Building My Overland Tacoma: Plans, Progress, Perplexions

daverami

Explorer
Michael said:
I just exchanged emails with Scott at Deaver Springs to confirm the size of shims they installed. My original email said I used a 5 degree shim, but it turns out it was a 3 deg shim (I corrected my original post). The first shim I tried was 2.5 deg and the 0.5 deg increase in the Deaver shim made a noticeable difference. The 3 degree shim worked well for me, but I also have airbags installed so your solution may be different. It might take some "fit and check" work. I've attached a photo with a view of the back end of the spring pack looking from midline toward the passenger side. I hope this works for you!

Did you do anything with your carrier bearing too?
 

Michael

Adventurer
daverami said:
Did you do anything with your carrier bearing too?

No, but that was the next option I was going to try if the shims didn't work. Fortunately, they did work and I'm happy now with the alignment as evidenced by the lack of vibration as I move through the gears. There is a very slight vibration as I first start moving, but I noticed that when it was stock. Not everyone has the initial vibration, but many do right off the dealer's lot. It is so negligible that I consider it not worth chasing down.
 

DarkHelmet

Adventurer
Overland Hadley said:
Hmm, not sure on this.

Does your emergency light/siren system work when you have the Lo beams on?

Was your thread looking for this info here on ExPo?

Yes, the high beam flasher will work regardless of whether the headlight switch is on or off. It also did not affect operation of the factory fog lights which would stay illuminated when the flasher was on.

The thread was on an emergency lighting forum where I posted the FSM wiring diagrams to be reviewed.

- DH
 

Overland Hadley

on a journey
DarkHelmet said:
Yes, the high beam flasher will work regardless of whether the headlight switch is on or off. It also did not affect operation of the factory fog lights which would stay illuminated when the flasher was on.

The thread was on an emergency lighting forum where I posted the FSM wiring diagrams to be reviewed.

- DH

Sounds like you got the right info.

The info I came up with must not be for the 05+ Tacoma, I am thinking it was for 4Runners and for older Tacomas.

Thanks for the correction!
 

NothingClever

Explorer
For the life of me, I don't understand why folks want to slave their aux lights to their high beams rather than operate them independently as the situation warrants.

Why is this a good thing?
 

ntsqd

Heretic Car Camper
One switch to kill the brights for on-coming traffic. I'm not talking about on the pavement. I've been in situations off road where this would've been a desirable option.
There are other ways to achieve the same thing, this is just one of the easiest to do.
 

Overland Hadley

on a journey
NothingClever said:
For the life of me, I don't understand why folks want to slave their aux lights to their high beams rather than operate them independently as the situation warrants.

Why is this a good thing?


Because it is easier to dim them when you get oncoming traffic.

The big concern up here is hitting a moose, hitting a deer is a bad thing too, but most likely you will live through that experience.

The IPF 989s are road legal with the 55w bulb in them. That in combination with an easy way to dimm them, (would hate to blind an oncoming Border Patrol person, or a logginng truck for that matter) and the fact that you can drive for an hour and pass only a handfull of oncoming traffic up here made me want to have them linked to my brights.

But I have now changed my mind as I do not want to mess with the factory wiring. I will just have to be extra careful to get them turned off when oncoming traffic is present.
 

Mtriple

New member
Overland Hadley said:
Because it is easier to dim them when you get oncoming traffic.

The big concern up here is hitting a moose, hitting a deer is a bad thing too, but most likely you will live through that experience.

The IPF 989s are road legal with the 55w bulb in them. That in combination with an easy way to dimm them, (would hate to blind an oncoming Border Patrol person, or a logginng truck for that matter) and the fact that you can drive for an hour and pass only a handfull of oncoming traffic up here made me want to have them linked to my brights.

But I have now changed my mind as I do not want to mess with the factory wiring. I will just have to be extra careful to get them turned off when oncoming traffic is present.

I like the idea. Why not have the best of both worlds and have a switch to overide so that you can turn them on whenever you want. It really woudlnt be that hard. Diode isolate the 2 circuits before the relays for the lights and throw a switch in the dash to turn the lights on when you want. Done.
 

Overland Hadley

on a journey
Mtriple said:
I like the idea. Why not have the best of both worlds and have a switch to overide so that you can turn them on whenever you want. It really woudlnt be that hard. Diode isolate the 2 circuits before the relays for the lights and throw a switch in the dash to turn the lights on when you want. Done.

I have been thinking something like that should be possible.

But I am still learning the electrical stuff, and I like the idea of keeping things as simple as possible. (For now at least.)
 

Mtriple

New member
Overland Hadley said:
I have been thinking something like that should be possible.

But I am still learning the electrical stuff, and I like the idea of keeping things as simple as possible. (For now at least.)

I can PM you some simple directions if you can PM me some good trails up on the North Shore. :sombrero:
 

Overland Hadley

on a journey
Mtriple said:
I can PM you some simple directions if you can PM me some good trails up on the North Shore. :sombrero:

Can you write up the directions here on my thread?
(And feel free to PM me anytime about the North Shore)

Thanks!
 

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