Buying 2002 V10 Quigley need help/advice the clock is ticking need to make a choice

[Jb1rd]

So I am ready to pull the trigger on this 2002 V10 Quigley E350 EB passenger with no rear seats or interior panels, 130k it is in W. FL but came from Maine and according to the broker it needs complete brake lines and new tires. Here is my dilemma, it is 3+ hours away and I need to 1.drive over and rent a uhaul and tow dolly to tow it back which will cost upwards of $350 dollars or buy it sight unseen and have it shipped for $250. The guy does not and will not deal on the van he is firm at $6900. I am nervous to buy something sight unseen and at the same time I don't know what the benefit of driving over spending a day of my time and more money when I won't even be able to drive it when I get there. I have a rough quote to completely redo the entire brake system front and rear for $1600 I am worried that if the rust has destroyed the brake lines what else is most likely to be destroyed as well? I really don't know. It feels like a good deal on one hand but potentially could bite me in the ***. Thoughts, suggestions???? I don't want to pass up a good deal but don't want to rush it either.

 

[njtacoma]

I looked at that one on ebay (or I think it is the same one).

Rust that caused the brakes to fail scares me. The mismatched tires and one already flat is a red flag as well.

I'm not near it, so that was a factor as well. It seems like the price is high to me, but again I had transportation to consider.

I'm spoiled because magchloride in Colorado eats cars away more slowly than actual salt.

Good Luck.

 

[Jb1rd]

I looked at that one on ebay (or I think it is the same one).

Rust that caused the brakes to fail scares me. The mismatched tires and one already flat is a red flag as well.

I'm not near it, so that was a factor as well. It seems like the price is high to me, but again I had transportation to consider.

I'm spoiled because magchloride in Colorado eats cars away more slowly than actual salt.

Good Luck.

Well that is where I am going back to with the van and hence the reason for buying a 4wd. I talked to the gentleman and looked into the company he owns 22 years in business and 100% positive feedback on Ebay. His reason for selling as is, is that he has a dozen or more vehicles ahead of it that need to be done for different dealers. Don't know that solves anything but seems reasonable. (he also said that if he did not get the $6900 he would sit on it and fix it when he had time and re-list for $9998)

 

[Baw335]

If your serious about it, it is def. worth taking a look at. I went to MI with the intent of buying a very similar one that you are looking at now. It was a 01 Quigley EB V10 with 150k on the clock, the body looked decent and although rust was present I didn't see any major issues. The guy was asking $7k for it and I was able to get him down to $6200 if everything checked out. I crawled underneath and much to my surprise there was not much left of most bolt heads, I would have had to drill everything out when I started replacing parts. I'm no stranger to rust but this was an extreme example; I wouldn't have bought it for $5k.

With a Quigley, be careful when estimating the cost of repairs, there are some parts such as the front rotors that either have to come from Quigley or be custom machined which always costs more on some model years. I think your year van falls into this category which means the same thing goes for unit bearings (somebody please correct me if I'm wrong). Everything situation is different but I've always been a fan of "things will cost 3x as much and take 3x as long than what you planned." More than likely it would probably be an okay rig, but I agree with tacoma; there are quite a few red flags already.

 

[landyachtcaptn]

For what its worth I would never buy a vehicle without being there in person. There are too many crooks out there. If I were you I'd rent a compact car and drive it down there and if things work out drive the van back if it's drivable. If things don't work out then you can consider the expense of the trip as cheaper than having paid too much for a junker you didn't want.

As to negotiation on price my experience is that unless you are standing in front of someone with $$ in your hand any price negotiation is a waste of both your time. I drove from NC to northern Ohio to buy my van and wound up talking $1000 off the price over a whine from the red end (I knew it was going to be re-geared in the 4wd conversion anyway). If you are standing there with money in your hand ready to do business the seller has to ask himself is it really worth the drop in price to keep trying for another offer that may never come.

In the words of the great negotiator Roger Dawson "Never be afraid to walk away".

 

[John W]

Give it a pass if you're not sure.
You'll find something better.
One man's opinion.

