Got it back today!!! Yay!! The end price ended up only being like 4/7th of what I thought it was going to be, and so I think all in all, knowing the quality of the parts and work that was done, a great deal was had here. I got it all registered up, brought it home and went for a drive! There are still some little jobs that have to be done to it that I'm going to take care of. It desperately needs an oil change, and I have the correct filter for it. Ian suggested I use 15w30, non synthetic for changing the oil, he also said I don't need to put it up on jack stands or anything. I have read that if you drive the passenger side up onto a curb and put on the parking brake, that is good enough to put the oil drain plug at the correct angle for it to drain out. Do you guys know what size wrench/socket that would need. He suggested that the two things I need to buy next are a good set of wrenches and a ratchet set, along with a collapsible proper jack and a piece of wood as the bottle jacks suck fairly intensely. I also need to replace the plugs but the wires are good he Built me a set of 8mm wires which are on right now. He said I could just get the good ole champion bronze. For those is it just a deep ratchet to get them out? Also, about the gap, does one have to set/check this gap? How does one do this without the tool?
Also, (sorry for so many questions!!) what does one do with the dirty oil that you get out of the truck? Can't just throw it away I know. Do you guys just keep it? Ill check the RAVE or the shop manual for the proper procedure for the oil change and plug swaps as well, as they can hopefully help me out!
Thanks guys!
Ps. Andrew I saw you defender today, looks sweet! And just about as basic as I thought it would. haha
Definitely follow Chris Snell's advice on filling the oil filter, lubricating the gasket with oil, etc. I completely for got that stuff. Here is a good discussion on oil filters that you might like reading...
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters/index.html Chris Snell likes the LR filters, which I believe are the same as Napa Gold. I always used the K&N 3001 or Mobil 1 301 long filters. That's just me. Read the article and use what you like.
Regarding the oil, go to the discoweb.org bulletin boards, go to the Discovery section and do a search for either oils, high temperature high sheer, and or Chris St-Louis (member's name is really Chris Schaeffer). He did an excellent write up on the appropriate oil to use in the buick derived LR V8s. They're flat tappet engines and they require (if my memory serves me correctly) an oil with a HTHS rating of 3.5. The threads (I think there are 2 or 3 of them) explain how to find the information and one of them, at least, provides a good list of suggested oils. Probably the least expensive quality oil suggested that meets that rating is Rotella 15w40. You can also get in to the synthetics, but you're on a budget so stick with the basics for now. Read those threads! It's good information. *Note there is a thread on this forum regarding tappet failure. I think I mentioned the dweb thread there too.
Regarding plugs, a well respected independent Land Rover mechanic in Springfield, MA, USA recommends Champion RNY12CC (I think that's the correct product #). Originally LR called for Champion RNY11 plugs. The 12s supposedly burn hotter and help reduce the carbon build up in teh valves, which these engines are prone to do. (Its not a matter of will it happen, it is a matter of when). I believe the website is
www.robisonservice.com. Then in the menu, look for LR buying advice. Select the series 1 discovery and read. He also provides a good maintenance schedule. (Note, he recommends the Mobile 1 0w40 synthetic oil. That is an excellent recommendation, but it is probably too costly for you. Stick with the Rotella 15w40 for now.)
Back to plugs, don't get crazy and buy platinum plugs and crap. Just get the basic ones I listed above. Dweb has several threads about plugs and consequences of using the wrong kind. You shouldnt have to change the gap. It doesnt hurt to buy a spark plug gap tool. I believe your owners manual will tell you the appropriate gap to use. But again, you shouldnt have to reset it.
If I remember correctly, the oil drainplug is 1/2" socket. Also, you need to order the copper crush washers from one of the LR parts houses. Be sure you get the Disco 1 copper crush washers, not the Disco 11 (those are smaller, due to different drain plug). You can order 10 at a time for like 10-12 bucks. You replace them each time you remove the oil drain plug.
Used oil goes to your local auto parts store that recycles oil. The national chains all do this, and will take your used oil if you buy your oil from them. By the way, regarding the oil change, you're going to make a big damn mess the first few times you change your oil (at least I did). The oil shoots out the side of the sump pan. Get a large piece of cardboard or something similar to put underneath your truck. I always wore those thick dishwashing gloves or chemical gloves because I usually make a mess.
Regarding the spark plug socket wrench, your auto parts store will help you with that when you get your plugs. You'll need a socket extension. Becareful that you dont over torque your plugs when you put them in. Basically, hand tighten until they wont turn, then 1/4 turn with the ratchet.
Spark plug wires, I've always used Magnacor 8mm wires. They seem to be a popular choice. Just remember, change one wire at a time.
Dont yank all 8 off because then you wont know which sparkplug connects to which terminal on the coil. Just pull one wire off both the plug and the coil, match it up to the new set of wires, then install the new wire. Do that 8x's. Use the plastic wire looms in the engine bay to secure the wires, otherwise they may touch hot metal and burn up. Buy the die electric grease for the plugs.
You dont need to tilt your rover when you change the oil. You can get a good set of ramps fairly inexpensively from Autozone, OReilleys, Advance, Napa, or your favorite local autoparts store (I dont know what is in Canada). Otherwise if you have to use a jack, then yeah, you'll want to jack the passenger side up. Speaking of jacks, (if you havent already) get a good 4 ton or greater bottle jack. Probably $30USD. Also get at least two jack stands, minimum 2 ton load each.
Changing plugs and oil is no more difficult than opening a Coke bottle. It's not complicated. Have fun!
I know it's in Kitchener, but it's always good to check Princess Auto's sales ( http://www.princessauto.com/pal/currentSaleView.jsp ) to see if they have anything you need.
