Building Camper for Small Pickups

[Goober]

It's pretty rigid, as I've be moving it around on the dolly the dolly flexes but the camper doesn't and will rock back and forth on the dolly.

How I'm mounting it I'm hoping for a little flex, but I'll be watching it and carrying backup tie down straps if something gives.

I don't think there is anyway to build a camper that flexes unless the sides are fabric or the whole thing is made of rubber. The engineer who built the Super Camper designed a rear mount that pivoted in order to allow the frame to flex while travelling over rough terrain without cracking the camper.

http://thesupercamper.blogspot.com/2006/09/super-camper-inspiration-concept-and.html

 

[IdaSHO]

A pivot mount system is the way to go for a flatbed camper.

The 3-point pivot I have on mine works great. Zero fuss, nothing to worry about, it just works. Allows the chassis to flex and the camper to survive.

 

[2025 deleted member]

So the center bolt pictured is holding that c-channel down, and allows that c-channel to pivot side to side?

 

[Goober]

Yes, there's a rubber spacer that allows the mount to flex.

 

[AxleIke]

Wow, that is amazing fab work! Well done!

Just curious, and not knocking the build in any way, but what was your reasoning for not building it tall enough to stand up in? I get trying to make it aerodynamic, and not so top heavy, but seems like a pretty huge compromise. Unless you are under 5 feet tall, in which case I withdraw the question!

Regardless, a fabulous build, and looking forward to more updates!

Cheers! :friday:

 

[Goober]

From the Beginning

Main goal was to keep the weight down.

After looking for a commercial built camper and only finding campers that weigh 1000+lbs. I've decided to build my own. My Tacoma only has a 1300lb. load capacity and after passengers and gear that doesn't leave much. I want something smaller than a full cabover but more than just a shell. I've been camping this summer and sleeping in the back with the Leer shell and the 6' bed isn't long enough for me to sleep in comfortably, being 6'1".

My plan is to build a modified version of the importer. Shorter height wise, 5' tall instead of the 6' the plans call for. This would be tall enough to sit in. A small cabover section for extra storage space and 80" long cabin so I don't have to sleep corner to corner (which I do now with just the shell arrangement). A fully finished Importer dry weight is 700lbs. So by cutting down the size and not putting in all the interior cabinetry and equipment, I'm hoping to keep it under 500lbs.

 

[Goober]

Started putting the siding on today.

 

[4x4x4doors]

Been watching this one. Looking good.

 

[robert]

What kind of aluminum are you using for the siding?

 

[Goober]

RV siding, bought it at a trailer repair/supply shop. I gave them drawings and they custom made all the pieces.

 

[roadrider2617]

Awesome build!

 

[stickynicky]

What a great build and an inspiration! I would love to tackle a project like this but I doubt I could afford all the extra wood I would need. I'm not good about measure twice and cut once. Keep up the amazing work and good luck with the completion.

BTW: Do people not read the first post the OP put up? Read the whole thread then he won't have to answer the same question 3 times.

 

[Goober]

I'm the guy a work who always has stupid knee jerk answers and usually get people mad a me. So I have a list of knee jerk answers to what kind of aluminum.

1. non-magnetic
2. white
3. opaque
4. Atomic number 13
5. (my favorite) the aluminum kind

and on the serious side....

I've had my fair share of measure twice and still cut it wrong, when I cut the framing for the cabinet doors, 45 deg cuts, after having routed the beveled edges, the very first piece I cut was backwards (angles cut the wrong way). Just bare had enough that I didn't need to route more stock. Discovered after screwing up a piece of plywood, the 60" straight edge I was using had an inaccurate scale printed on it which cause the camper to be 3/16" shorter than planned (hey, it was made in America). But the most critical part is what I'm doing now, the siding, it's the most expensive and I only get one shot at putting it on right. It's designed to go on in a specific order. Just try to pull 3/4" staple out of this!

 

[Hoosier 45]

Cool job. What type and thickness of ply wood did you use. It looks like pine 1/4" & I/8 luan. Did you look at birch plywood and decide against it or was the thought pine all along?
Thanks

 

[Goober]

Mostly what was available at the local home improvement stores. Lowes, Home Depot.

Upper Walls: 1/4" AC Fir Exterior plywood
Lower Box/wings: 11/32" AC Fir Exterior plywood
Floor: 15/32" AC Fir Exterior plywood
Front ceiling (curved): 5.0mm Utility Hardwood (this was a bad choice as it was tough to bend)
Rear ceiling (flat section): 5.0mm x4'x8' Underlayment
Interior panelling: Murphy 1/8" Cedar MDF Wall Panel

I would have used 3/16" for upper walls and 1/8 luan for ceilings if I'd found some.