 

[Jb1rd]

Just got the carfax, it is clean, no defects or accidents reported on it, and it is not from Maine but Ohio, one owner fleet van, and looks to be dealer maintained. Does coming from Ohio make any difference? According to carfax the brakes were serviced, rear pads replaced,rotors resurfaced, the front shocks replaced and an alignment in 2011

 

[draaronr]

here's my .02 I'm not afraid of rust, because I own a shop and I can fix it at cost. But if I didn't I would walk away from it, as it will cost double what you plan to get it fixed right. also if you are tight on money, run away. I looked at it, and if see you spending an extra 2500-3k to make it road worthy and updated service. if that's in your budget and rust doesn't scare you then jump on it. you can likely get your money back out if you change your mind in a few months.

 

[Cole]

Couple of thoughts to plant in your head.

1. 99% of aftermarket parts don't have the same level of corrosion protection as factory parts. (AEV is actually the only company I know of that makes anything with the same level of anti-corrosion treatments). These parts will rust exponentially faster than the stock parts.

1.1 Any place that welding (and even drilling and bolting) took place to the factory parts greatly reduced its resistance to rust!

(Have you ever seen a completely rusted through aftermarket bumper on an otherwise clean/solid looking
Jeep/truck?)

-Brake fluid is corrosive..........so brake lines should be pretty resistant to corrosion :coffeedrink:

I had a V10 Dodge and really enjoyed it. Even though I didn't drive it much......I still drove it less because it was a v10!!! I didn't *really* care about the fuel economy....but it was still in my mind! So much so that I specifically chose not to drive it places.

For example, Denver to Vail and back is about 200 miles round trip! So about 20 gallons of fuel at $3.50ish average a gallon. $70 in fuel just to go skiing for the day:Wow1: So instead we would drive something that got only twice the mileage at 20mpg ish and cut it to $35 in fuel.


.....which for me is really saying a lot! I always buy the biggest, fastest, fuel sucking vehicles I can because I like what they offer.......but the v10 10mpg seemed to be the line for even me!

 

[ujoint]

The worst vans I see are usually from Ohio. Rust rust rust. If the brake lines need to be replaced I'd have to guess and say that the rest of it is not too good either. Have you received any pics of the undercarriage?

I agree, rent a cheap car and put your eyes on it.

 

[ujoint]

With a Quigley, be careful when estimating the cost of repairs, there are some parts such as the front rotors that either have to come from Quigley or be custom machined which always costs more on some model years. I think your year van falls into this category which means the same thing goes for unit bearings (somebody please correct me if I'm wrong). Everything situation is different but I've always been a fan of "things will cost 3x as much and take 3x as long than what you planned." More than likely it would probably be an okay rig, but I agree with tacoma; there are quite a few red flags already.

You're 100% correct. Rotors & unit bearings are proprietary to them. When we DeQuiglify and keep the existing front axle we always put it back to 8 on 170mm so the wearing parts are all over the counter from any parts store.

 

[thedjjack]

rust sucks:

Example my 1963 FC170 that lived salt free on the west coast every bolt came undone without heat, oil, swearing except on shock mount tearing it down to the frame...

My old beater 1997 Ford Escort with 5 years in Ontario salt belt...nothing ever came undone, brake lines, fuel lines, unibody ahhh...

If it needs brake lines from salt run fast as you can toward a part of your country without salt and buy a van...

 

[boardrider247]

I would pass.
Living in the rust belt I went out of my way to buy a van that came from out of state.
If this is a van you plan to keep for a few years avoid envy thing from the northeast or Midwest.

 

[Jb1rd]

Thank you guys I appreciate all the feed back and also being talked off the ledge, sometimes I jump in a little too quickly!!! So the search continues!!! Thrill of the hunt I guess and now I wont keep thinking what if "it was the one the that got away". Also have to remind myself that there a lot of options out there, need to expand my horizons!!! Again thank you!!

 

[Cole]

Just need to convert the Sprinter to 4x4:victory: