I'm not quit sure where you're coming from with this. Was it the "cheers for the comments and critics" comment I made. I don't know about you, but where I come from cheers is similar to a 'thanks' or 'here's to you' sort of thing. Maybe Cheers means something different where you're from. Maybe cheers means 'up yours' in your neck of the woods. I don't know. I do Know I have this build thread going on three separate website forums. I've been getting lots of comments and critics all of which I take into consideration and quit a few I've even adopted into the build. I work 50+ hours a week and am just simply building this trailer in my spare time with hopes that maybe someone else might be interested in one of there own as well. I'm sorry I don't always have time to reply to every single comment left on the thread but I do read them all and take them all seriously. I try to give my reasoning on why I went the ways I did with the build and not just shoot down ideas but also not blindly take every bit of advise that comes my way.
On to your questions about the build:
As far as height goes, I agree, the trailer walls are probably to tall. I'm 6'3" and it isn't a problem for me but I could defiantly see it being an issue in the future for a shorter person.
1,000 lbs is not light I agree. With that weight hopefully comes durability on gnarly trails and longevity of the trailer. I could build the trailer out of aluminium but that would probably have doubled the build cost. I could have gone with lighter material but I felt that would have been a compromise on the long term durability of the trailer. I hope to take this trailer on overlanding trips as well as on more rock crawling type trails.
The revised version of the tailgate has the zert fittings in the hinges and the 'BBQ' hinges are welded in the same direction so it can be removed.
The lid can not be removed. I don't think it will be an issue while painting and neither does the painter I'm talking with to paint it. When I sourced the larger hinges for the lid they didn't carry a version with zert fittings at the time. Since then I, and I think because I talked to them about it, they have started carrying the greaseable version in that size. As far as it being non-removable that wasn't my first choice for for the design. I just didn't feel comfortable that the lid wouldn't just 'fall off' if you wanted to open it on an incline. The latches would keep it when closed but if you were on a hill and just needed to get into it I would worry about the barrel hinges just sliding apart from each other and the lid just falling off. Non-removable was the way I decided to eliminate the potential for this happening.
The trailer will have very simple electrics. Mainly just a 12V battery to run a water pump and a few 12V outlets for phone charging or lights in the tent maybe. I plan to have the battery, water tank and pump sit in the first 12" or so of the box. I may build a bolt in platform later for them to sit on that way things could be stored under them and less space is wasted. As far as 'flush mount unobtrusive water tank' goes I assume you are referring to the spigot? I looked a little into the RV style Chinese made plastic insert ones. None seemed to really fit the bill. I'm sorry you don't like the spigot idea, but I like the idea of just flipping a switch for a pump and just turning a valve to get fresh water. A rock would really have to be protruding to knock it off but I suppose it is possible.
Cheers & thanks for the comments and critics
Jake
Ok, thanks for the reply. In my opinion the term "cheers" is reserved for the British, Australians, sometimes South Africans, hipster, neck beards and mechanical/ electrical engineers. I noticed your build on the other forums, however only comment on it here.
I personally think your build is good, the fab work is good also. I just think putting a a drawing on paper is a lot different then building it. However there is a lot of exceptions to that for members who built trailers here. Especially Titanpat.
If you plan on selling them, build something modular, that you can build on. You backed yourself into a corner with your lower main frame and tongue. For example, start with your frame and skip all the junk at the tongue. Waste of tube and weight. It's tied correctly in. However it could be lighter and just as strong. Plus it would leave you with options for a water tank (Usually 16" wide and 8" tall. Length depends on capacity) if you re did the cross members and see next paragraph below.
A gusset, fish plate would go well on this build also. I also think that on some builds 15' of 3/16-1/4" of 2x2 running the length of the frame just to tie the receiver or a rear recovery point is over kill. Although it makes a great place to run your wires through.
I don't think the side wall are too tall. However adding step plates or kick outs intergrated to the redesigned fenders would help accessing the stuff stored inside unless you plan a full pull out drawer system.
As far as weight goes, I would not pull a half ton unloaded trailer on "gnarley trail"
You could cut weight on the lid. No need for 16 gauge steel sheeting and the extra square tubing to fit a RTT on. That's extra weight and makes it more top heavy. Skinning it with aluminum would have been a better choice. Better off storing heavy stuff low the trailer. It will not allow space to store more stuff on top, unless you want it more top heavy. Kind of a waste to design the lid cage around a Hight lift jack with "DOM" mounts.
You can also skip all the metal crossmembers, ect on the 16 gauge skinned walls. It's not going to a demolition derby and seems to have no function except extra weight and "strength". The sheet is already stitch welded like crazy on. It's good enough. The only use for those would be to add tie down point. However some in the floor would work also.
As far as the choice of SPOA and SPUA, why did you choose to go spring over axle? More height? It's definatly not for fender clearance, but I guess for the "gnarly trails" you want as much height as you can get off the 3500 springs? Better to keep it lower CG especially with a RTT and firewood stored on top.
As far as hinges go, you can buy stainless no hole hinges and drill them out and use your nutserts to install them. Better option for those guys who might want to remove a 100lb lid to move a fridge or washing machine. That is once you give you customer their choice of tailgate. BBQ hinges are nice though, on a BBQ. Although they do sell up to 7" ones with zirks on EBay for a fair price.
Also, you can purchase custom axles for very good price and free shipping from ABC trailer supply. They even do 6x5.5 pattern. Ask for Bob. Production this time of year can take a bit longer since the demand from builders is getting up with the warmer weather. Although you should know that, right? Working at trailer company's and all.
Also, you can find some wide jeep style fenders without spending more then $100. Might take a bit of fab work, nothing Burley fabrication can't handle though.
Also just noticed, did you skin both sides of the tailgate with 16 gauge? If so how do you plan on keeping the inside that the 2 pieces of skin and everything that's sandwiched in between from rusting since it cannot be painted?
Peace out.
