0 Spacer Lift
PSC Evap Skid No longer necessary. 2014s have an OEM skidplate.
ARB IPF Headlight conversion
MaxTrax
2gal Water rotopax for shelf
Rotopax mount
Springtail Solution Molle Tailgate table
Zodi Xtreme Shower & rollbar mount
Daystar reinforced hood latch strap

Phase Three: Winch
My wife likes going solo exploring so self recovery is important. I also need some weight in the front.
Warn VR8000
Synthetic Winch Line
Winch extension cable
Olympic recessed winch plate
14” LED Light bar (if the trucklites don't cut it)

Phase Four: Protection/ 35” Prep
Bending an axle would suck, I'd rather pay $250 now to prevent it. Also 3.5" lift and 35s will make getting in hard without a step.
Nitro Gear Axle Sleeves
Nitro Gear C gussets and LCA skids
Warrior Products Renegade rails
EVO rear control arm skids
Sway bar disconnect skid
ARB front diff cover
Cheaper lipless read diff cover.

Phase Five: Tire Carrier
35s aren't very useful if one is flat. I also don't want to crack my tailgate or run out of gas.
AEV Tire Carrier
AEV Fuel Caddy
Rearview screen

Phase Six: 35s and 3.5
Finally some clearance and proper backspacing.
AEV Argent Pintler/ Quadratec Moab Machined Wheels
TMPS 5x
BFG MT KM2 35x12.5R17
AEV 3.5” Lift kit

 

[Yuccahead]

I have the AEV rear bumper/fuel caddy and while I got pretty good using my mirrors for everything, I wanted a camera. You can't see anything directly behind the Jeep. I ended up buying a camera and a large display that clips over the mirror. Thought the display might be goofy but I think it looks fine. One friend asked me about the Nintendo mounted over my rear view mirror but I don't mind. Installation of the camera on top of the AEV CHMSL was pretty easy and then running wires to the front and the rear view mirror is not too hard in a Jeep. I have had it installed for a few months now and it's great in crowded parking lots. Otherwise, I still use the mirrors. These are the parts I bought but there are many options.

Camera:http://www.amazon.com/Esky-EC170-06...d=1433820331&sr=8-1&keywords=rear+view+camera

Screen: http://www.amazon.com/Inch-Widescre...=1433820407&sr=8-4&keywords=rear+view+monitor

If you need a little confidence help, go to Quadratec and download the instructions for the CHMSL and AEVs review camera/mirror system. It will show you how to run the the wires.

 

[HRPINDC]

If you all like doing solo trips, I would move the winch up. Probably would swap phase two and three and skip the Maxtraxs for now to save a few bucks.

Also, not sure if you saw, but trucklites is planning a 40% price increase according to Northridge. So you might consider doing the TL now, while you can still find them at $399. Good luck!

 

[KlausVanWinkle]

I'm not totally sold on trucklites. I live in a city so trips are the only time I even use my lame high beams. A lightbar might cut it.

Im actually getting some off brand maxtrax for $110 that have better reviews than maxtrax. That was why I was getting that first. Also they work in the desert where there isn't a free to winch off of. I also don't think the oem front suspension can handle a winch. So I want to do that close to the AEV 3.5 lift.

 

[KlausVanWinkle]

I have the AEV rear bumper/fuel caddy and while I got pretty good using my mirrors for everything, I wanted a camera. You can't see anything directly behind the Jeep. I ended up buying a camera and a large display that clips over the mirror. Thought the display might be goofy but I think it looks fine. One friend asked me about the Nintendo mounted over my rear view mirror but I don't mind. Installation of the camera on top of the AEV CHMSL was pretty easy and then running wires to the front and the rear view mirror is not too hard in a Jeep. I have had it installed for a few months now and it's great in crowded parking lots. Otherwise, I still use the mirrors. These are the parts I bought but there are many options.

Camera:http://www.amazon.com/Esky-EC170-06...d=1433820331&sr=8-1&keywords=rear+view+camera

Screen: http://www.amazon.com/Inch-Widescre...=1433820407&sr=8-4&keywords=rear+view+monitor

If you need a little confidence help, go to Quadratec and download the instructions for the CHMSL and AEVs review camera/mirror system. It will show you how to run the the wires.

Thanks for the details! That sounds perfect. I also considered removing the fuel caddy and lowering the spare for daily driving. But I have to parallel park every night so a camera would get a lot of use.